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Fred's 150 gal build.

57K views 407 replies 34 participants last post by  Brutality 
#1 · (Edited)
I am Very Excited!!:banana: I just bought a 150 gallon glass tank for the build from craiglist and got a pretty good deal. The tank is 72L X 18D X 28 T. I have two 250W MH and going to be looking for two t-5ho for blue artinic. I am also looking for a 40-55 gal sump and looking for input on the correct size I have never had a tank this big. :read:

I have made some drawings from the google site that MeuserReef recomended. I will try to post though this thread along with some pics. :arg:

I look forward to everybody input and help though the build this is a great place to sound ideas so please put in you .02:idea:

I hope you tag along and I will try to take lots of pics and posts along the way. :D

Fred:beer:
 

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#4 ·
It's all in how you build it and design the return plumbing ;)

Visit my build thread, It will show you everything that is need to build your own sump out of one.. you can find the link in my signature, start on page 3 to get right down to the nitty gritty
 
#5 ·


I'd only use one support in the middle of the tank instead of 2, use four doors instead. It will make your life ALOT easier. Also, make sure that you build a door in the end of the stand I cannot emphasize how much easier it will be on you to install and remove the sump for a thorough cleaning/modification in the future ;)
 
#6 ·
i will take that under advisment but i'm worried about the support aspect and the weight of the tank maybe I will make one side removeable.
 
#8 ·
Could somebody please tell me how to upload the picture into the post like tony did instead of as an attachment thumbnail. I think the Thread is easyer to follow this way.
 
#9 ·
You have to have 20 posts to use the feature... so start posting to build up that thread count :)

But the instructions are basically, Upload the photo to you photoalbumn here on TRT (you can create one in your user profile) or use a site like photobucket (i don't like) or picturetrail (what i use). When you upload the picture you can then right click on the image where ever it is loaded and select "copy link location" if you are using Firefox, or select properties and highlight the address of the image and copy it if you are using IE.

Then at the top of the reply box you will see this image :
click on that image and paste the address of the picture you are trying to insert into the box (make sure you delete the "http://" that is in the box when you open it).

HTH
 
#10 ·
Pics and Progress

Ok I have some Pics and Some progress. There was some modification to the structure of the stand, a special thanks goes out to Fat Tony for pointing these things out. :beer: I will post some of the Drawings they are not all computer most were hand done and when I have time I will try to put them into the computer. Lets see if I can add some pics not as attachments.



This is the Tank it has not been cleaned yet. That is next.



Ok here is the stand I have Caulked and Varnished the Plywood top and the Tray in the Bottom. Hopefully with another coat od varnish it will be water tight and hold about 12 gallons as an emegerncy spill catch before it hits the floor. :doh:



Here is one of the cartoons (plans) for the exterior face of the stand. I will put them on the computer if I have time later. :eek:
 
#11 ·
Looks like a great start. A few coats of varnish will work for watertighness, especially if you caulk the seams after. I would have went with a gloss white with caulked seams (it helps hide some salt creep and makes the sump area brighter). In your canopy, definitely go with white gloss, it dries faster and is pretty much waterproof and very cleanable. It will last you a long time, but don't skimp on a good primer :)
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the Input. I read through your Build Thread, Great Build, Very Nice tank. :wavey: I had my engineer Friend look at the stand he said I'm good on the buidl so far. I want to keep all the doors even when I put the Finish on the Tank so I will use a Magnet on a center removable piece for cleaning and removal and modification of the sump. :idea:

I am a little concerned about building and drilling the tank for the over flow. I will drill one end of the tank toward the top and build a durso overflow. I want to make sure the water level stays above the top of the securing rim around the top of the tank. I guess i'll figure it out.

Also I am going to goto hd tomm. and get some white paint for the entire stand but i knew the varnish would seal the wood and hold the water. I think it will be good for about 15 gal.:funny:
 
#13 · (Edited)
:)

Just keep the build thread moving ;)

If possible I would make the whole front skin of the stand removable... you will thank me later on this. Magnets will hold it on just fine, just make sure to get some of the epoxy covered true earth magnets, they are strong SOB's
 
#15 ·
The Tank to Sump Ratio

I am haveing a hard time determining what size sump to intall :(. I am limited to 12" wide and about 20 inches tall :eek:. I am largely concerned that in the event of a power failure the tank will over flow :doh:. which I guess I will control with the height of the Durso when I build them. I think I'm going to go with a 40 gallon sump. I will have some pics later but did a test on the seals of the stand and it held water no problem. :banana:

Please weigh in on the tank to sump ratio.:beer:
 
#16 ·
There is no real ratio... the basic rule of thumb is...as big as you can fit ;). I like my sumps longer and shallower so that it is easier to work in (get the skimmer in and out, etc).

But you need to have about 3-5 gallons of room in case of a power failure. I limit the amount of water that returns to my sump via leaving the return line about a third of the way above the surface of the water. I don't have to worry about back siphoning from a clogged anti siphon hole that way.
 
#17 ·
Stand and Sump

OK the Stand is seal and painted. That thing took much more paint than I anticipated but came out good in the end. also before painting I added another coat of varnish to sure up any potential leaks.

For the Sump I decided to go with a 40 gallon. this will be divided into three stages. right now I plan to out a refuge at the top of the tank but we will see. I'll post some plumbing diagrams later.



Here is the stand and the emergency hold, holding water. I added an additional coat of varnish after the test even though is was a success.



Here is the stand after paint (please remember this is only the inside) still drying .



Here you can see the joints sealed.



The one car garage which certainly will not fit any type of car, but works well for my building area.



The beginning stages of the Sump. (im currently waiting for the silicone to dry to add the remainer of the panels.


Thanks for looking, thats all for now. .
:beer:
 
#18 ·
Just a quick update. I leak tested the sump and found two small leaks in the internal dividers those dryed over night.

Using the left over acrylic I made a 5 gallon refugium (i'm not sure if this will be large enough? I'll finish that today when I get home and take some Pics.
 
#19 ·
Plumbing

Man Plumbing is expensive, However Lowes has true union ball valves for 7.95.

for the Returns I decided to go with the three pipe Durso for the returns built form 1" thin wall PVC. all of the bulk heads used for the over floww and the supply top the pumps will be 1" slip to slip. Currently I am going to use a genx 40 for the return pump and will have about 5' of head pressure using a flexable 1" pvc and have 1 90 degree turn. I am wondering if this pump will be big enough? Thoughts anybody. According to the reef calulator I am good.

the Diagram for the sump is really bad and I have not had time this week to mess with the program.

my glass drills came today however my dad is trying to talk me into taking the tank to a glass shop and have them drill it. Thoughts on this?

any way this week end I would like to get the Tank drilled the return built the equipment set to account for the real-estate in the cabinet/stand. It seems like this is going very slow. no new pics but the sump passed the leak test. I also have to build a 6 inch stand for the skimmer to sit in the sump at the right level.
 
#20 · (Edited)
for the Returns I decided to go with the three pipe Durso for the returns built form 1" thin wall PVC. all of the bulk heads used for the over floww and the supply top the pumps will be 1" slip to slip. Currently I am going to use a genx 40 for the return pump and will have about 5' of head pressure using a flexable 1" pvc and have 1 90 degree turn. I am wondering if this pump will be big enough? Thoughts anybody. According to the reef calulator I am good.
Confused by your terms here. A durso is a type of drain plumbing, not used for the returns. If you are planning on using just bulkheads for drains, I would reconsider. You will get very little surface skimming using just a bulkhead through the glass for a drain. Plus, the amount of drain flow is significantly reduced when using a bulkhead drain.

I would look at a Glass-holes style of overflow kit or maybe a coast to coast overflow. For the return plumbing, I would come up and over the back. No need to drill more holes for the returns.
 
#21 ·
#23 ·
Yes but as the old saying goes if mama aint happy anit nobody happy and she has already commented on the noise of the water going into the sump from my old 60 gal tank.
 
#25 ·
Pumps?

I touched on this a little ealier maybe the post was long winded. anyway I am planning on running a Gen-x4 on the 150 gal MT with a 40 Sump. The pump will have about 5' of head pressure and one 90 degree turn then split to a Y in the tank. is this good enough or do I have to get a Bigger Pump?

Gen x-4 is rated for about 1200 gph:help:
 
#26 ·
Drillin'

Ok I could not wait to get home today. It was a long week and I wanted to get the tank on the stand.

Bofore the tank went on the stand it had to be drilled with the sump. Pics to follow.

I have most of the Plumbing parts but all of my bulkheads are between aqua cave and hollywood fl. :doh: they will not be here until next week.
ok enough delay here are the pics. (please don't give me the squirle):beer:

Fred

Please chime in with your thoughts comments and smart retorts.:banana:



The plummin parts.



The sump after drillin.



The Very Scary first hole in the display tank.



3 down one to go.



haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
 
#27 ·
The Stand

I had this on the other post and was told I was limited to ten pics so here are some more. :banana:



The stand in it's tenative location.



Some Plumbing in it's tentive location (i'm taking sugestions)



The Hole for the plumbing and electrical.

Please post your thoughts and comments.

Fred:read:
 
#28 ·
Since you sealed the bottom of your stand, you won't want to mount your pumps or chiller like that. This is the one downside to sealing the stand. Everything electrical or non waterproof must be mounted above the potential water level inside the stand in case a flood occurs.
 
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