Fred's 150 gal build.

[Fat Tony]

There is no real ratio... the basic rule of thumb is...as big as you can fit . I like my sumps longer and shallower so that it is easier to work in (get the skimmer in and out, etc).

But you need to have about 3-5 gallons of room in case of a power failure. I limit the amount of water that returns to my sump via leaving the return line about a third of the way above the surface of the water. I don't have to worry about back siphoning from a clogged anti siphon hole that way.

[fchidsey]

OK the Stand is seal and painted. That thing took much more paint than I anticipated but came out good in the end. also before painting I added another coat of varnish to sure up any potential leaks.

For the Sump I decided to go with a 40 gallon. this will be divided into three stages. right now I plan to out a refuge at the top of the tank but we will see. I'll post some plumbing diagrams later.



Here is the stand and the emergency hold, holding water. I added an additional coat of varnish after the test even though is was a success.



Here is the stand after paint (please remember this is only the inside) still drying .



Here you can see the joints sealed.





The one car garage which certainly will not fit any type of car, but works well for my building area.



The beginning stages of the Sump. (im currently waiting for the silicone to dry to add the remainer of the panels.


Thanks for looking, thats all for now. .

[fchidsey]

Just a quick update. I leak tested the sump and found two small leaks in the internal dividers those dryed over night.

Using the left over acrylic I made a 5 gallon refugium (i'm not sure if this will be large enough? I'll finish that today when I get home and take some Pics.

[fchidsey]

Man Plumbing is expensive, However Lowes has true union ball valves for 7.95.

for the Returns I decided to go with the three pipe Durso for the returns built form 1" thin wall PVC. all of the bulk heads used for the over floww and the supply top the pumps will be 1" slip to slip. Currently I am going to use a genx 40 for the return pump and will have about 5' of head pressure using a flexable 1" pvc and have 1 90 degree turn. I am wondering if this pump will be big enough? Thoughts anybody. According to the reef calulator I am good.

the Diagram for the sump is really bad and I have not had time this week to mess with the program.

my glass drills came today however my dad is trying to talk me into taking the tank to a glass shop and have them drill it. Thoughts on this?

any way this week end I would like to get the Tank drilled the return built the equipment set to account for the real-estate in the cabinet/stand. It seems like this is going very slow. no new pics but the sump passed the leak test. I also have to build a 6 inch stand for the skimmer to sit in the sump at the right level.

[Jadinop]

Originally Posted by fchidsey

for the Returns I decided to go with the three pipe Durso for the returns built form 1" thin wall PVC. all of the bulk heads used for the over floww and the supply top the pumps will be 1" slip to slip. Currently I am going to use a genx 40 for the return pump and will have about 5' of head pressure using a flexable 1" pvc and have 1 90 degree turn. I am wondering if this pump will be big enough? Thoughts anybody. According to the reef calulator I am good.

Confused by your terms here. A durso is a type of drain plumbing, not used for the returns. If you are planning on using just bulkheads for drains, I would reconsider. You will get very little surface skimming using just a bulkhead through the glass for a drain. Plus, the amount of drain flow is significantly reduced when using a bulkhead drain.

I would look at a Glass-holes style of overflow kit or maybe a coast to coast overflow. For the return plumbing, I would come up and over the back. No need to drill more holes for the returns.

[fchidsey]

No I will be using an over flow just following the durso system to keep the "drain" quite. There will be an 18" overflow at the end of the tank with the cabinet around it. this will "drain" into three 1" bulk heads as per the durso system.

here is the link. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

[bcrum51]

I clicked the link and it looks like a lot of work to get water into the sump but thats just my opinion

[fchidsey]

Yes but as the old saying goes if mama aint happy anit nobody happy and she has already commented on the noise of the water going into the sump from my old 60 gal tank.

[Jadinop]

Originally Posted by fchidsey

No I will be using an over flow just following the durso system to keep the "drain" quite. There will be an 18" overflow at the end of the tank with the cabinet around it. this will "drain" into three 1" bulk heads as per the durso system.

here is the link. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

Glad to hear that. It's a nice way to go.

[fchidsey]

I touched on this a little ealier maybe the post was long winded. anyway I am planning on running a Gen-x4 on the 150 gal MT with a 40 Sump. The pump will have about 5' of head pressure and one 90 degree turn then split to a Y in the tank. is this good enough or do I have to get a Bigger Pump?

Gen x-4 is rated for about 1200 gph

[fchidsey]

Ok I could not wait to get home today. It was a long week and I wanted to get the tank on the stand.

Bofore the tank went on the stand it had to be drilled with the sump. Pics to follow.

I have most of the Plumbing parts but all of my bulkheads are between aqua cave and hollywood fl. they will not be here until next week.
ok enough delay here are the pics. (please don't give me the squirle)

Fred

Please chime in with your thoughts comments and smart retorts.



The plummin parts.



The sump after drillin.



The Very Scary first hole in the display tank.




3 down one to go.



haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

[fchidsey]

I had this on the other post and was told I was limited to ten pics so here are some more.



The stand in it's tenative location.



Some Plumbing in it's tentive location (i'm taking sugestions)




The Hole for the plumbing and electrical.

Please post your thoughts and comments.

Fred

[Jadinop]

Since you sealed the bottom of your stand, you won't want to mount your pumps or chiller like that. This is the one downside to sealing the stand. Everything electrical or non waterproof must be mounted above the potential water level inside the stand in case a flood occurs.

[Loverotties]

I would do that anyway(even if it's not waterproof water can stay in there long enogh to do damage!

[fchidsey]

Ya I'm Going to putting everything on 2x4's that go across the stand braces