Coat to Coast CLS Inlet

[russbriscoe]

I have an AG 120. It has the overflows in the two back corners. Can I add a Coast to Coast CLS inlet to it?

How would I attach the Acrylic to the back of the tank?

How big should it be?

What size bulkheads/Inlets?

[VWD]

What do You mean add acrylic to the back? You want to replace the back with it or am I missing something here.

[russbriscoe]

Here is a drawing Geoff made. It has an inlet for a CLS accross the top.


Here is the link to the thread.
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27488

[VWD]

You just need silicone to attact it to the back, the way they do the cornner overflows. That is a good idea and way to do it ,

[VWD]

Are You going to drill the tank?

[Doug1]

Using a coast to coast overflow for the closed loop seem to be over thinking the problem, I would think the CtC would be bettter for a sump drain, pulling lots of surface area, with Ctc you are going to have a water pouring into it, ie if you CLS pumps are 1000gph thats 2000 thats going to flow into the closed loop. Unless you have a lower area in the overflow how will you keep the system wet without sucking air? I see more potential noise and other issues, if it gulps air it will spit back bubbles

Better to drill a larger bulkhead and use a strainer on it, it make a eegcrate cage to keep wayward critters out
having 2 bulkheads plumbed to the intake side is a good bet as well,
Just things to think about

[russbriscoe]

Do you think that the CLS is overkill? I would use a TUNZE but dont like things hanging on the sides of the tank. can you use the Tunze Rock if you have sand?

Anyone else care to chime in?

[theplatypus]

Interesting idea.

[Geoff]

obviously i like the idea of a C-C overflow. i am planning one now for the rebuild of my tank. Doug has valid pionts, but i think they can worked around fairly easily. the object is not to have the C-C overflow act like a true overflow. if you look really close to the drawing above you will notice that i drew the weirs for the C-C overflow longer than the weirs for the true overflow. this accomplishes two thigs, one it keeps the CLS from burning up if for some reason the true overflow system were to fail, and second it allows a significant more water into the C-C area. if you do find that you are getting air suckage because the water level in the C-C is going down there is no reason why you can not cover the entire C-C in weirs. it is a CLS so flood control is not a concern.

G~

[yardboy]

I'm using the exact one that Geoff drew up and it works great. I've rarely gotten microbubbles (only once, when the drain on one side got some buildup that restricted flow, a minor maintenance problem) and the overflows are great places for placing frags. There are other ways to do it but this works great. Thanks Geoff!!!

[Geoff]

G~

[russbriscoe]

Oh, The flow... I am done with my stand and now need to nail down how i will design the flow. Do you think if i created a box between the two overflows on my 120 it will be enough water? the box will be about a 13x5x5. Also, could i get away with one hole or do i need two? can i drill that close together?

[russbriscoe]

Here is the link to my sand

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=64571

[Geoff]

according to the calculator 15" will only handle about 900gph. if build to normal overflow specs than you would need to keep to a pump this size or smaller. if you make the wiers longer than you can get more flow out of it.

on Roger's the overflows are closer to 24" long.

G~

[russbriscoe]

Ther problem with my tank is that the overflows are not in the corners. This means I have about 6" on each side of the tank that is not being used. What if i make it longer? Or, What do you think about placing a tall box with with strips of acrylic for the top, wich will create a weir, on the bottom of the tank. Will the weir clog and be impossible to clean with time?