Coast to coast overflows

[DarthOcellaris]

I've tried searching this site but the term 'coast' is very broad around here and I really can't find what I'm looking for very easily.

I'd like to learn more about this overflow. How is it built, can it be bought retail? I'm looking at buying an acrylic tank and asked the manufacturer about this overflow but was asked to provide my own diagrams ...Thats where I need help LOL

Pics, links, anything is useful

[Danyen]

As far as I know, Coast to coast just refers to an overflow that runs the entire length of the tank, thereby surface skimming the entire lenght. They are supposed to be quieter and very efficient.... AFAIK

[Danyen]

and what I know isn't much

[DarthOcellaris]

I've read bits and pieces about them and that's one thing I've read...hence the name

They aren't the height of the tank though, are they? Arent they built about 6 inches high?

[DarthOcellaris]

is this basically what I need to do?
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1193819

[ILLBKING]

They can be built inside the tank alot easier. Look at Geoffs build he has one!

[Fly Guy]

you wont find a coast to coast set up in any factory made set up that I am aware.

I designed mine myself and had envision acrylics build the tank for me.

glass will be even more tricky becasue even some companies that will build custom tanks, dont want anything to do with it.

as well, you have two different kinds....external and internal. external is by far the best, but adds other space and plumbing issues


So it is either a custom order or a a DIY thing. the back wall needs cut down to do it externally. its much easier done with an acrylic tank than a glass one.

to be honest, the surface skimming the entire length of the tank is nto the best thing about my external coast to coast. Although a benefit no doubt, the best thing about it is nothing in the tank visible but reef. Nothing to disturb flow, nothing int he way, nor nothing you have to look at.

[OIIIIIO]

They can be the entire height, but don't have to be. They really only have to be high enough to fit the bulkhead in. I built my own for a 40g that I had out of acrylic and "bolted" it to the back with the bulkheads. Cost me about $50 or so I guess for black walls and a clear bottom for all the parts. The idea behind it is simple. It skims off the thinnest possible layer over a larger area and allows for higher flow rates to the sump. Mine had a flowrate of 300gph over the 36” wall and was absolutely quiet. They are best made without teeth in the overflow. To prevent fish and critters from taking a sump ride, use some gutter mesh on the inside wall of the overflow. An even better idea would be to zip-tie the mesh to a piece of egg crate that fits into the overflow.

Here's some good info on the guard:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/gt/index.php

[DarthOcellaris]

Originally Posted by ILLBKING

They can be built inside the tank alot easier. Look at Geoffs build he has one!

Thanks I will read that tonight

[DarthOcellaris]

Originally Posted by Fly Guy

you wont find a coast to coast set up in any factory made set up that I am aware.

I designed mine myself and had envision acrylics build the tank for me.

glass will be even more tricky becasue even some companies that will build custom tanks, dont want anything to do with it.

as well, you have two different kinds....external and internal. external is by far the best, but adds other space and plumbing issues


So it is either a custom order or a a DIY thing. the back wall needs cut down to do it externally. its much easier done with an acrylic tank than a glass one.

to be honest, the surface skimming the entire length of the tank is nto the best thing about my external coast to coast. Although a benefit no doubt, the best thing about it is nothing in the tank visible but reef. Nothing to disturb flow, nothing int he way, nor nothing you have to look at.

You're the one who's inspiring me on this Fly

I just cant find a lot of pics or info cause the term is so broad I guess LOL

I like the external idea for all the reasons you mentioned I also heard that it's pretty quite to, right? Is that because of the larger sheets of water rolling over the side instead of being broken up by teeth and crashing over the side?

Am I way off here?

[Fly Guy]

Originally Posted by OIIIIIO

They can be the entire height, but don't have to be. They really only have to be high enough to fit the bulkhead in. I built my own for a 40g that I had out of acrylic and "bolted" it to the back with the bulkheads. Cost me about $50 or so I guess for black walls and a clear bottom for all the parts. The idea behind it is simple. It skims off the thinnest possible layer over a larger area and allows for higher flow rates to the sump. Mine had a flowrate of 300gph over the 36” wall and was absolutely quiet. They are best made without teeth in the overflow. To prevent fish and critters from taking a sump ride, use some gutter mesh on the inside wall of the overflow. An even better idea would be to zip-tie the mesh to a piece of egg crate that fits into the overflow.

Here's some good info on the guard:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/gt/index.php

i dont agree. they are best made with a shallow horizontal slot small enough that your critterc cant fit through. One super long horiontal tooth if you will. Especially if you think you are using the coast to coast for surface skimming improvement alone. If so, then by using teeth you are defeating this purpose to some extent as teeth are restrictive to true surface skimming.

I do agree that making them the entire height of the tank is not only unecessary, but would be a serious PITA to try to intsall a cls on, especially a very complex one. Although, they DO need to be much deeper than just enough to hold a bulkhead. they need to be deep enouogh that you can accomplish two things at once. namely, you need to fit your method of water silencing in. whether it be a durso, herbie style, hoffle gurglebuster style(my preferred method) or stockman...whatever.....AND at the same time still have water falling into the box.

[DarthOcellaris]

Originally Posted by OIIIIIO

They can be the entire height, but don't have to be. They really only have to be high enough to fit the bulkhead in. I built my own for a 40g that I had out of acrylic and "bolted" it to the back with the bulkheads. Cost me about $50 or so I guess for black walls and a clear bottom for all the parts. The idea behind it is simple. It skims off the thinnest possible layer over a larger area and allows for higher flow rates to the sump. Mine had a flowrate of 300gph over the 36” wall and was absolutely quiet. They are best made without teeth in the overflow. To prevent fish and critters from taking a sump ride, use some gutter mesh on the inside wall of the overflow. An even better idea would be to zip-tie the mesh to a piece of egg crate that fits into the overflow.

Here's some good info on the guard:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/gt/index.php

I like that mesh idea. I was wondering how to strain things out withoug slowing down the flow

I really like that

[DarthOcellaris]

Originally Posted by Fly Guy

i dont agree. they are best made with a shallow horizontal slot. especially if you think you are using the coast to coast for surface skimming improvement alone. If so, then by using teeth you are defeating this purpose to some extent as teeth are restrictive to true surface skimming.

I do agree that making them the entire height of the tank is not only unecessary, but would be a serious PITA to try to intsall a cls on, especially a very complex one. Although, they DO need to be much deeper than just enough to hold a bulkhead. they need to be deep enouogh that you can accomplish two things at once. namely, you need to fit your method of water silencing in. whether it be a durso, herbie style, hoffle gurglebuster style(my preferred method) or stockman...whatever.....AND at the same time still have water falling into the box.

So the height can be as shallow as the internal mechanics allow? How tall is yours? I plan to pop a lot of holes, like 6 at least, in the back ( quite possibly 1.5 inches ) for a cls.

[Fly Guy]

Originally Posted by DarthOcellaris

So the height can be as shallow as the internal mechanics allow? How tall is yours? I plan to pop a lot of holes, like 6 at least, in the back ( quite possibly 1.5 inches ) for a cls.

mine is 5". next one will be 6 or 7".

I had to do some creative things with cutting pvc fittings up and changing the standard gurglebuster configuration to fit it in there and still get the water to drop, but just barely drop enough to still be skimming

youve seen this......but you can see how big the C-C is...as well as see what i had to do with a coup[le of the cls outlets.

you could actually go right through the box if you had to, but it would of course take two bulkheads and be a pita

[Fly Guy]

OIIIIIO........pulling foot out of mouth on the teeth thing to some extent

....i misread your post to say teeth are the best