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| General Reef Discussion In this forum we discuss issues related to keeping marine and reef aquariums in a friendly flame-free environment. |
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01-30-2008, 02:23 PM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Junk, CO
Posts: 454
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building a tank?
I dunno, I had an idea for a tank, but would have to build it to get it. I was wondering if anyone had any experience making them?
I was thinking about trying the plywood/glass method since it looks like it'd be sturdy, but does the cost of the stuff to seal it make the project more expensive than making(lol, like I could cut glass >_>) one out of cut glass?
I'll have more questions once I hear an answer for this 
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01-30-2008, 04:10 PM
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#2
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilraen Took
I dunno, I had an idea for a tank, but would have to build it to get it. I was wondering if anyone had any experience making them?
I was thinking about trying the plywood/glass method since it looks like it'd be sturdy, but does the cost of the stuff to seal it make the project more expensive than making(lol, like I could cut glass >_>) one out of cut glass?
I'll have more questions once I hear an answer for this 
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What size/shape is it? I have looked into building my own and I figured out that even with the shape I would want (an L shape) that I would still be cheaper/safer in the end having it built rather than trying to build it myself. It wasn't the cost of the sealant (referred to here as sillycone), but rather the cost of the glass/acrylic and then the chance that it leaks.
If it is just a "standard" shape with plywood walls, the only part of it that would have to be "strong" is the viewing face. The rest of it can simply be 1/8" plexiglass as it's only purpose is to seal the plywood from the water.
What the sealant would cost you depends on what size/shape you are wanting to build.
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01-30-2008, 04:52 PM
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#3
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Stinky Slimey FEESH
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 2,187
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I've never built one myself, but there are tons of DIYers here on this forum. Many folks (Wiskey, tdwyatt, etc.) have built their own tanks. . . you might try searching the forums. Bet you can find a lot of information and good advice!
HHC
__________________
You can't kill a fish born to hang.....
135-gal Oceanic reef, MH, PC, Lunar
12-gal Nanocube
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01-30-2008, 06:22 PM
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#4
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Junk, CO
Posts: 454
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Oops, I was thinking about the stuff to make the plywood waterproof. I thought the silicone was just for the corners to make sure water didn't leak out from those?
I can't draw it out well, but my plan was basically to make a 20-24X24X12" tank so it would be good to be viewed from the front as a look backwards into the reef/top down sort of thing. Hm. kinda a path through the rocks sort of thing? Ach. Some shorter-taller rockwork starting in the front corners with maybe a bit in the path in the center. I did a cruddy pic on paint to TRY to illustrate. . . Top down is the big one, and the dark yellow in the small one is supposed to be the taller stuff in the back.  Obviously not to any sort of scale.
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01-30-2008, 07:05 PM
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#5
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Non-Hypocritical

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hillbillyville Alabama
Posts: 8,064
Reviews: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilraen Took
Oops, I was thinking about the stuff to make the plywood waterproof. I thought the silicone was just for the corners to make sure water didn't leak out from those?
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Yes, the only purpose the silicone serves is to seal the corners. The plywood can be covered with 1/8" plate glass. For some reason, I was thinking about something a lot larger than what you are talking about.
More on the glass below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilraen Took
I can't draw it out well, but my plan was basically to make a 20-24X24X12" tank so it would be good to be viewed from the front as a look backwards into the reef/top down sort of thing. Hm. kinda a path through the rocks sort of thing? Ach. Some shorter-taller rockwork starting in the front corners with maybe a bit in the path in the center. I did a cruddy pic on paint to TRY to illustrate. . . Top down is the big one, and the dark yellow in the small one is supposed to be the taller stuff in the back. Obviously not to any sort of scale.
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That "look" is almost exactly the look I want. I read a thread a few days ago that had a very similar look to it but it was in a 500 gallon tank. Had a valley through the middle with a canyon wall effect from the rocks. I can't find the link now, it was in a thread about a six foot worm though.
The only reason I mentioned plain plexiglass (that tims refers to as flexi-glass) is the ease of cutting it to the size you need. If you get glass cut, and it is 1/8" off, then it isn't as easy to take that 1/8" off as it is with plexi-glass. You don't need it for strength, just water-proofing. The other advantage is that if you want in tank overflows (instead of over the back), then the plexi-glass is a lot easier to drill than glass is.
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01-30-2008, 11:42 PM
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#8
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This Space For Rent!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,209
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This won't help you build it...but this pic looks a lot like what you show in your diagram...not sure where I got it...saw it someplace recently (could have been on TRT...lol).

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01-30-2008, 11:44 PM
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#9
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Shark
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pismo Beach, CA
Posts: 2,371
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thats one of the nicest tanks. Look for Steve Weasts tank before it got destroyed (not sure if its up again).
__________________
115g 36x36x20 cube (2) Tunze 6080s Warner Marine AS200 Skimmer Radium 400w SE 20k W/ 400w Ice Cap ballast
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01-30-2008, 11:48 PM
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#10
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Shark
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pismo Beach, CA
Posts: 2,371
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__________________
115g 36x36x20 cube (2) Tunze 6080s Warner Marine AS200 Skimmer Radium 400w SE 20k W/ 400w Ice Cap ballast
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01-31-2008, 12:44 AM
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#11
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Drain Bamaged
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corona, CA USA
Posts: 729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jflip2002
thats one of the nicest tanks. Look for Steve Weasts tank before it got destroyed (not sure if its up again).
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how did it get destroyed?
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01-31-2008, 12:46 AM
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#12
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Shark
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pismo Beach, CA
Posts: 2,371
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I wanna say it started to flood, and he panicked. so he put regular tap water in the tank IIRC. not 100% though.
__________________
115g 36x36x20 cube (2) Tunze 6080s Warner Marine AS200 Skimmer Radium 400w SE 20k W/ 400w Ice Cap ballast
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01-31-2008, 01:43 AM
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#13
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Drain Bamaged
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corona, CA USA
Posts: 729
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Man that is horrible, that system was amazing.
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01-31-2008, 01:51 AM
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#14
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Junk, CO
Posts: 454
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Yup  Similar to that only smaller!
I could have sworn I'd read someplace about getting some sort of commercial sealant for the wood part of it and not just covering it up with glass of some sort. I just can't seem to remember what it was. Or where it was. Any ideas? And I think "my" original one was in the zoa forum showing off  Though his was made to only be shown from the top. I was hoping on something that would look good from one side and the top.
The tank isn't going to have much in it, so I figured I can skip the drilling etc, for the most part. The only thing I really want is to add a section to the very back of the tank that will let me put my chaeto in it to get it out of the main tank. And I figure that I can just have a bit of an extension on the back with some sort of way for water to flow through it. Though I'll definitely need help with designing that part.
All the livestock I really want is to be able to have my current corals and a small damsel(looking at just a tank is a bit dull sometimes. . . yet I haven't had luck keeping any fish alive in this one since I took down my 20.) Figure that this one would be around 24-29 gallons depending on if I can do it(dunno. There's something like a .00000001725439806% chance we're moving out of CO in late October/early November, so I definitely need to be moved before I set up a new tank!) and where I'd put it once I was moved. So I wouldn't really need too much in the way of extra equipment. I figure that as long as I can get enough flow and light that I shouldn't need to get a skimmer for a small fish. I mean, it'd be nearly coral only and I'd be understocked by a ways by the "1 inch per 5 gallon for small saltwater fish" "rule".
 Could I do something like that for the back? Have a fake wall with my chaeto stuffed behind it and a powerhead on one side and a smaller hole on the other? That way the powerhead could pump water through(or just stuff the powerhead in the back section and let it blow water over the rock. that'd probably be better, wouldn't it?) the back section of it over the chaeto AND keep it contained. As long as the holes don't get blocked.
And how about lighting? Currently for corals I've got a small hammer, a couple FL ricordea, a green striped mushroom, a small candy cane, a bit of GSP, a small maze brain, a TON of zoas and a montipora frag that I'm honestly amazed has lived as long as it has(fedex. . . What can I say? They had a package that had all sorts of BIG letters saying to handle with care, and what did they do when I picked it up? The guy spun it into the air in front of my face >.< Killed about half the frag because I couldn't get it back underwater for the trip home and now my hermits keep knocking it behind the rocks, so it hasn't had too much of a chance to heal well. . .) If that one lives then I'll keep it and have it at the top of the tank, if not then no huge loss, it was a freebie for ordering a certain amount when that store had a special going. I'd also like to try to have a bit of tree coral and if I've got room and find a nice one a cup coral(not totally decided that I WILL have one, just possible) or a fox. And I guess that with all of the open space I'm planning on if I can find a super nice open brain I'd consider it. I adored my last one.
I figure that having it short like I do will mean I can get away with PCs instead of needing to have T-5s or halides(which from what I've seen are a lot more expensive, right?) Or for the number of pc bulbs I'd be getting would it be cheaper to get a single halide fixture to put over the centre of it? Seems like they're a ton more expensive(firsthand anyway) and that the bulbs are really pricey too. Do they also need to be replaced once annually, or can they be left on for more time than that? Plus it seems that the only ones in the tank that would like the halides would be my montipora and possibly the zoas. Though the rest would likely like the lower intensity better.
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01-31-2008, 09:12 AM
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#15
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squid
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kosova
Posts: 3
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This is my first post. I'm planning on setting up a 20 - 40 gallon reef tank in about 8-10 months, and have been lurking for a month or so as i'm planning, but figured i'd post since i might have something to contribute to the discussion.
Quote:
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I could have sworn I'd read someplace about getting some sort of commercial sealant for the wood part of it and not just covering it up with glass of some sort. I just can't seem to remember what it was. Or where it was. Any ideas?
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if i'm remembering correctly, you'll be looking for a marine grade epoxy paint to seal the wood part of the aquarium. it's a two part mixture, and one of the parts is a hardener. mix it up and apply it. look for plywood wooden boat supply links like duckworks.com. if i remember right (and i might not be), you should be able to get enough epoxy for an aquarium that size for under $100, maybe under $50
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