building a sump

[YLChik]

howdy all. I need some help with the plans for building my sump.

here's the specs
90 gallon sump
external return pump: velocity T1 - up to 95 gallon tank
internal return pump: mag 5- up to 55 gallon frag tank

Bubble master 200 skimmer - internal does best in 10 inches of water

kent float valve for ato that will be gravity feed


3 drains from the 2 tanks - 2 *1 inch drains from the 55 and 1* 1.25 inch drain from the 95 gallon upstairs.

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I stink at all those drawing programs so words will have to do.

looking at the tank starting at the left:

comaprtment number 1- all drains will go into here with the skimmer

questions:
how tall should the glass be to divide this from the next compartment?
what should I use to determine the height of the glass?

comaprtment number 2
gate valve mode to skimmer will let water out into this compartment

do I need a bubble trap?
If so how do I determine where to put them and how high to build them
other baffels or dividers?

do I drill and use a bulkhead for the external return pump
how do I decide where to drill that hole?

where should I put the float valve?
I have seen a few sumps where the bubble trap baffels were drilled for the float valve.

should I drill the baffels, or just the right end wall where the return pumps will be?

I think that is all my questions for now

[dobejazz]

Hmm I can answer 1 question I think

My sump is drilled with a bulk head for the return pump on the opposite end from where the drain is from upstairs

[YLChik]

that does help! I was pretty sure that was the answer, but assuming in this hobby just ends up costing me money

[dobejazz]

Originally Posted by YLChik

that does help! I was pretty sure that was the answer, but assuming in this hobby just ends up costing me money

Make sure you check out the sump Sunday when you come by it may give you an idea or 2

[Wiskey]

I have one really great suggestion to help us all understand this:

Draw out your plan on a peice of paper then take a picture of it

Whiskey

[motorslave]

Bubble trap, I would say yes. Since the sump will have two tanks going through it velocity needs to be controlled. A wide sump helps but baffle spacing is important. The closer they are the faster the velocity. I suggest 2 inches of spacing between baffles and betwen the bottom and the middle baffle. This will allow slow movement and prevent bubbles from getting sucked through the baffles. I also suggest a long area from the end the tanks drop in and the end with returns. Kep the baffles closer to the return end. The long space wil allow settleing of detritus and room for stuff.
I also suggest not using the sump returns for flow. Keep the gph through the sump around what the skimmer pump pumps. Add an extra bulkhead if you can for future gizmos. Above all, keep it simple!

[frankandmaura]

Amy,
Here is mine...just for an example...

[Doug1]

Franks drawing shows it pretty well, and yes the ATO needs to feed the return portion, thats where the water level will fluctuate, because of the baffles the water level in the other chambers has to stay the same, cept during power out when the sunp has to hold whatever water in the return drains down

[YLChik]

Originally Posted by Wiskey

I have one really great suggestion to help us all understand this:

Draw out your plan on a peice of paper then take a picture of it

Whiskey

there is nothing but a rectangle to draw yet Whiskey- that's why I have all those silly questions

Originally Posted by motorslave

Bubble trap, I would say yes. Since the sump will have two tanks going through it velocity needs to be controlled. A wide sump helps but baffle spacing is important. The closer they are the faster the velocity. I suggest 2 inches of spacing between baffles and betwen the bottom and the middle baffle. This will allow slow movement and prevent bubbles from getting sucked through the baffles. I also suggest a long area from the end the tanks drop in and the end with returns. Kep the baffles closer to the return end. The long space wil allow settleing of detritus and room for stuff.
I also suggest not using the sump returns for flow. Keep the gph through the sump around what the skimmer pump pumps. Add an extra bulkhead if you can for future gizmos. Above all, keep it simple!

thanks that helps alot - My returns will only be at about 350 gph - it's a long run to the upstairs the mag 5 might push a bit more than that, but I agree with not pushing insane water through return pumps.

[crvz]

Amy,

What kind of float switch are you looking for? I use electronic switches to trigger a couple of solenoids, which then opens up flow from my RO/DI unit. But you could just as easily have it open up to a gravity fed reservoir above the sump. Then you don't have to drill any holes for a float switch. Just another option.

[YLChik]

this is the float valve i have


http://www.aloha-aquariums.com/servl...t-Valve/Detail

in case the picture doesn't come up

[frankandmaura]

That is similar to the one I have, here is the one I got (just in case you were wondering)...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Plastic-float-va...QQcmdZViewItem

[crvz]

How are you planing to use that float valve, Amy? With a small reservoir?

[YLChik]

with a medium size reservoir - i think it will hold 10-12 gallons - it's a tall wrapping paper deal -got the idea off Melve's reef- I plan to set it on the counter with the frag tank and run an ro line down to the sump and let the little float do it's thing.

[motorslave]

Frank ha a good design but I prefer the bubble trap baffles to be at the other end. This gives a longer surface run for bubbles to pop and less bubbles for the baffles to have to deal with. Also allows more room for low velocity which in turn allows more settling of junk. If you want a place to put a bag o carbon you can do it in between the baffles. This is of course a personal preference.