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| General Reef Discussion In this forum we discuss issues related to keeping marine and reef aquariums in a friendly flame-free environment. |
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02-05-2007, 05:22 PM
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#1
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Build Thread for mcliffy2 and stace29's 118g
I've decided to start a single thread, which will hopefully make it easier for those graciously responding to my multiple questions. I'll combine from the previous threads:
http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94048
and http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93553
We'll update periodically w/ pics and I'm sure have a ton of questions. Right now as we've purchased the sump (see first post above), we are looking for help on the following questions:
1. What kind of kit should we buy to do the plumbing? Or should we just get stuff from Home Depot (and if so what)?
2. Do we need to add a protein skimmer immediately when cycling w/ live rock, or can this wait until we add fish (or at least til later in cycle)?
3. Should we pay a little more for live rock from an LFS b/c I can see it? We saw some that had been cooked and was covered beautifully in purple and green, so we are tempted to purchase it.
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02-05-2007, 05:53 PM
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#2
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.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NW
Posts: 11,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcliffy2
1. What kind of kit should we buy to do the plumbing? Or should we just get stuff from Home Depot (and if so what)?
2. Do I need to add a protein skimmer immediately when cycling w/ live rock, or can this wait until I add fish (or at least til later in cycle)?
3. Should I pay a little more for live rock from an LFS b/c I can see it? We saw some that had been cooked and was covered beautifully in purple and green, so I'm tempted to purchase it.
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1. there really isnt any kit as every tank is different. You should just get your ideas together, figure out what plumbing parts you need and make a shopping list. Then off to the hardware store you go. Hopefully it is close to you becasue no matter how well you plan....you will forget something
2. Not totally necessary, but i think it is good to be running your skimmer immediately...figure out how it works and how to tune it before you get any life in there.....
Do you know what kind of skimmer you are going with??
3. If it is covered in coralline.........it hasnt been cooked. If you truly cook your rock snd do it right the majority of coralline will not survive, although it will come back very fast. Im not saying that they dont have good rock that would do a great job for you. Im just telling you it hasnt been cooked thoroughly.
__________________
I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other
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02-05-2007, 07:06 PM
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#3
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Admin/ Super mod
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 20,364
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i agree with Bill,
doing a lay out will help big time inthe shopping dept. you should be able to get most everythign at the hardware store..
I also started a thread for you in the tank build thread, it has a link to this thread so all members can find it easily
__________________
Tim
need something to read? just ask me.
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02-05-2007, 07:23 PM
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#4
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
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Do you know what kind of skimmer you are going with??
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Yup, per advice here an ASM G2 (G3 won't fit). So if it takes approx. 4-6 weeks for cycling (does this reduce cycling with cooked rock?), I was thinking of putting in the skimmer at week 2-3, so I could use the upfront money to buy an RO/DI unit to fill the tank with. That way I'd have time to figure out how it works for a week or two before introducing livestock. Does this sound like a good plan?
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02-05-2007, 07:25 PM
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#5
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
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3. If it is covered in coralline.........it hasnt been cooked. If you truly cook your rock snd do it right the majority of coralline will not survive, although it will come back very fast. Im not saying that they dont have good rock that would do a great job for you. Im just telling you it hasnt been cooked thoroughly.
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Hmmm, they said they cooked it at the owners house, then bring it in. They have it under some serious metal hallides at the store, so is it possible it was cooked, then had corraline growth b/c its been awhile since cooking? And if so, will I need to cook it again, or can I just put it right in the tank?
Thanks.
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02-05-2007, 07:26 PM
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#6
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
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I also started a thread for you in the tank build thread, it has a link to this thread so all members can find it easily
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Thank you much.
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02-05-2007, 07:33 PM
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#7
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.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NW
Posts: 11,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcliffy2
Hmmm, they said they cooked it at the owners house, then bring it in. They have it under some serious metal hallides at the store, so is it possible it was cooked, then had corraline growth b/c its been awhile since cooking? And if so, will I need to cook it again, or can I just put it right in the tank?
Thanks.
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Yes....that very well could be the case. It could have been cooked awhile ago and had the coralline grow back.
Lately ive been seeing a lot of people in both retail and private situations claiming to be selling cooked rock.....that really isnt. Ill say this. Cook a few batches and you will realize that cooked rock IS worth a few bucks more a pound. Its kind of a PITA to do it right.
Regardless of its cooking condition, if it is in a healthy system now, and has been for a while, and you can quickly move it to yours, there should be no cycle.
__________________
I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other
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02-05-2007, 07:35 PM
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#8
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Admin/ Super mod
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 20,364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcliffy2
Yup, per advice here an ASM G2 (G3 won't fit). So if it takes approx. 4-6 weeks for cycling (does this reduce cycling with cooked rock?), I was thinking of putting in the skimmer at week 2-3, so I could use the upfront money to buy an RO/DI unit to fill the tank with. That way I'd have time to figure out how it works for a week or two before introducing livestock. Does this sound like a good plan?
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yes it does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcliffy2
Hmmm, they said they cooked it at the owners house, then bring it in. They have it under some serious metal hallides at the store, so is it possible it was cooked, then had corraline growth b/c its been awhile since cooking? And if so, will I need to cook it again, or can I just put it right in the tank?
Thanks.
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yes it is possible, since it was in the LFS and under MH lighitng that is is growing again.
if you keep it wet and get it in thetnak right away, you shoudl have little die off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcliffy2
Thank you much.
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welcome
__________________
Tim
need something to read? just ask me.
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02-05-2007, 07:35 PM
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#9
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Admin/ Super mod
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 20,364
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hehe bill we are reading each others minds again!
__________________
Tim
need something to read? just ask me.
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02-05-2007, 07:35 PM
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#10
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
1. there really isnt any kit as every tank is different. You should just get your ideas together, figure out what plumbing parts you need and make a shopping list. Then off to the hardware store you go. Hopefully it is close to you becasue no matter how well you plan....you will forget something
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Thankfully Home Depot is only 10 minutes away. I guess figuring out what plumbing parts I need is there I need help. This is the schematic of my overflow the manf. provides:
So from what I can tell, we need:
1. a bulkhead at the base of the intake and return (is there anything else you need to seal the tank, or is this what the bulkhead itself does?)
2. something at the top of the intake, can anyone help me here from this diagram?
3. a return spout (I have seen these at the LFS, but should I just buy something similar from Home Depot?)
4. pipes
5. bulkheads at sump to connect piping from intake/return to sump
Did I miss anything?
Thanks again...this is all starting to make a little more sense.
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02-12-2007, 03:59 PM
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#11
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Just a quick update as not much has happened with me out of town snowboarding. The pump is in, the ADHI 30 sump is supposed to be delivered mid-week (didn't realize they were sent in seperate orders, which is why I thought it was in last week), and I ordered an RO/DI from air/water/ice (100 gpd). So the plan is to start making water this week, then hopefully get the plumbing done and fill the tank this weekend.
So (amazingly) only one question at this point...what kind of storage container for the water would you recommend? I'll probably keep it in my storage room (down the hall) then use a push cart to get it from my storage room to the tank. Thanks in advance!
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02-12-2007, 04:31 PM
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#12
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Admin/ Super mod
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 20,364
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1. a bulkhead at the base of the intake and return (is there anything else you need to seal the tank, or is this what the bulkhead itself does?)
2. something at the top of the intake, can anyone help me here from this diagram?
3. a return spout (I have seen these at the LFS, but should I just buy something similar from Home Depot?)
4. pipes
5. bulkheads at sump to connect piping from intake/return to sump
1a....yes the bulk head is what is sealing it all.
2a.. you dont really need anything there at all , it will be something you want to add but you really will not see it anyway.
3a.. you coudl try one from HD, if you want a kit like the photo you gave you can get it all form AGA..
4a.. make sure you know the size of the bulhead
4b.. silicone
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what kind of storage container for the water would you recommend?
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you can use brute trash cans..( not with wheels, that is the weakest spot on them)
__________________
Tim
need something to read? just ask me.
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02-12-2007, 04:35 PM
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#13
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Golden Shellback
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Rising Sun, MD
Posts: 1,282
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Brute trash cans are nice. I have a 25 gallon and an 18 gallon Rubermaid tub in the corner next to my tank. I use a powerhead with 5' of vinyl hose to pump water into my sump for water changes. Any food grade container would work nicely too. If you go for a Rubermaid tub, don't get the ones with "feet" in the corners or wheels, they have a tendancy to crack at the stress points when under pressure.
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02-22-2007, 09:53 AM
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#14
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Shark
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,320
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Update: I figured the plumbing out! Finally, took a bit of trial and error, but I got the drain and intake into the sump installed last night with PVC (including a ball valve shutoff). I have a durso standpipe feeding the drain in the overflow. Tonight I'm tackling the return and then testing for leaks.
I have a couple questions on the return:
1) If I use PVC for the entire thing, there are a couple 90 degree elbow joints in close proximity. For this part of the connection, should I use a flexible hose instead? (I would still use PVC in the overflow to the return nozzle in the tank, and from the pump, to the bulkhead in the sump, the hose would just be from bulkhead in the sump to bulkhead in the tank).
2) Does the return need a ball valve (I have one on the drain)?
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02-22-2007, 02:40 PM
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#15
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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 3,197
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i would try to use 45's over 90's less friction.
As for a ball valve on the return, i would put one there. make sure you are placing unions at the pump inlet and outlet to make sure u can disconnect the pump to clean it or service it
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90g AGA RR, Custom 30g sump
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