Brand-new Reefer!! - Page 3

Voyeur · 05-06-2004, 11:25 AM

Yeah the wiring part looks pretty simple to me.The worst part is deciding on what to buy and when to buy it.

I did a search on workhorse 7 ballasts last night,they have a 220 watt output,and I've read a lot of good things about them.

I then checked e-bay,and you can get them for 35 doallars apiece with a buyit now.....

That sure sounds a lot better than 160 dollars for an icecap,anyone have any comments on the workhorse versus the icecap?

John

wanareef · 05-06-2004, 11:35 AM

I use them. I have 4 on my 100aga. They are small, thin but long about 18". You can use them to overdrive NO floursence bulbs and then change out to actinics later. Most of the club members use them.

The wiring is a bit different as there are 4 reds wires and 1 yellow wire that go out to the bulbs.

OodleyBoodely · 05-06-2004, 03:10 PM

Thankyou so much for the info, Wannareer!

Voyeur, You have pm.

Voyeur · 05-06-2004, 05:47 PM

Wanareef is my heeeero......

Opps,forgot to ask,Wanareef,can I wire these ballasts up remote,or do they need to be in with the bulbs?

Also,can these be used for MH bulbs at a later date as long as they arent the DE type?

John

wanareef · 05-07-2004, 01:55 AM

i think I have confused you, the Workhorse 7 ballast is for flourscence bulbs only and yes you can wire them remote, just add more wire.

I have mine on a timer as with the MH's.

hth

wanareef · 05-07-2004, 09:27 AM

Here's that link I mentioned several posts ago about the DIY MH for under $100

here look under articles and you'll see it.

With the core ballasts that is mentioned in the article, you will be locked into the Saki's only and will not be able to swap bulbs.

Voyeur · 05-07-2004, 05:09 PM

Are saki's bad?

Expensive?

Would it be bad to have to use them exclusively?

Actually I just looked at the link,I wouldn't mind having to use the Iwasaki's,but I think his plans are wrong.The cheaper ballast he reccomends using is a 50 watt output according to graysons specs,don't you need 250 watts for those bulbs?The more expensive one he cites is rated for 250 watts........It's still only 60 dollars for that ballast,which in the world of MH is still a good price I guess....

John

OodleyBoodely · 05-07-2004, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Are saki's bad? Expensive? Would it be bad to have to use them exclusively?

John, it is my understanding that the 65k Iwasaki is actually the best bulb available for coral growth. It has a very high PAR rating that really puts growth on corals. Also, I believe that they last two or more years compared to only one for higher K bulbs. Unfortunately, it is very yellow-looking so many combine them with VHO actinics to give them a whiter look or bluer look (might need more than just two actinics). If you don't mind the yellow look, you can certainly get by with just the halides, the actinics are simply for our own viewing pleasure. Also, you can use the Iwasaki 10k instead which are not yellowish but have a slightly lower PAR value-still very good bulbs compared to the competition. IMO, if you are on a budget, but want to get the most for your money, (and can DIY as you are doing) this is an excellant choice. The ballasts and bulbs are very reasonably priced and because they last longer, the replacement cost is also very low.

The main drawbacks as I see them are that you are limited to just the Iwasaki bulbs and even with actinic supplimentation, they may appear too yellow.

Voyeur · 05-07-2004, 08:50 PM

Well,I can always leave the VHOs on if I need to,besides,its not like I have anything here to compare it to,I mean,Im used to a freshwater tank with NO bulbs for goodness sake.....

You know,its only about 15 dollars more for the 400 watt ballast.....be kind of silly to use a 250 now wouldn't it??

John

OodleyBoodely · 05-08-2004, 12:02 AM

Yup!....silly. That would definately be an sps/clam tank!

Do it, John, do it!

With that setup you should be able to keep anything!

wanareef · 05-08-2004, 03:03 AM

Yes, the price is right, but if you can get it at that price and from Graybar. I had to order 6 of them and then it was $30ea. But as Oodley mentioned, you will be locked in to just the Saki bulb.

In my rambling, I mentioned using the "E" ballast and the saki bulb. If you didn't really like the bulb, you could get another brand and try that - this way you are not "locked" in to just being able to use the Saki bulb. These are $59 from most online vendors and also have a long life.

Voyeur · 05-08-2004, 07:26 PM

Ok,now I'm confused again.....

Didn't you just say I couldn't use the electronic ballast for MH?

Iwasakis are MH right?

I WILL get this straight......someday!!!

John

OodleyBoodely · 05-08-2004, 07:52 PM

I can help with this one!

Metal halides can be powered three differant ways 1. coil-core (tar) ballast and 2. electronic ballast, and 3. Mercury vapor (not really halide). The type of ballast you have will determin what kind of lamps you can run on them. That DIY halide project we have been discussing, uses the mercury vapor ballast. This ballast is made to run only mercury vapor lamps, however, Iwasaki bulbs were made to run on either the mercury vapor ballast or the true halide ballasts. You save money on that project because you can use the cheaper mercury vapor ballasts. That is also why you are limited to only the 'saki bulbs- the MV ballast will not run normal halide lamps. The Tar ballasts may or may not be restricted to certain brands of halide bulbs(depends on the ballast). These newer models seem more flexible in that respect from what I recall seeing a few years ago. The electronic ballasts offer the greatest flexibility in lamps, run cooler and more efficiently than the tar ballasts. HTH

Voyeur · 05-08-2004, 08:25 PM

But......
Wanareef said the electronic ballast wouldnt work on the MH.

Now,are there more than one type of electronic ballasts?One for flourescent and one for MH?

There has to be something Im missing here.....

OodleyBoodely · 05-09-2004, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Now,are there more than one type of electronic ballasts?One for flourescent and one for MH?

That's probably what he was talkin' about....yes there are differant kinds of ballasts for Halides, VHO, PC and NO florescent lamps. Some are the coil-core ballasts and some are electronic. Ballasts designed to run florescents will not run halide. We're talkin' two differant animals here.. Each type of ballast drives a specific type of lamp. A NO ballast will only run NO lamps whether or not it is electronic or core. With a PC ballast - I'm not too sure on, but I believe they are also type specific. VHOs (I know these!) core ballasts will only run VHO bulbs, but, the electronic VHO ballast will also run and 'overdrive' (ex. a 40w NO lamp will be powered to nearly the same output as a 110w VHO lamp) NO lamps-one of the benefits of going with electronic ballasts. With metal halide ballasts, the electronic ballast is also more versatile in its ability to accept more brands/types of lamps.

Whew!

You're really makeing me dig into what I know.. or think I know!

I just hope the real experts correct me if I get something wrong.