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06-08-2006, 10:46 PM
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#1
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Plankton
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 39
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Best way to cut acrylic?
I need to cut some sections of an old acrlylic w/d sump to make room for a bigger skimmer. What's the best way to get a clean cut? I was thinking a dremel tool or hand jigsaw with a very fine blade. Thanks!
Dave
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06-08-2006, 10:52 PM
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#2
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moddin aint easy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: newnan, ga
Posts: 5,697
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i heard people using a router with very good results
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ANDY
You don't stop laughing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop laughing. Which is ironic, because old people are hilarious.
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06-08-2006, 10:55 PM
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#3
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senior member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 13,301
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I prefer a router with a 3 blade bit at a moderate speed with a cooling jet directed at the cut (compressed air)
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Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
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06-08-2006, 10:56 PM
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#4
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.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: bend, oregon
Posts: 10,737
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Neither of those ways will get you a clean cut at all. I have done it those ways and no matter how steady your hand is you will still be hand sanding edges forever to get them to fit tight. You really need to use a table saw or a router with the appropriate bit. An acrylic blade for the table saw will work the best but you can get away with fairly fine tipped wood blades, just be VERY wary of the acrylic melting and grabbing teeth of the blade and ripping them off. They can go through walls. I still will do it, but just make sure to keep my head clear of the blade line in case it happens. It doesnt usually happen unless you are cutting quite a bit though. A few short cuts shouldnt be an issue, just keep it in mind. I just built two sumps from scratch out of 1/2 inch acrylic. Ive never used a router but thats how the pros do it. The table saw does pretty well.
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I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other
Zoa and paly pics HERE
SPS pics HERE
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06-08-2006, 11:03 PM
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#5
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senior member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 13,301
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Bill:
I get the best results with the router in a router table setup so the router is not used freehand. The table saw has a tendency to grab the work and throw it as the blade melts the materials, so extreme care is needed to use a table saw. I end up finishing the cuts made with a table saw (zero curf thin fine tooth blade) on a router table to get perfect edges that seal with capillary action using no 3 weldon (like thin water) and do not use anything else to fill the seams (as the edges are perpendicular and straight without kerf marks from the saw blade).
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Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
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06-08-2006, 11:05 PM
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#6
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senior member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 13,301
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I do see where there is a professional grade acrylic 10" circular blade, but it is $138 USD  Special order item.
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Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
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06-08-2006, 11:12 PM
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#7
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.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: bend, oregon
Posts: 10,737
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by tdwyatt
I do see where there is a professional grade acrylic 10" circular blade, but it is $138 USD  Special order item.
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Yeah...i Know.
Thats why i just made both of my sumps using a fine tooth wood blade.  I knew from past exp about the flying tooth thing and i did break a couple towards the end of the project. I have a friend whos dad owns a milling business of some kind and on their big routing machine they had a bit (the WRONG type bit)go through THREE warehouse walls and to the outside trying to cut a big piece of acrylic.
My sumps ended up great but I didnt go to the effort of making the edges perfect enough that i could use #3 weld-on. #16 sealed them just fine however.
__________________
I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other
Zoa and paly pics HERE
SPS pics HERE
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06-09-2006, 05:23 AM
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#8
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Marietta,GA
Posts: 110
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Hand held Wet tile saw from Homedepot is a dream machine.
No heat, smooth finish cut and if you pick the right helper.......
You'll have he best wet tee shirt party ever!  ( he running water gets a little messy....but hey ITS SUMMER!
Use a Thin flat straight edge as a guild under the motor, run the metal base of the hand saw along the guild.(the guild must be thin to fit under the right side of the saw)
I cut 1 1/4 inch acrylic with unit with little problem.
Cuts thin stuff like 1/2 inch like butter.
and at sixty eight bucks with the blade, its easy on the wallet.
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06-09-2006, 07:15 AM
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#9
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A Chaotic Fishy
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Alpharetta, Ga
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Kalkbreath
if you pick the right helper.......
You'll have he best wet tee shirt party ever! 
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Tony/.
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06-09-2006, 07:34 AM
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#10
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onetwentythree
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chandler, Az
Posts: 482
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yep router it.
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29g 150w MH, and other fun stuff
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06-09-2006, 07:44 AM
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#11
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 12,058
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Router table with an acrylic bit. Smooth and precise edges, easy to handle. I also can atttest to the hazzards of a table saw. I was cutting the baffles for my sump and the piece caught, kicked back and hit me in the...well, you get the picture. The other piece went sailing across the shop. A router is definately the sfest and best bet.
Robert
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After 2 years I finally have water in it! (no, really)!
Where is Planet P?
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06-09-2006, 08:23 AM
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#12
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 458
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I have cut and will continue to cut acrylic w/ a 80 tooth plywood blade on a circular saw. You get clean cuts and any deburring can be done w/ a dremel.
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90g display/55g sump | H&S 200x2-F2001 skimmer | (2) IC 250w XM 10k MH w/ T5 BluePlus, SuperActinic | PM KalkReactor dosed via LiterMeter | Vortech and (2) Tunze 6055's on 7095
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