ATO. I need help picking one.

[Fat Tony]

Originally Posted by chrisd

i think the most important thing is to use the proper size ato tank that if something failed it will not overflow your sump.

+1

Originally Posted by chrisd

well tony i just ordered the tunze should be here by the week end i hope. but i will let you know how it works. plus i just got the air water ice typhoon 3 extreme rodi to go with it.

I didn't say it doesn't work, I just think that it is overpriced. But who am I to say, i probably have the most expensive ATO setup ever

[Elegance Coral]

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

Depends on how handy you are. For about $20 in parts, you can have double redundancy for safety.
...

Originally Posted by fihsboy

Well personally I would just make my own as well......which is what I did. 20-30 bucks and your done. .

Where do I find the parts to build an ATO for 20 or 30 bucks? At autotopoff.com the float switches and solenoid comes to about 85 bucks.

[Fat Tony]

I can tell you that each float switch is about $10 a couple relays and a solenoid and you are at another $30-40... I have probably $5-600 tied up into my ATO and waterchange system (still incomplete) with all the tanks and such. The electrical parts cost me about $200 in parts to do it, and that's not including purchasing every item due to me having a few parts laying around...BUT, I have double redundancy on everything, I like to increase the safety factor in everything I build..

[fihsboy]

15 bucks
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tom_Aquat...OE1032-vi.html
6 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Liquid-Water...d=p3286.c0.m14

and after shipping splicing taping...and buying an extension cord your looking at maybe 30-35.

[Fat Tony]

That's be great except.. he's wanting to turn on a RODI with it as well. So, he is going to need some relays and a solenoid or 2

Not to mention, I'm not sure how those switches are tested and if they are UL listed (probably...errr likely not). So for just a couple $$ more, I would get US made high quality Madison float switches

[quader94]

would running it straight from the rodi unit put amonia in the tank because dont you have to wait a certain time after making it?

[Fat Tony]

It won't put ammonia in the tank, it will however put higher TDS water into your tank.

[SoK]

any thoughts/reviews on the JBJ ATO?

[Jnicho]

I've never used one, but this is made by a local guy and everyone on the local board/club raves about them:

http://www.gapproducts.com/ATO/ATO.htm

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=20411

[tdwyatt]

Originally Posted by Fat Tony

... So for just a couple $$ more, I would get US made high quality Madison float switches

How I have mine set up.

I still would opt for the Tunze if you don't want issues with salt accumulation or snails getting on a float, etc. Tunze has no moving parts to F/U, I took that as the selection criteria from the original post at the other thread here, not expense.

I have workarounds to avoid most of the DIY ATO issues, but they start adding up in cost.

[tdwyatt]

I do not necessarily recommend this site ($$$), but these are some of the specs for the madison float switches available:
http://winst.com/_upload/catalog/M3.pdf

[fihsboy]

Well I wouldnt hook up an RO unit straight to my tank......I know a lot of people have and do..........but to me its just asking to overflow my tank with freshwater. I have way too much invested to let a single switch ruin everything. I would rather fill up my trash can weekly and only risk 5 gallons getting flooded in.

[Fat Tony]

I wouldn't hook it up directly into the tank either. Mine is hooked up to the reservoir (33 gallons) and when the reservoir is filling the tank cannot (is electrically isolated) top off until the RO unit shuts off.

But like I said, I probably have the most complex and redundant ATO system out there

[Fat Tony]

Here's a sketch of layout and wiring schematic for the ATO

[fihsboy]

Thats way to complicated. haha. Sounds like you have one heck of a ato.