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Old 08-07-2009, 09:16 PM   #16
Seaweed88
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Thanks all. I cut 2 inches off the overflow and it works like a champ. My overflow looks like the one in the picture. Thanks again for the help!!
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:37 PM   #17
ZMattie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadinop View Post
Does your gate mod look like this? This works better than putting the valve directly on the output. Leaving the top of the pipe open will help alleviate the back pressure on the skimmer. I have found it works better than some of the other mods I have seen.



Mine is recirc'd so I only use a 1in gate valve due to the lower amount of flow.

What is the purpose of having the extra piece that comes above the skimmer (up from the T)? I did the valve mod on my g3 and left the "t" portion out. Sometimes my skimmer goes nuts and skims wet out of no where (it overflows the 1 gallon bucket that it drains into and pumps water onto the floor)... Would not having the T in there be the reason?

Also, my sump is way to small for my tank and I have not had the money to upgrade it yet. So the inlet to the pump sometimes vibrates closer to the glass which would restrict more flow, IDK if this means anything lol, but I figured Id throw it in there to get it figured out!
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:47 PM   #18
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Here is what mine looks like...
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:47 PM   #19
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It is there to relieve the back pressure of the water in the skimmer body and allow the skimmer to flow properly. Not having this tee could be the cause of your skimmer going crazy occasionally
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:53 PM   #20
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Awesome! I'll make the chage asap! Thanks Tony
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:57 PM   #21
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no problem... but be warned, i said "could" be causing your skimmer to overflow... it could be a few other things, but I would start there first
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:00 PM   #22
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Of course, Ill start with that, then Ill upgrade my sump to a 40 breeder. I think Im eventually going to do the re-circ mod also, anyone have a link to a good step by step? The site I found my gate valve mod on had one, but it was very vague and if im going to be drilling the skimmer, I want to make sure I know what im doing!
Thanks again!
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:41 PM   #23
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anybody?
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:18 AM   #24
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Yes, the T is very important since there is a bit of releif obtained there for backpressure. As far as the recirc mod, that is up to you. You get more dwell time and can control the pastrough via the second pump, but the air numbers tend to fall off. Plus you adding the second pump which causes more heat and energy use.
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:21 AM   #25
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Also Zmattie I cant tell if your output is under water or not? You either need another T on that end or to have it above water. You can actually see the water level rise and the air numbers drop by pulling it out of the water or having the output under water
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:31 AM   #26
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As Hop pointed out the first "T" relieves the back pressure on the skimmer. I use a pipe that is as tall as the cup but you could get away with a little shorter if needed. You can't tell from the pic but the second "T" where the water drops down has a hole drilled in the cap. This relieves pressure if your output pipe is submerged. Without this hole, you will also have backpressure on the skimmer and may experience surging or occasional overflow.

I have run the same G3 skimmer in both configurations (recirc and standard) and can say that it runs well either way. Actually, I have had 4 different ASM's so far and was happy with the overall performance of each one.
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:15 AM   #27
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Thanks all. If I am understanding the last 2 posts I need to get the out flow out of the water or drill a hole in the 90. Is that correct?
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:19 AM   #28
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NP... fwiw, my pipe is as tall as my skimmer as well...
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:33 AM   #29
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No need to brag there tony
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:35 AM   #30
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LOL... ok... back on topic!

DOH!
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