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Old 05-07-2009, 06:02 PM   #1
scungili
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Are all epoxy putties safe once cured?


Does it matter if you buy a stick of "aquarium safe" epoxy or is all epoxy inert once cured?
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Old 05-07-2009, 06:19 PM   #2
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That's a good question.

I use epoxy that's OK for "potable" water.
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:44 PM   #3
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and has your experience has been positive? Did you here it was safe from someone else?

I'd like confirmation that once the chemical reaction has taken place (provided the two compounds were thoroughly mixed), then the end product is inert, like a plastic. But me no sure...
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:48 PM   #4
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It wouldn't be the first time this industry has slapped a "for aquariums!" label on something that is identical to something you can find at Home Depot. A good example would be Silicone... Silicone is Silicone as long as it is 100% with nothing added, and the cured product is inert.
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:13 AM   #5
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I would say no,like the high heat and the ones for copper etc...
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scungili View Post
It wouldn't be the first time this industry has slapped a "for aquariums!" label on something that is identical to something you can find at Home Depot. A good example would be Silicone... Silicone is Silicone as long as it is 100% with nothing added, and the cured product is inert.
can somebody clarify this?
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:39 PM   #7
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Yes someone, please clarify.

I've done a little asking around and heard from tank builders that GE silicone or any other brand as long as it is 100% silicone, is the same stuff from a tube that says "Silicone for Aquariums". From what I've read 100% silicone with no additives is inert once cured.

Here is something I quickly pulled from the web address below.

http://www.corals101.com/Information..._Adhesives.htm


"There are other adhesives that you use on your aquarium before it is filled with water. One of these is called the silicon caulk. Typically this is used to seal cracks in the glass. It is needs contain 100% silicon caulk, and nothing else. The thing you want to watch out for here is make sure to aquarium safe because some silicate silicon caulk has a anti-fungal agent put into it, so that when you caulk your outside door or window, mold wont grow on it. This additive is toxic, so don't use caulk that contains it. We have used a product by General Electric, called GE 012 in the past successfully, but arent going to warrant that it is safe. Try it at your own risk, but we havent had any problems with it."

If you look at the beginning of this article, it talks about using only the epoxies that specify for use in Aquariums. I'm trying to clarify if most epoxy putties are inert once cured. I know many are, however, there may be things to watch for just like in the Silicone example.

Does anyone know if epoxy putties or epoxy caulking or epoxy paint is inert and therefore "safe" once cured?

I'm not a Chemist, nor am I giving advice on what you should use in your tank, I'm just trying to gather some information.
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:40 PM   #8
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It's funny that I spell/grammer check my forum replies better that a website that prescribes advice, like the one I sited.
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scungili View Post
Yes someone, please clarify.

I've done a little asking around and heard from tank builders that GE silicone or any other brand as long as it is 100% silicone, is the same stuff from a tube that says "Silicone for Aquariums". From what I've read 100% silicone with no additives is inert once cured.

Here is something I quickly pulled from the web address below.

http://www.corals101.com/Information..._Adhesives.htm


"There are other adhesives that you use on your aquarium before it is filled with water. One of these is called the silicon caulk. Typically this is used to seal cracks in the glass. It is needs contain 100% silicon caulk, and nothing else. The thing you want to watch out for here is make sure to aquarium safe because some silicate silicon caulk has a anti-fungal agent put into it, so that when you caulk your outside door or window, mold wont grow on it. This additive is toxic, so don't use caulk that contains it. We have used a product by General Electric, called GE 012 in the past successfully, but arent going to warrant that it is safe. Try it at your own risk, but we havent had any problems with it."

If you look at the beginning of this article, it talks about using only the epoxies that specify for use in Aquariums. I'm trying to clarify if most epoxy putties are inert once cured. I know many are, however, there may be things to watch for just like in the Silicone example.

Does anyone know if epoxy putties or epoxy caulking or epoxy paint is inert and therefore "safe" once cured?

I'm not a Chemist, nor am I giving advice on what you should use in your tank, I'm just trying to gather some information.
Agreed , and proven I use the clear 100% silicone when I built my sump and other DIY projects...If it says for doors or windows, its OK....if it says for kitchens and bathrooms with a mildow additive...don't use it....the 100% silicone sold at all hardware and home improvement stores seems safe and a lot cheaper....just read the label carefully...
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Old 05-09-2009, 07:44 AM   #10
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Has anyone used Hardware store purchased epoxy with no ill effects? If so, which brand did you use?

My GF bought 2 types that I used to glue up rock rubble that was broken off in transport. (a therapeutic craft I might add). I managed to create some fairly cool structures. But before I put the stuff in my tank, I want to be sure.

One was used it looks dark grey and approved for potable water, which I've heard people use.

Second one I used was the Green and white center one, that I heard is fine.

Can anyone confirm this, sorry, I wish I had brand names but I threw away the wrapper.
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scungili View Post
and has your experience has been positive? Did you here it was safe from someone else?

I'd like confirmation that once the chemical reaction has taken place (provided the two compounds were thoroughly mixed), then the end product is inert, like a plastic. But me no sure...
I'm sorry I was away from the cpu.....

I did have fine results with the 2 part epoxy that was safe for potable water.

I was searching for answers also, but came up empty handed. I had a bunch of that stuff "mighty putty" and wanted to see if it was ok. I never did get any answers.

I bought some stuff from ACE Hardware that stated to be safe for drinking water. If its good enough for me, it's fine for some fish. Needless to say, I glued down 3 or 4 corals and have had NO ill-effects.
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:55 AM   #12
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Hey thanks, I think this subject is still largely untraveled for good reason. I would like to know though, since I made some cool structures with LR rubble and old shells....
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:00 AM   #13
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... try it and post your results.
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:28 AM   #14
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Now way! I leave the experiments to people that do this for a living and have 5 or 6 tanks going. I have this one tank build. My very first reef tank, and there are plenty of lessons I'm sure I will learn without the need for experimentation.
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:39 PM   #15
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I have some recent experience with the epoxy glueing corals together. The first epoxy I used was a "water safe" one I got from home depot. It did not state aquarium safe but as mentioned above I figured if its safe for drinking water it should be good enough for corals. That one seemed to work fine. However, it is a week later when I got greedy and went with a huge 10 inch tube of "Fix-it stick". This product did say plugs and seals leaks however it never stated drinking water safe. My tank is now cloudy with a canister filter running new charcoal. Water change, still cloudy, water change still cloudy. I guess I can only believe this more industrial tube of epoxy is possibly harmful, if not a water clouder for sure. At least I am still in construction mode so there is no waste of salt or living creatures. Just have to dismantle and go back to the drinking safe epoxies, which are far cheaper than the "aquarium safe" products.
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