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12-04-2005, 04:19 PM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 60
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Anyone use an Aquamedic Nitratereductor?
Just curious--I've been reading about this and I was just wondering if anyone else here uses it. My nitrates are still high, and the tank has been established for 7 months now. Is this a good buy? Any insight would be appreciated. I always love getting a new toy for my aquarium!
http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/p...tratereductors
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12-04-2005, 04:45 PM
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#2
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 60
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Anybody? Even if you don't use it, what's your opinion about it? Do you think its worth $200.00 if it brings the nitrates to 0?
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12-04-2005, 05:41 PM
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#3
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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i think they are a masking agent for bigger problems in your system. i am sure i was not the one you wanted to post a reply.
i will start with the normal questions to help you with your nitrate problems. are you running a wet/dry filter? what are you using to cycle the tank? what kind of skimmer are you using?
G~
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My Build Thread
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12-04-2005, 05:51 PM
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#4
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 60
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Thanks! Ok, it's a wet/dry filter, but the bio balls are gone, so basically it's a glorified sump. However, the protein skimmer is included with the filter (water is skimmed first, then goes to the sump chamber).
The PS isn't anything special, just a pump with the venturi air hose. I had an Aqua C Remora hang on previously, but after I got the wet dry, I stopped using the Remora. But the PS I have now works about the same as the Remora.
The tank has been cycled for a while now. I've got crushed coral substrate and plenty of live rock (couldn't give you an exact weight count because I don't know).
I feed every other day, and my nitrates are still high, around 7. I really wish there was some kind of machine that could lower nitrates!!! But that's why I could use your help. I don't want to blow $200 (the one I was looking at was the 1000 model) if it isn't going to work. In fact I read one review already and they said it didn't do anything to help.
What's really turning me off about this is the computer monitor device they recommend using along with this reductor.
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12-04-2005, 06:39 PM
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#5
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The Dude Abides
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: RI
Posts: 1,129
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A few more questions
Do you use ro/di water?
What do you have for livestock?
What size tank?
How frequently do you do water changes?
Do you siphon the crushed coral?
How much do you feed?
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Proud member of the
 
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12-04-2005, 06:51 PM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 60
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I've got a 30 gallon-but wet/dry adds about 10 more gallons. RO/DI water, feed fish every other day with frozen brine shrimp. Water changes are about 5 gallons every month. I haven't ever siphoned the crushed coral-I didn't want to disturb the bacterial growth. My livestock:
Bubble coral
Rose coral (stony)
2 other types of soft coral (still can't ID)
False Percula clown
Strawberry pseudochromis
Hippo Tang
Dotted Cardinal
Bi-Color Angel
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12-04-2005, 07:20 PM
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#7
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The Dude Abides
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: RI
Posts: 1,129
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Well, that answers that.
That's way too much bioload for 30 gal especially the hippo, which will outgrow that tank quickly.
Also, crushed coral doesn't provide the same bacterial processing as a sand bed. The crushed coral is too large, and traps detritus. The cc bed need to be siphoned regularly.
Get rid of the tang, switch to weekly water changes, and siphon your substrate with every water change and you'll see a significant reduction in nitrates.
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Proud member of the
 
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12-04-2005, 07:36 PM
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#8
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City
Posts: 381
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I had a Nitrate reductor for about 1yr and finally got rid of it..I am not sure if it auctally reduced it or not! I had no problems with nitrate I just was On a buying spree and got it! I would say you have a big bio load to! I have a 30L and a 20L sump with only 2 six line wrassers and 2 clown gobies! (and yes the 2 wrasse are doing jsut fine in the tank!)
CLH
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12-04-2005, 07:41 PM
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#9
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 21,077
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sharp1183
I've got a 30 gallon-but wet/dry adds about 10 more gallons. RO/DI water, feed fish every other day with frozen brine shrimp. Water changes are about 5 gallons every month. I haven't ever siphoned the crushed coral-I didn't want to disturb the bacterial growth. My livestock:
Bubble coral
Rose coral (stony)
2 other types of soft coral (still can't ID)
False Percula clown
Strawberry pseudochromis
Hippo Tang
Dotted Cardinal
Bi-Color Angel
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Couple things if I may, These have been around a long time, and if they were as effective as they claim, i suspect they would be a lot more popular, so draw your own conclusion.
As to your nitrate issue, the biggest things I see going against you is your tank has a BIG fishload, pooping into basically a rockpile thats trapping droppings. I suspect that the fish get fed plenty to keep them happy.
My first step would be to get rid of the angel and the tang, I think your other 3 fish are about a max fish load for a 30, maybe one more small one, but tangs and angels both are prone to space stress 
Next I would do a series of water changes and use the opportunity to siphon out the crushed coral in sections. Dont worry about the bacteria, they wont get slurped of the substrates surface.
You might consider something besides frozen brine for food, they have very little nutritional value, mostly roughage but little else compared to other foods. Search Blender Mush, for ideas on fairly inexpensive food alternatives.
If you have a total system volume of 40 gal and you are doing 5gal water changes monthly, you are only reducing your nitrate by 1/8, given the feeding and fish load you will never get ahead here.
Lastly are you using RO/DI or tap water to top off the tank and to make up new salt water for water changes?
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12-04-2005, 07:47 PM
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#10
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BIG SMELLY MOD
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livingston Parish, Denham Springs, Louisiana
Posts: 16,514
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They may help but not worth the investment. I have one of the old coil type, They work at a very slow and remove a very low level of nitrates. I keep thinking of taking mine apart and make something good out of it. Don't buy
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Vince aka VINNIE
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12-04-2005, 09:34 PM
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#11
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 60
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All right, I'm not going to get it. You guys talked me out of it.
Thanks for all your advice and help. I guess I should really concentrate on what's causing the problem, rather than keeping the problem alive and well and just trying to "cover it up" with useless and expensive hardware.
I guess this is why I haven't seen the Aquamedic Nitratereductor on Marine Depot. In fact, I had trouble finding information about it everywhere I looked.
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12-05-2005, 05:46 AM
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#12
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,275
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I agree with everyone that this unit is more of a band-aid. You need to get to the heart of the problem.
I also agree with the bio-load.
The part that DOES suprise me, is everyone suggestion to get rid of the fish. That's not the TRUE way we do things in this hobby. If you have a bio-load problem...you don't get rid of the fish....you just get a bigger tank!!!!!
Kidding aside, you either need to get rid of the fish, or get a bigger tank. Also, cut back a bit on feedings. Maybe every 3 days. THe fish will pretend their hungry...but they WILL survive. They're just manipulating you!
All good advice so far!
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