Another novice basic question

[jamnelsvgs]

First I would like to thank all the people who helped me with the lighting question.
Now for the next novice question, I have been cycling my tank for over a week now, I have live rock in the tank, and have the same substrate that I was using when I had the tank setup just for tangs. Ammonia, and Nitrate levels are all correct according to test kits, I also have a feather duster in the tank, but algae is already beginning to form (I think this is a good sign) But I dont want it to get out of control. I have a bio ball system, and powerhead in the tank, In the process of getting a skimmer , never needed it with my tangs, and I use a whisper3 external filter with just charcoal to increase water flow through the tank. So what should I do to control the algae.(either in the form of mechanical or live solutions) The feather duster in there was from previous tank. Some of what Im doing may seem a little cheap,, but trying to set this up on as much of a budget as possible. ( I know contradiction of terms, Reef tank and Budget) :-)Also have some books on reefs but the books seem to conflict sometimes and I like communicating with people who are into the hobby and have experienced these things first hand better than reading a book. Thanks again for all your help in advance.

[Doug1]

So which algae are you getting,
Diatoms are the golden brown dusting that invariably appear in new setups, they soon fade away as the excess silicates are utilized.
The green dusting is normal and should fade, same reason, but if it grows rampantly or changes to fuzz, hair, sheets of green algae you have a high nutient level.. Keep in mind that as algae grows its drawing nitrogen and phosphate from the water as fuel for growth and often times these levels will show low on a test kit. add a variety of snails and supplement the detrivores in the sand bed, with worms, mini stars, etc
In time the tanks infauna will be able to cope with the bad stuff and reduce it.
Also lights off at this point may help curb its growth. A good skimmer will export alot of dissolved organic compounds that provide fuel for algae growth, HTH

[Alice]

Hi

So you do have a wet/dry that you're using with the bioballs? In time you will probably want to convert that to a sump, removing the bioballs and letting the live rock, substrate and skimmer handle the processing. Reef tanks don't handle nitrates well and bioballs don't process them fully. How much live rock is in the tank?

What are you using for a water source? RO/DI water is your best bet to keep nutrient levels down. You may also want to add an extra powerhead or two.

Doug has it right on the algae stages, it can take a good six months for them to pass completely and the tank to settle in. As long as you are exporting nutrients via skimmer and waterchanges though, and don't rush things by adding too much livestock too soon, the algaes shouldn't gain an insurmountable foothold. Wild reefs are algae-driven but the system of checks and balances in a healthy reef keeps everythng in its proper place.

It can be hard to look at though Especially as your tank is on display in your business. You may want to put a little sign on the tank explaining that it's perfectly natural and all part of the process. I did that for a few customers when I was doing tank maintenace. There just isn't a way to hurry it a long much.

Alice

[Alice]

We do have a couple of members on the board from Las Vegas. SJLord and eaglelox. I think there's one more as well, but the name is escaping me at the moment You might want to drop them a line, it's always nice to know fellow reefers in the area!

[vulkum]

the other your thinking about is sandreef , alice unless theres another by now.

[jamnelsvgs]

The algae that is growing is brown algae, I have about 20 lbs of live rock in the tank, and the one feather duster along with about 30 lbs of dead rock.
Would like to know a little more about skimmers if anyone can recommend one for the 55 gallon that is not too unsightely and will still do the job well. Do I need to leave it on the tank 24/7, or can I put it on while we are closed and take it off when we open.
I am in the store about 12 hours a day seven days a week, so have alot of time to do simple maintenance on the tank. I am currently keeping the temp in the tank around 77 and it drops to about 74 from 11:00pm to 6:30 am when we are closed, have a 300watt heater in the tank, but no heat in my store at night.
Hoping this can give everyone who is trying to help me a better picture of what I have.
Thanks again for all the graet feedback

[Doug1]

Up the temp slowly to about 80, add a second heater in the W/d set at 78 as a backup
I would look at an Urchin Pro in sump skimmer and run it 24/7
Perhaps one of the Vegas people could drop by and give you some pointers, Actually Sand Reef is only one in Vegas I can think of, Steve and Eagllox are in Reno

[Sand Reef]

I'd be more than happy to help out a fellow aquarist. There are a few of us here in vegas who meet once a month. Welcome!!

V

[Doug1]

There you go

[jamnelsvgs]

Thanks Sand Reef If you like please feel free to email me(jamnelsvgs@aol.com) , and I will give you a 101 different ways to reach me, would love to have someone come up and take a look at what I have, and make some suggestions.

Also if you can tell me a GOOD reliable honest Local Fish Store in Vegas I would love it. Not impressed with ATM who I have dealt with for my bioball wet/dry system, and recently went to yellow submarine and I think they are just getting started so still unsure of alot. Tanks-A-Lot has great prices but not alot on display in the salt water / reef area but has definitely been the most helpful without talking down to me. From what I understand the staff at yellow submarine all came from ATM. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks James from Las Vegas

[Alice]

Sorry Sand Reef, Eaglelox and Steven; I mixed up your Nevada locations! I need to run now and get my oldest,...oh...what's his name! up for school.

Alice