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Old 08-22-2007, 07:17 PM   #1
mxwoodman
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90gal build help


Hi guys I’m building a 90gal reef tank and need some help.

Here a list of items I have.

· All Glass 90gal 24w x 24h x 18d tank, overflow kit, stand and canopy
· Oceanic 30gal Model 2 Sump
· ASM G2 Skimmer
· 57 watt UV/Ozone
· Mag 12 return pump
· Two little fishies Phosphate Reactor
· 2 – ViaAqua 250w heaters
· Hamilton retrofit dual Halides Lights 20000K 250w and 2 CF 55w blue
· JBJ ATO
· Aqua Controller III with IO breakout box with temp, PH, and ORP probes
· PCI CL-280 Chiller 1/10hp
· Tunze 7095 Multi-Controller
· 2 – Tunze 6101 Streams with magnet holders

I think that’s everything. I had everything but the chiller, ATO, and Tunze stuff all put together and also added 2 - 5” fans to the hood. I did some tests with everything going (No LR or Sand) and the temp went to 85 and had a 2 gals of water evaporation per day. I also have micro bubbles returning into the tank. So I purchased the chiller, ATO, and Tunze stuff

So here are my questions if you guys can help:

How much water should I have in the sump? Do I leave enough room so when I turn the return pump off I don’t overflow the sump or just below the dam in the sump? I have tried different levels a few inches above the dam and right below but I still get micro bubbles in the tank.

I’m going to create a rock lift like the one in the DIY thread how deep of a sand bed should I use? I’m thinking somewhere around 2”.

How should I hookup the chiller with a new pump or the return pump? The return pump is currently going to the UV and then into the tank. Where should the return of the chiller go?

I also want to build a cabinet to put the chiller in, but the instructions say that the back needs to be 24” away any structure and 12” for the front. I wouldn’t want a cabinet that big. Do guys have any ideas can I make a small cabinet and use a fan and keep the back open and have it a 4" away from the wall?

Thanks in advance for any help
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:02 PM   #2
dobejazz
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Welcome to TRT
Sounds like a cool project.

The only question I personally can answer is you definitely want room in the sump for the overflow to drain without overflowing the sump
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:10 PM   #3
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Just a few tips:

The mag 12 is WAY too much for a return pump. You want something closer to 300-500 GPH. IMO higher flowthrough the sump is a waste of electricity, leads to microbubble issues and bandaids and causes the skimmer to loose it's per-pass-through efficiency.

The UV is not ozone. Ozone takes extreme caution to use and a ASM is NOT ozone safe

The 6100s will be pleanty of flow, good choice.

And... Grab a DC8 for the AC III and you will want to run the hallides on the DC4HD

But I think you are definately on the right track! Can't wait for the build thread!!!
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:18 PM   #4
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24w x 24h x 18d tank with two 6101? I hope ypur going bare bottom SPS tank. You will have a hard time keeping your sand in one place.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:19 PM   #5
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Just my .02 upgrade your skimmer for all of the other equipment you got it seems your skimmer is under powered. but JMO...
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
How much water should I have in the sump? Do I leave enough room so when I turn the return pump off I don’t overflow the sump or just below the dam in the sump? I have tried different levels a few inches above the dam and right below but I still get micro bubbles in the tank.
Did you get baffles with the sump? If not they are a nice thing to have. They will help decide the running height of the sump. You need enough room that in the event of a power outage or pump failure, the amount of water drained from the tank does not flood the sump. The microbubbles are likely from the oversized pump as I already discussed

Quote:
I’m going to create a rock lift like the one in the DIY thread how deep of a sand bed should I use? I’m thinking somewhere around 2”.
With those tunzes, you may not have any sand... 2" is fine IMO.

Quote:
How should I hookup the chiller with a new pump or the return pump? The return pump is currently going to the UV and then into the tank. Where should the return of the chiller go?
I prefer a seperate pump from the drain side of the sump to the drain side of the sump. You can use it to tap off of for future things as well such as a Ca reactor and you Po4 reactor.

Quote:
I also want to build a cabinet to put the chiller in, but the instructions say that the back needs to be 24” away any structure and 12” for the front. I wouldn’t want a cabinet that big. Do guys have any ideas can I make a small cabinet and use a fan and keep the back open and have it a 4" away from the wall?
Best to plumb it in the garage or somewhere else. If not properly vented the chiller has to work harder to cool. Resulting in more electrical costs, a decreased in efficiency and reduced life on the chiller...

And I appologise on your last post I missed the breakout boxes. I would still run the DC8 for your ACIII, and put the hallides on the breakout box
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:20 PM   #7
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24w x 24h x 18d tank with two 6101? I hope ypur going bare bottom SPS tank. You will have a hard time keeping your sand in one place.
LOL. He got the controller so he can throttle them back. But yes the 6100s will likely move the tank around on full
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:41 PM   #8
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Thanks guys,

I do have a DC8 and a DC4 I forgot to put those on the list.

I also I have a extra Mag 5 500 GPH would that be enough to go through the UV and back up to the tank?

What skimmer would you replace it with?

So I don't need the sand?

The sump has some type of baffle that the return from the tank goes into, I think it is for some type of media. I have it in there with nothing in it and the sump has a little dam in it on the other side about six inches high after that I have the return pump.

I guess building a cabient for the chiller is not a good idea.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:56 PM   #9
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i think the mag 12 would be perfect if u tee off to run the chiller,phos reactor and uv aswell as the return with it. just put ball valves on everyting and adjust flow accordingly. thats how i wish i would have done my tank, and how i still might in the future. sounds like its going to be a sweet setup! congrats and good luck.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:40 PM   #10
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Thanks Mike,

So right now I have the pump in the sump, so if I add some kind tee and values should I move the pump outside of the sump or leave it in?
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by reefermike1 View Post
i think the mag 12 would be perfect if u tee off to run the chiller,phos reactor and uv aswell as the return with it. just put ball valves on everyting and adjust flow accordingly. thats how i wish i would have done my tank, and how i still might in the future. sounds like its going to be a sweet setup! congrats and good luck.
The biggest concern with doing it this way is if the pump fails. Then you are dead in the water and maybe have a dead chiller also. I thought of doing it this way and elected not to. Based on a back up for everything plan. It's also a pain to balance, so two pumps IMO would be better. Not that the one pump is wrong
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aqua controller ii , ball valve , micro bubbles , orp probe , phosphate reactor , rock lift , sps tank



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