wtb uv sterilizer

king kong · 03-17-2005, 06:43 PM

Would need for my 180.. any opinions? suggestions? I had one on my 75 gallon never had a algea problem..my 180 is always fighting algea..no other real problems. what do you guys think?

Graham · 03-17-2005, 06:52 PM

I think there are a few other things that will help with nutrient excess before counting on a UV to help the problem. I can guarantee that a UV alone won't get rid of an existing algae problem. Bottom line is that you have to decrease input and/or increase export. You can increase export by skimming wetter, siphoning crud off the bottom, blowing detritus from your live rock, removing biomass (algae harvesting, etc), using a phosphate-removing media (be careful) and decrease input by feeding less. If you have a sandbed, you may consider the possibility that it is leaching nutrients back into the water column.

The UV will allow your skimmer to perform better (as will ozone - a cheaper, but IMO more risky venture), but it won't correct a nutrient imbalance on its own. I have a UV and it hasn't done anything to eliminate what little algae is in the tank. My skimmer does perform better since installing it, though and I don't have to clean the glass as often. It will also help out with parasites. It's not the first thing I would look at to solve an algae problem, though. JMO...

David Grigor · 03-17-2005, 06:53 PM

To be honest, usually UV is more for fighting parasites in your fish etc. If you having algae problems while UV may help it isn't going to solve the root cause.........

David Grigor · 03-17-2005, 06:55 PM

Wow, Graham.....at least we were thinking along the same lines as we were both typing, just your a little longer winded than me I guess.....

Graham · 03-17-2005, 07:54 PM

king kong · 03-17-2005, 09:21 PM

Was thinking it might help with red slim..dont get me wrong..i have no big algea issue..no problems with fish (all tangs) with a have had for over a year. I just think it would help kill the red slime by killing the bacteria that causes red slim. again..its not horriable..just comes and goes..I have no hair algea and have tons of the pink algea

otolith · 03-17-2005, 09:50 PM

Well, I have a UV on my 180 and I have a little red slime in a low flow area...stupid sandbed. Once it's gone, there's gonna be some more flow.

redwinger · 03-17-2005, 09:58 PM

I don't think that the uv will take care of the red slime. I had it for a while and cut down on feedings, photoperiod and increased flow in the area it was growing. Also upped the water changes and it went away. Also phosphates were a little high. After doing this it has not returned (knock on wood). I run a 25 watt uv and doesn't really help with water clarity, more so with parasites then anything.

Graham · 03-18-2005, 12:24 PM

That's odd, redwinger. I have a 40 watt Emporer on my 120 and noticed a definite improvement in water clarity...I don't even run carbon anymore.

Sea monkey · 03-18-2005, 12:41 PM

I think alot of people with TBS rock have phosphate issues. I did for a while . there are some RC threads about TBS and P04

redwinger · 03-18-2005, 02:06 PM

Maybe my water was clear to begin with. I am a stickler on clarity to begin with. It is still not where I want it to be as far as clarity. I bought the UV for parasites not water clarity. Maybe my expectations are to high when it comes to water clarity. I have allways been able to read small print on paper looking from one end to the other. I just have some small suspended particles that I see. Which from every tank I have seen is normal. To me I don't like it, but that is just me. This is just my experience with uv. As we all know all tanks are different and different equiptment will have different results for different people.

David Grigor · 03-18-2005, 02:24 PM

My defination of water clarity is not the suspended particles but the color of the water / ability for light to penetrate.

For example: If you have a white salt bucket around when you take out a gallon or so of water and put in the bucket does it have a tint to it or not.