Question's regarding All-Glass megaflow

Alero · 08-25-2005, 10:03 PM

Hello,

Well I am getting back into the hobby and bought a 90gal All-glass tank that has mfg. drilled holes. Wondering if anyone knows how loud this new overflow is?? Also, it states that the max. flow is 600gph, Anyone have any recommendations on a quality return pump in this size?? Was thinking of an Eheim. Sump would sit under the main tank.

Thinking of setting my 90gal in the living room depending on how noisy it is. States it is quieter then older design. Appreciate your comments/opinions

Thanks for your time,

Dwight

HFG · 08-25-2005, 10:43 PM

I wouldn't try to max out that flow.

redwinger · 08-25-2005, 10:46 PM

can't here mine at all on my 75 unless I am right next to it and am really listening for it.

Twins Guy · 08-25-2005, 10:51 PM

eheims are solid energy efficient pumps and can be run submersed or external which is nice. externals minimize heat transfer (usually), submersibles simplify plumbing...you'll have to weigh those benefits out before you decide external or submersible. of the submersibles i don't think you can beat eheim. externals you could go blueline/panworld, iwaki, eheim, etc...

600gph is more than enough flow through your sump anyways. you could get away with alot less (even as low as 200gph) and make things even quieter. then your other flow sources become more important-whether its a closed loop, stream, maxijets on a wavemaster-whatever.

welcome back!
tg

smeese · 08-25-2005, 11:00 PM

I agree with HFG here, Just get a good pump that runs quiet ( I like mag drives) and go less than max. You will have to use powerheads for flow or closed loop etc. Just get a pump big enough to get water from point a to point b. I set up a 75 like yours for someone, and it ran much quieter with a reduced flow. Good luck with everything! STEVE

Quote:

Originally Posted by HFG

I wouldn't try to max out that flow.

redwinger · 08-25-2005, 11:08 PM

By maxing it out you do run the risk of overflows if a snail or something else partially blocks the overflow. However IMO the more water that can be processed through the sump the better.

Alero · 08-25-2005, 11:16 PM

Yes wouldn't want an overflow onto the wood floors, the wife would frown a bit on that LOL. Have run Eheim in past and liked the performance, but seized up on me. Still the front runner I believe.

thanks for the comments

Thanks TG for the welcome back

trodder · 08-25-2005, 11:21 PM

External pumps are usually the way to go in the long run if you can. Initial plumbing requires a little more thought but afterwards if you put valves and unions on the pump then it is a cinch to pull it out for cleaning to keep the pump running strong for years to come

Twins Guy · 08-25-2005, 11:23 PM

de nada!

have fun planning that tank!

edit-now that i've gone external i'll never go back-expounding on tom's comments

Alero · 08-25-2005, 11:41 PM

have ran sump only return before so running external is new to me. Need to get the rust off my brain again for reefkeeping

HFG · 08-26-2005, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwinger

By maxing it out you do run the risk of overflows if a snail or something else partially blocks the overflow. However IMO the more water that can be processed through the sump the better.

This was what I was thinking, but less noise is nice too

HFG · 08-26-2005, 10:12 AM

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=LG2125
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=DN1125

I'd go with something like this. Its a little more flow than your over flow can handle, but then I would T off (regulated with a gate, not ball valve) back to the sump... or perhaps a future refugium or or... The cost to buy and run won't be much compaired to the next unit lower, and it gives you some room to grow.

Pump--> female screw of aprorate size to 1-1/2" slip ---> 1 - 1/2" pipe ---> a 1-1/2", 1", 1", T
from there its up to the tank, and one back to the sump.

David Grigor · 08-26-2005, 11:51 AM

For external return pump on a relatively small system, I really think for reliability/cost/energy/heat, it's really tough to beat the Ocean Runner 2500. I use on my 58g and also the 72g church tank. On larger systems I have used several brand externals my second favorite it the mak4 and uses 108w ( actual wattage from wattage meter ) to run . The OR 2500 runs only 28w, your better off running multiple smaller pumps. In/out fittings are standard 3/4" fittings so easily runs externally to minimize heat. Since the cost is pretty low, I like to keep an extra one on hand for emergency and also use if for general use such as mixing water etc. so that I could swap it out in a pinch if there was a failure.

I am in the camp that believes the return should be minimum vs. maximum. Less taxing on the overflows. The Ocean Runner 2500 really seems to fit the bill quite nicely for 125g or less tanks. I even think the 2500 is still a good choice for 125+ just use multiple pumps for redundancy, bigger single pump uses more energy and probably cost more then multiple 2500s. Leave the main circulation for corals etc. to your closed loop, wavemaker, Tunze, or what ever you choose. You basically just need enough flow so you skimmer isn't recycling the same water and your heater can be effective.

I personally have never been a fan of mag drives particularly as external ( which is the only way I run return pumps ). I just don't like the use of screws on the housing they easily strip over time and can rust. For me after a few years use, in a power outage or unplugged, I have had a hard time getting them to start back up without pounding on them. Perhaps it goes back to being afraid to clean them because of stripping the screws and start leaking.

redwinger · 08-26-2005, 12:07 PM

David, why would you want to run a slower amount of water through the overflow especially on a bb system? IMO the whole idea of BB is to get the waste out of the tank and with more water being exchanged from the display to be processed by the skimmer and filter socks it seems to be more beneficial to run a higher GPH through the overflow. Allthough there are plenty who run both ways and are succesfull, I just want to see why you think a slower amount through the overflow is more beneficial.

David Grigor · 08-26-2005, 12:19 PM

To each his own I guess. I don't like to overtax overflows. I like a minium of 2 overflows ( ideally ) and each one should independantly be able to handle the entire overflow just in case of a full or partial clog. Although with the use of strainers etc. you shouldn't ever have a full clog via a snail etc. but like to keep the bases covered. My little 58g tank is my first tank where I DON'T have 2 overflows because it is a stock RR but ideally designing a system would go with a minimum of 2.

If what you mention is a concern, your main form of circulation in the tank such as Tunze streams, closed loops, wavemaker etc. should be the main mechanism (IMO) for keeping it suspended until moved to the sump via the overflow. Since it is pretty much impossible to keep every thing fully suspended ( which would be ideal ), I honestly don't think the extra taxing on your overflow to for example squeeze an extra 500gph flow through the sump is really going to make a big difference with how much suspended material actually gets sent to the sump.

For me personally what you mention is a non-issue. I do small 6g water changes twice a week. By doing so I don't have to add any CA/Alk or other additives ( except for Kalk topoff ) water change is quick and easy for me and it usually a non-brainer as I know exactly how much of everything to put in the bucket for mixing it just takes seconds. During the water change, I siphon from the bottom of the show tank so I don't have any real issues/concerns with letting it just sit on the bottom because it doesn't stay long. Especially relative to the sandbed days where it never went anywhere just collected......