Opinions on new setup

[raven567]

Hi all. I'm in the process of setting up a 210 RR AGA. It will be mostly for lps and softies, but I do have a few sps.

Parts I have already are:
210 RR AGA tank
100g rubbermaid stock tank
Sequence 5800 pump (w/salt seals)
2---250w mh ice cap ballasts(new style) with coralvue 10k's (se)
Ice cap 660 vho ballast

My current plan is to use all four holes in the tank as drains, for safety from flooding( in case of blockage) and extra flow. Tie all 4 into a 1 1/2" pipe to the basement sump (rubbermaid).

I Figured head pressure at 18' to the top of the tank without figuring in the outlets which I'm planning on having a 1/2" spraybar at bottom rear and top front. Then 4---3/4" outlets on the back. All up and over the back of the tank.

I called sequence and they also came up with 18' of head and recommended the 5800 with 2" pipe, then throttle back a little. 5800 pump = 3100gph @ 18' minus outlet scheme.

Not sure about heaters yet. I've always used ebo-jager but have had bad luck with the last 2 I got.

Skimmer will probably be ASM G3 or G4

Ice caps will be moved to this tank. 2---6' uri actinics, 2---250w se coralvue 10k's on ends of tank and probably a 400w in the center.

Any opinions or ideas on the setup would be greatly apreciated.
I know Dave and Otolith have mentioned micro bubbles may be a problem at that flow.

Thanks Steve

[David Grigor]

As mentioned earlier. Use the sequence for a closed loop and a smaller pump for your return. No reason to waste the head/flow and push the limits of your overflows. I imagine you would have to cut out or widen the teeth of the overflows also as the water level my end up going over the top of the overflows. Using the pump in a closed loop would bypass your overflows and generate alot head pressure thus more flow.

[otolith]

I would again echo what David says. You'de be better off going with a "smaller" return pump, something that would give you around 12-1500gph turnover with the overflows. I also would become a member of the department of the redundancy department, and probably run 2, 1-1/2" returns. The rest of your flow I would recommend either a closed-loop or tunzes or else a bunch of powerheads on a wavemaker (ok, not a big fan of powerheads, but it's an option).

As far as microbubbles, big deal if you get a few here and there. Do you think SPS corals don't ever see a microbubble? I assume that you're setting up an SPS tank given all the flow you're going for.

HTH,
Derek

[Graham]

Steve,

The Titanium heaters made by Won Brothers are worth looking into as an alternative to EJs. You can get a 350W with temp controller for about $30 (with shipping) at Custom Aquatic.

[raven567]

I am a little worried about the teeth in the overflow not handling the flow. I'd also like to keep powerheads out of the tank, or at least out of view. I do have 4 mj1200's on a coral life wave timer in my 75g right now I could swap over.

Won bros. titanium is one heater I just started researching. Have you used them? Are they reliable?

Thanks for the ideas so far. This is my first tank with a sump, and I would like to set it up right the first time.

[geshields]

I would vote FOR the EJ heaters. I have 2 of the titanium heaters I now have to use to warm up my water change water. Whenever my IceCap 660 would turn on, the interference would cause the heater to turn on. Took me about 3-4 days to finally put it all together on what was causing my tank to get so warm. I called IceCap and we tried everything including ground planes and then I got an EJ heater and problem solved. The EJ's have a built i noise filter. The Won's do not. At least 2 years ago they didn't.

I would agree with David and Derek on the flow issues through the sump

Greg

[raven567]

Thanks for the reply on the heaters greg.

Seems like everyone agrees on keeping flow through the sump down below 2000gph. I hate to waste all the flow this pump puts out, but I got it on sale and it was cheaper than the 4300 and 5000 models I was originally looking at.

Maybe I can come up with a plan to use the two 1" holes for drain to the sump, and the 3/4" holes for a closed loop system.

Steve

[Graham]

Greg, was there interference even with them on different circuits?
My Icecap was interfering with my pH probe until I put them on different circuits.

The main complaint I've heard with Won Bros is that the temp control is not that accurate. IME, Ebos are not accurate, either. Plus, the temp dials stick on me all the time (hard to turn)...basically, I want to try something new. I have my 350W coming on Tuesday, so I'll see if my Icecap causes any problems. I have read that people use them with Icecaps without any problem at all. I'd think if there's an issue, perhaps using another temp controller (Ranco) would remedy the problem. Either that, or I'll return it.

[geshields]

Graham,

I can't recall if I tried diferent circuits or not. Like I said, it was 2 years ago when I first set up my tank. I know that when I was researching the problem, many others on RC were experiencing the same thing.

Greg

[geshields]

Link to thread on RC...Ewan describes exactly what was happening to mine..

Link

[T_Nuge]

I'm using a Won titanium right now and it's been working great and holding the temp steady. The temp it displays and my Pinpoint Temp probe do read 2 degrees apart though. I don't know which one is correct so one runs 79 and the other 81.
Just be careful of the dial, if the EJ's got hard to turn the Won is totally the opposite. It seems like a strong breeze can turn the dial it's so easy to turn. Many stories of people out there who accidentally turned the dial while moving a cord or something and cooking their tank.
Seems like no matter which you choose someone out there has a hooror story to tell. Thats why I've been considering a dual temp controller and using that with the Won. Should be as close to bullet proof as you can get.

Trent

[David Grigor]

Your better off getting a whole new set of holes drilled for the sequence pump on a closed loop. Leave the existing holes as originally intended for your return pump.

Your going to waste alot of flow potential trying to uss the supplied 2 3/4" fittings on a pump like that. I would stick with not reducing at all and going with 2 1.5" return bulkheads for the closed loop so the output is not as direct and no chance of reducing flow.

At minimum would not go any smaller than 2 1" outputs but even then your probably reducing the flow capabilities of your pump......

[trodder]

I can add to the Won Brothers heaters... I have a 500w (on a 30gal... I know a little extreme but I had a problem where my EJ one day decided it could not keep up anymore.) I believe that because my basement is always a bit cooler than the rest of the house I needed a heater that was more durable and powerful enough so it did not have to run full steam all of the time. So I bought a Pro Heat or whatever by Won Brothers. It has worked Fantastic!! I like the fact that I can measure the temp of the water that drains into the sump from the overflows, while it heats the water close to the return...Also you should not have an interference problem since your lights (IceCap) will be upstairs close to your tank and the heater downstairs where your sump is...I would go with the Won Bros heater. I got mine from Premium Aquatics for a great price... HTH..

[trodder]

ohh in case you are wondering about the references to the basement.... I too have a remote sump with main display tank upstairs... so we are in same boat so to speak...

[David Grigor]

I personally regardless of what heater you go with would use on a seperate temp controller. I just don't trust the settings on the heaters regardless of brand. When you hear horror stories regarding heaters it's most always the heater failed in the on position and cooked the tank.

I would especially advise like in Trodder's case where you have plenty of heating power that could spell disaster....