Look over my sump plan please - Page 5

David Grigor · 08-31-2004, 01:05 PM

Brian, I know you already built it but you may consider this. Especially once you get it in place and do a test run of power failure.

Consider removing the two baffles that extend from the bottom up. Leaving just the one that doesn't go all the way to the bottom.

Reason:

What you have done is forced the water level 3/4 of the height of you sump. Which doesn't leave much room for water to rise when a power failure.

Also, your evaporation level is going to be in the center compartment in the current configuration. So you have less time to react before the return pump runs dry if your evaporation level get too low. Without those bottom up partitions the evaporation level would be the entire sump volume ( less the refugium ) before the pump would run dry. So even if you do setup an automatic top off if it were to malfunction you have more time to catch it before the pump runs dry.

Skimmer location. Rotate the skimmer 180 so the output portion is close as possible to the side of the sump that way more of the bubbles will be gone before reaching the return pump.

PS: I have never been a fan of the bottom up baffles and only recommend them when you in fact have a problem with bubbles reaching the return pump in very tight situations. Always try without first, in your plumbing tests you can always add on an as needed basis.

I have a 20g long sump on a 125g tank with no baffles at all and not bubble problems.

AnemicOak · 08-31-2004, 01:28 PM

Thanks for giving me some stuff to think about David.

I guess I built it the way I did because that's how almost every sump plan or photo I've seen is. I won't know if I have bubble issues or not until I have saltwater in there right? FW won't do it, testing wise that is right? I just hear such horror stories about micro bubbles.

~Brian

David Grigor · 08-31-2004, 02:11 PM

You can do a FW test but the skimmer won't produce fine bubbles so you won't likely know until you add the salt. If I understand correctly and refugium overflows into the return area, this most likely will be your bubble culprit not the other side.

Sumps like many things in this hobby often get over engineered.....

Just to reiterate, before you add your livestock and salt, here are the two test to do.

1. Run the system at full water levels. Turn power off. Can the sump handle to overflow ? If not either lower the height of the bottom baffles or via siphon holes reduce the amount of water backflow before the siphon breaks or check valve ( absolute last resort).

2. At full water levels with return pump running. Get a gallon container and remove water from the system one gallon at a time until the return pump no longer runs. This will tell you how much evaporation can happen before the pump runs dry. The more gallons you can pull out before running dry the better. Once you determine your tank evaporation this will tell you how often to check it the sump level ( even if you have automatic topoff ) to make sure functioning properly.

If you happy with both of those test then add your livestock......

AnemicOak · 08-31-2004, 07:23 PM

Thanks for the testing info. I got how to do it in theory, but your message makes it easier to visualize it all.

I'm struggling right now with ripping the baffles out of my sump. They were kind of a pain to put in, I'd hate to rip them out & then have to put them in again.

Anyone run one of those Durso-ish mods on their ER skimmer?

~Brian

David Grigor · 09-01-2004, 12:33 AM

Leave them in until you've done the water test then make the decision.

AnemicOak · 09-06-2004, 08:56 PM

I've been working on my plumbing today. Here is what the drain plumbing looks like...

Everything is glued up to the valves. I'm wondering if I should be trying to figure out a way to attach this to the bulkhead without glueing it or if I should just go ahead & glue it?

otolith · 09-06-2004, 09:20 PM

I would go without a valve on your main return. Doesn't make sense to me to restrict flow out of a tank. Seems like you're asking for trouble if you do that. Otherwise, just connect it to the bulkhead without gluing it --if you have a slip bulkhead, flip it around so the long end is pointing up, then just fit them together. It shouldn't leak.
HTH,

AnemicOak · 09-06-2004, 10:22 PM

Well it's a little late to take the valve off, it's already glued in. It's not there to restrict flow, but was recommended so the entire overflow doesn't drain into the sump if I need to clean the All-Glass Dursolike standpipe.

It is a slip fit bulkhead. I think I get what you're saying about reversing it, but still don't know if I trust it to hold all that plumbing in place when the weight of water is in it.

otolith · 09-06-2004, 10:29 PM

Trust me, it will.

mnreefgeek · 09-06-2004, 11:07 PM

I used some silicone on mine as a lube/ seal. Haven't had a leak, knock on wood, yet.

otolith · 09-06-2004, 11:36 PM

Hey Chad, how's the setup coming along? My basement looks a lot different from the last time you were here.

/Now it wouldn't be right if I didn't try to take a thread of course now, would it?

mnreefgeek · 09-07-2004, 08:46 AM

Still planning. I will get the ball really rolling after the wedding. I fear that if an unexpected expense came up and the money was tied up in new lights, I may not have a tank to watch. Funny how she just doesn't get it sometimes.......