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Old 08-26-2004, 11:02 AM   #46
trodder
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honestly I am not sure if that will work or not...maybe someone else can chime in on letting the water spill over instead of through something
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:20 AM   #47
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A 40 tooth or more carbide blade will work.
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:38 PM   #48
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I was going to split the drain & have it dump into the skimmer section & the fuge using a ball valve (or gate valve) to tweak the flow into the fuge. I just noticed a problem. The way the tank is drilled the drain & return holes are exactly in line & if I T'd off the drain the part running to the fuge would run smack dab into the return line. I guess I could split the return instead? Which is better for the fuge, drain water or return water? Does it matter?

Anyone know of someplace that sells pvc globe valves?


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Old 08-26-2004, 01:29 PM   #49
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if you split the return then you are taking away flow from your display tank, so make sure that flow and head pressure is not and issue. To solve your issue is run a straight line from your drain and use some flex tubing somewhere in that line so you can move it out of the path of the return line so that you can T that line. The other issue I had is how level the T part of the line is, making it difficult to get a lot of flow into the fuge if needed. I would recommend finding a way to tip that T towards the fuge side since it is controlled with a valve. By the way I used a ball valve and it works okay but a gate valve will give you more control. I hope my explination made sense.
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Old 08-26-2004, 01:41 PM   #50
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Thanks, yeah that make sense. Didn't even think of using flex tubing. I get that a gate gives more control than a ball. What I'd really like to find is a globe valve. Those are supposed to be the best for controlling flow.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:23 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trodder
honestly I am not sure if that will work or not...maybe someone else can chime in on letting the water spill over instead of through something
I supposed I could maybe put slots/teeth at the top of the fuge divider, would that work? I can add another baffle or something too if that's what folks suggest. I've got plenty of acrylic here.


So here's where I'm at right now. Hopefully I can get the sump worked out so that I can get going on building the thing.




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Old 08-26-2004, 11:40 PM   #52
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Would something like this work on the fuge side?
http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/teeth.html
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:43 PM   #53
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Yes, your sump will be excellent. Don't worry any more about the planning...go build it now!!!


/jealous that my sump is just an acrylic box
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Old 08-28-2004, 11:58 PM   #54
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I'm baaaack!


I've started putting this sucker together. I've had to make the skimmer area a little bigger than I'd planned so that's bringing up a question. After the skimmer area & the baffles I'll have about 16" of tank length left. I'm afraid to make the return area to small as I don't want evaporation to run it dry. So now some questions.

How small can a fuge get before it's simply not worth it?

Do you think I could just split this 16" area & be ok or should the return area be bigger than that?

Should I just skip the fuge, put the skimmer in the large 16" area & the return in the other?

How hard is it to setup an auto top off?

Am I even going to be able to fit heaters & stuff in here?

I have two main concerns, which may be unwarrented. I worry about having enough room in the sump in case the power goes out & I worry about evaporation running the return pump dry.


I know you all probably think I worry to much, but I want to get it right. I guess I could maybe go get a 30 gallon tank.


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Old 08-29-2004, 11:52 AM   #55
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Some heaters may be an issue to get in there...just measure whatever heater you got or want to get and see if it is possible to make it fit. My heater only fits by sliding it in the return part at an angle. But you will maybe want to make sure you can fit a float valve in the return part as well for an auto-topoff.
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:05 PM   #56
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Well it's done...



...hope did ok.


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Old 08-29-2004, 11:13 PM   #57
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Looks great! THat should work well. How'd you get your hand in there to silicone the baffles?
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:21 AM   #58
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Quote:
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How'd you get your hand in there to silicone the baffles?
I put a piece of cardboard against the outside of the tank (on each side) at the appropriate spot (to give me a straight edge) & ran a generous bead of silicone. I then brought the piece forward until it hit the silicone (kind of seated into it) & then siliconed the other side normally. Hope that makes sense.


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Old 08-31-2004, 12:43 AM   #59
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Old 08-31-2004, 07:18 AM   #60
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Lookin' good Brian.
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