Look over my sump plan please - Page 3

otolith · 08-24-2004, 10:45 PM

Having had to remove acrylic overflows that I had siliconed in to a glass tank, I can assure you that it will be strong enough for your application...

I also like your sump design. You should easily be able to control the amount of flow through your refuge that way, and don't have to worry about it overflowing some where.

aka_bigred · 08-24-2004, 10:50 PM

OK then. Maybe it was just the silicone that I've run into.

AnemicOak · 08-24-2004, 11:08 PM

I bought a ball valve to control the flow with, that's all HD had. Sould that be ok or should I return it & get a gate valve from Menards?

Quote:

OK then. Maybe it was just the silicone that I've run into.

I don't think you'd want to use it in a higher pressure setting, like building a tank, just for stuff like overflows & baffles.

AnemicOak · 08-24-2004, 11:10 PM

A few questions from above I'm hoping someone can answer

So from reading your description, Trodder, you did a baffle setup on the fuge side too?

A few people have said I should try to incorporate a way to place a carbon bag into the sump if needed. Any ideas? Good idea?

I was originally going to just have a drain & return section on this, thinking there was no room for a fuge, but most folks have said the fuge doesn't need to be huge for my setup. True?

Which section would I put heaters & stuff in on this thing?

Jive Turkey · 08-24-2004, 11:16 PM

Anemic- put the heater in a high flow area but keep it away from the skimmer pump which will make the heater give false readings.
Also, the ball valve is for stopping flow and the gate is for adjusting, for the most part.

As for the carbon bag mounting, making a little cage for the bag to sit in that hangs over the side of the fuge, with the sides of the bag held up on the edges with plastic zipties thru the crate. Let the drain pipe rest over this so the flow goes thru it, dissapating bubbles and keeping the carbon stirred up. A regular carbon bag or a micron bag/sock will work. I am trying the 100 Micron sock now for the first time.

And for the pressure concerns, don't put too much thought into it. You can always double up the acrylic and lay super fat beads of silicone.

Joe

clownfishcrazy · 08-25-2004, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twins Guy

devin you're so ghetto

I cut the acrylic with a skill saw so the pieces don't fit the best.

Twins Guy · 08-25-2004, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clownfishcrazy

I cut the acrylic with a skill saw so to pieces to fit the best.

is that ebonyx?
tg

trodder · 08-25-2004, 02:34 PM

I just had Greg cut pieces of acrylic to my specs so that I would not have to cut the acrylic with a skill saw so to pieces to fit the best.?.? Also to answer your question about the fuge side baffles... I had the wall for the fuge go all the way to the top, then I drilled a two rows of holes all the way across so that the first row would be the drain and the second row is for redundancy if the holes get plugged. This kept me from having drill a larger hole to put a bulkhead with a strainer on it. The hole size needs to be big enough for full grown pods to get out but nothing else if possible. from the there I have a baffle to the left of the wall that is on the bottom and the next to the left is about 1 1/2" from the bottom...at least I think that is how they are. I'll have to check when I get home.

clownfishcrazy · 08-25-2004, 03:26 PM

I have no idea what I was thinking, but I edited it so that it makes sense.
Here is my ghetto skimmer collection cup:

clownfishcrazy · 08-25-2004, 03:29 PM

I had to modify (spelling?) it cause it sits next to the trickle tower, otherwise it wouldn't fit. The tape is to hold it together until glue sets.

AnemicOak · 08-25-2004, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trodder

I just had Greg cut pieces of acrylic to my specs so that I would not have to cut the acrylic with a skill saw so to pieces to fit the best.

I've got an "acrylic cutter" from HD. Is that not going to work on 1/4" stuff? I assumed cutting this would be just like cutting the thinner stuff. Just score & snap.

~Brian

David Grigor · 08-25-2004, 06:10 PM

You can do it that way but I have never been able to get precise cuts that way. Best to use a table saw.

AnemicOak · 08-25-2004, 07:36 PM

Well I have access to a table saw to so that'll work. Any concern with melting anything that way?

clownfishcrazy · 08-25-2004, 11:35 PM

You need a special blade for acrylic it has to have 80 teeth or more.

AnemicOak · 08-26-2004, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trodder

Also to answer your question about the fuge side baffles... I had the wall for the fuge go all the way to the top, then I drilled a two rows of holes all the way across so that the first row would be the drain and the second row is for redundancy if the holes get plugged. This kept me from having drill a larger hole to put a bulkhead with a strainer on it. The hole size needs to be big enough for full grown pods to get out but nothing else if possible. from the there I have a baffle to the left of the wall that is on the bottom and the next to the left is about 1 1/2" from the bottom...at least I think that is how they are. I'll have to check when I get home.

Ok, so I need something in my plan to let Pods out, but not other stuff? Just having the water flow over the side of the fuge is bad? Still not sure I'm getting it.