Durso question...

cmhouser · 09-19-2005, 02:39 PM

Hello - I have built a durso pipe for a 90 gal RR tank I recently purchased. Water seems to flow just fine but I get a gurgling sound and the water level in my over flow goes up and down.

Now I read several of the symptoms on his site http://www.dursostandpipes.com however on my return drain I have it maybe 3" beneath the water level plus have drilled several holes above the water level to aleviate back pressure. Plus I have it hard PVC'd with it angles coming into the sump.

Has anyone had similar problems where the issue isn't either problem listed above? Thanks!

coldwaterreefer · 09-19-2005, 02:42 PM

talk to skip i know you got the tank from him he has a great setup to help with that problem.

brett

aka_bigred · 09-19-2005, 02:53 PM

How big are the holes you drilled?

I had to make alot more air intake than I thought I would have to in order to stop the fluxuation.

cmhouser · 09-19-2005, 02:56 PM

Umm - I think the holes are 1/8 and I drilled about 5 so far.

trodder · 09-19-2005, 02:57 PM

what is 3" below the water level??? Is the durso insode the overflow box (i.e. tank is drilled on bottom.) or is durso outside the tank (i.e. tank is drilled in the back.)

Schwaggs · 09-19-2005, 02:59 PM

Did you make the Durso out of pipe one size larger than the bulkhead it drains through?

the_colonel · 09-19-2005, 03:06 PM

Do you have a hole in the cap at the top of the standpipe?

David Grigor · 09-19-2005, 03:14 PM

As JP mentioned, you need to tweak the hole on top of the durso standpipe. Currently it is too small not letting enough air in the duros starts a siphon thus the level goes up and down.

With regards to the plumbing in the sump. You want the output to be at or slightly above the normal water level. To lessen the bubbles in your sump. You can have the plumbing go under the water but make a U shape so the output is just at or just slightly below the water line. When you output goes straight down the air bubbles collide with each other. The advantage of the U is so all the bubbles are moving in the same direction ( UP ) with no collision. This reduces salt spray, noise, and amount of bubbles in the sump because all the air bubbles are already at the water level they dissipate quicker.

cmhouser · 09-19-2005, 03:20 PM

Just to clarify - the durso is in the overflow and the tank is drilled through the bottom with one inch bulkheads. The durso pipe is 1 1/4 PVC which I have about a 1/4" hole drilled through the top. I started with a 1/16 inch hole and went larger to try and bring the water level up in the overflow box as the overflowing water was loud. I then have the drain hard pvc'd into into my sump about 3" beneath the water level with about 5 1/8" holes drilled a little above the current water level in an effort to try and stop the gurgling and raising/lowering of the water level in my overflow.

David Grigor · 09-19-2005, 03:29 PM

If the water level in your overflow is going up and down, then the hole in your cap is not big enough.

You can reduce the noise and bubbles in the sump by placing a U shape instead of the tube coming straight down into the sump so the air bubles entering the sump are not colliding with the ones trying to rise.

JnS · 09-19-2005, 04:23 PM

Schwaggs- nice blasto

did Skip not give you the original stand pipes?
drill 1/4" hole and put a adjustable john gust fitting on it to adjust it if needed.

Skipponator · 09-19-2005, 05:48 PM

I put a threaded endcap on and a barbed fitting, then I hooked hose up to it and ran it under my tank and put a ball valve, that way I could adjust it however I wanted so if I ever changed pumps I could easily make it handle anyhting I gave it with little work. Plus you may get a little whistle or noise from a drilled hole on endcap, with the hose the noise disappears.

No I didn't give him the Durso cause it's in my 125.

cmhouser · 09-19-2005, 06:33 PM

K - I'll try drilling a larger hole this evening and snag an adjustable valve to regulate.

Skip - I SHOULD have ran (and might be going forward) a flex hose rather than hard PVC'd the drain. I was trying to tighten the bulkhead on the 20 L you brought over and the whole tank cracked at the bulkhead. Needless to say it was not fun ripping out the PVC to put in a new sump tank. Such is life.

Skipponator · 09-19-2005, 08:26 PM

When you tighten the bulkheads, just get it snug. Sorry you cracked it Superman! I ran 1" braided from bulkhead to pump, then 1" braided from pump to return, I had the pump suspended in the air too, made it more quiet and better cooling surface.

Loverotties · 09-19-2005, 10:51 PM

Bigger holes or more!