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10-26-2004, 04:13 PM
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#3
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Got Crabs?
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 5,526
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Thanks that was what I was thinking. Wanted to make sure being new to all this.
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10-27-2004, 10:16 AM
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#8
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TCMAS Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brooklyn Center, MN
Posts: 5,665
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Like others have mentioned you don't want to run carbon too often. As the carbon does pull out some beneficial trace elements as well as pollutants....
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10-27-2004, 12:41 PM
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#11
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No frags for you!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Oakdale, MN
Posts: 945
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Quote:
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Depends on how much live rock you have. As I recall the genreral rule for elimination of mechanical filters is about 1+ lbs of live rock per gallon.
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I've heard that too, but what's the logic behind it? LR is biological filtration, so how does that cross over and cancel a need for mechanical filtration? Mechanically filtering something before it has to be biologically filtered should be better, no?
I would think you'd still be interested in removing debris from the water, with mechanical filtration as long as you don't let it all collect in the canister and turn into a sinkhole for decay. Changing a filter every few days to remove free debris particles should lower your available orgainics and entry of nitrates into the system, rigth? Isn't that the hole theory behind protein skimmers: remove it before it breaks down & polutes the water quality.
Anyone care to respond & enlighten me?
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10-27-2004, 12:53 PM
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#12
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Lost in Reeeeef
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: The Reeeeef
Posts: 2,401
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I think you are mixing terms.
THe can filters are more biological than mechanical...
The sponge you have on the intake SHOULD be the mechanical filteration and the stuff in the can SHOULD be the biological, (from what I understand (im only going to say from what I understand once here, but you can take it as said for everything...)).
Can filters do such an amazingly good job at the first part of Nitrogen cycle that the second part cant keep up.
LR has the advantage of doing the arobic and anarobic in a more even and consistiant state.
It certianly does not hurt to have mechanical filteration (pulling out large pieces of crap). You just need to wash/change it quite often so it doesnt become chemical filteration (bacteria colonys take hold). Skimmers are mechanical filteration... Mechanical basically means take right out of the system... vs proccesing in the system.
Carbon is another chemical (because the carbon sucks out chemical stuff). But you dont want that to be in for more than a few days. If you do it will grow lots of arobic bacteria which will proccess much faster than the anarobic bacteria. Corals are sensitive to which ever biproduct the arobic fellas excreet (Always forget which NO2 NO3?? is which). See for fish only, which are more tolarable to the first biproduct (and folks often overstock FO so there is a ton of amonia wich is absolutly a killer), that things like wet dry ... drip drip ect is fine and dandy.
I am nost sure i got all the names there right.. but it is in the right direction for your answer and I am sure the SW books will have this in their Nitrogen cycle sections.
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10-27-2004, 12:54 PM
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#13
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Co-President
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagan
Posts: 1,205
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Biological filtration is the key. If you have a pound or two of good live rock per gallon, and plenty of flow moving around it ,that should be sufficent for biological filtration. A canister or other power filter stuffed with filter floss makes a good mechanical filter, however (just like carbon) you may not want to run it constantly cause it might take out too much good stuff. Also IMO if you have a heavily stocked reef tank or if you have some large waste producing fish you might want to run some supplement biological filtration such as bio balls or sponge blocks. I dont think live rock is enough in a heavily stocked tank.
Scott
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10-27-2004, 01:11 PM
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#14
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No frags for you!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Oakdale, MN
Posts: 945
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I think I made my first post above was made with too much haste. I got the whole LR vs Carbon filtration theory and yes, as you mention it, you're right-there's a significant amount of biological filtration that takes place with carbon filters. Maybe it's the way my can filter's designed that lead me down this path of confusion.
It's a Magnum with the tightly woven paper mesh filter that seems to be doing most of the filtering. I toss in some carbon packs as well to suppliment that paper filter. I guess I seem to consider it mechanical filtration with some biological filtration thrown in "as long as your at it". I think mine's meant more for water polishing than biological filtration, hence my confusion.
I guess it's more a matter of clarification (doh!)
Thanks for the help
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10-27-2004, 01:32 PM
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#15
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Lost in Reeeeef
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: The Reeeeef
Posts: 2,401
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Ah you see magnums are provided with 2 sets of stuff.
1 carbon bucket (platic mesh container).
2 that paper filter.
The first is for chemical filteration. On a salt water tank you would run that for 3 days then give it a rinse with hot water to kill the bacteria off, if you are using LR for your main proccessing. If you dont have much LR you could let the carbon grow bacteria i guess.. or you could put some other media in the bucket.
The paper filter is used alone. You might run it a few hours here or there or use it wile siphoning crap. It wasn't really designed for long term use. There is some diatom(sp) powder or somthing you can use in conjunction with this... consult something elsefor more detail...
but what this filter is, is a fine mesh to get out really small particals out of the water. I am not really sure if this was ever inteded for SW or not. Lots of folks in the FW love it because it can get your water sparkly clear. I would think for a reef tank that these small creatures n stuff would be wanted in the tank. Its the large poo and detached macros you want out of the water.
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