400watt Ballasts? - Page 3

redwinger · 08-25-2005, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tico mike

Holy Crap John.

Redundancy my friend

Lights on one circuit
pumps on one circuit
and misc equiptment on one circuit

Skipponator · 08-25-2005, 09:18 PM

Before I set up my 125 I put in 2 seperate 20amp circuits. 1 for the ReefKeeper, one for a chiller if I ever need/do get one(until then, I run all other equipment on that circuit) and then I still have the room's 15amp circuit to my avail.

David Grigor · 08-25-2005, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwinger

Redundancy my friend

Lights on one circuit
pumps on one circuit
and misc equiptment on one circuit

You mean all pump except 1 on the pump circuit, right ? You want at least one pump/powerhead on a different circuit just in case the circuit breaker were to trip.

redwinger · 08-25-2005, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Grigor

You mean all pump except 1 on the pump circuit, right ? You want at least one pump/powerhead on a different circuit just in case the circuit breaker were to trip.

Thats right. I am thinking of just the one of the tunze's on a seperate circuit.

tico mike · 08-26-2005, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwinger

Redundancy my friend

Holy Crap John.

otolith · 08-26-2005, 05:53 AM

Holy Crap John.

otolith · 08-26-2005, 08:20 AM

As David mentioned, make sure one of the pumps is on the same circuit as your lights. If the pumps go and the lights stay on=cooked tank and an unhappy John.

Skipponator · 08-26-2005, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otolith

As David mentioned, make sure one of the pumps is on the same circuit as your lights. If the pumps go and the lights stay on=cooked tank and an unhappy John.

I never thought of that, thanks I am going to go downstairs and do that!

redwinger · 08-26-2005, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otolith

As David mentioned, make sure one of the pumps is on the same circuit as your lights. If the pumps go and the lights stay on=cooked tank and an unhappy John.

Going to put the aquacontroller temp probe in the main dislay so if the return does fail for some reason and I am not around and the lights stay on and the tank starts to heat up with just the tunze running the aquacontroller will pick up on it and start shutting down the lights. If the temp probe was in the sump and the return failed it would have no way of telling the temp of the display, that is why I like it up in the display. So that gives me a added back up and if the return does fail tank heats up to 83 and the lights start shutting down, tank does not cook and that = happy John.

salty65gal · 08-26-2005, 02:11 PM

[quote=redwinger]Going to put the aquacontroller temp probe in the main dislay= smart John [quote]

Twins Guy · 08-26-2005, 02:26 PM

cool deal-that kit that bob referenced earlier at hellolights-the ARO cubicus ballast...

when you buy the ballast or retro kit you get an xm bulb free right now-first 500. with the 400W ballast you can choose from 10, 15 or 20K. not sure about the bulb options with the 250 or 175. hell of a deal though...like 140 for the ballast, spider reflector, cord, mogul socket and a bulb of your choice...

just got the email and thought i would pass on the offer-
tg

otolith · 08-26-2005, 03:09 PM

all of you who did this=smart asses.

redwinger · 08-26-2005, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otolith

all of you who did this=smart asses.

JnS · 08-30-2005, 11:15 PM

how about the ice cap 400's?

redwinger · 08-30-2005, 11:51 PM

Jerry have you used these? Do you know any one that has? I am really thinking about trying a magnetic ballast this time around and seeing how it goes. If I don't like the magnetics I will switch back to electronic ballasts like the blueline or Ice cap.