Poll: Help me pick my lighting configuration

georgiajams · 04-22-2003, 04:34 PM

Poll: Should I get

2x250MH + 2x96 PC (or)
2x400MH + 2x96 PC

The tank is a 120g tank with corner overflows. 24in deep x 52 long. I want to be able to keep just about anything. (I know about "chemical warfare" cited previously. The point isn't that I would have all at once necessarily, but I just don't want to be totally limited to only softies if I'm dropping almost a grand on lighting.) If I can get the hardier versions of anenomes, clams, SPS, and LPS I'll be happy. Tank will be run with an open top.

Yes, more is better, but considerations are heat (in the smallish room as well as the tank), and I don't want to waste electricity on running more lights than I need. BTW, can someone put some general estimate on the difference in an electricity bill between 700 watts and 1000 watts of lighting for 10 or so hours a day? I know it would vary based on electric company, but some estimated range would be helpful.

The 250 option is about 5.8 watts/gal.
The 400 option is about 8.3 watts/gal.

Let me know if you need any more info. I'm sort of looking for anecdotal experiences like "I ran with 250's over my 120 for 6 months, then ditched them for the 400's" or "I run with 250's and my 120g tank is thriving even with my demanding corals". Any input is appreciated though.

My only frame of reference is when I upgraded from 55w to 220w of PC over my 37g. Big difference. However, I don't know that 300 watts difference over a 120 is going to make or break anything. I tend to doubt it, but let me know. I've been keeping a lookout and I seem to see about an equal number of folks using both setups with success.

ckreef · 04-22-2003, 04:46 PM

I voted for the 250's

Build your reef high on one side and 1/2 high on the other. Then you have three light environments

1) in the sand (low light)
2) 1/2 high (medium intensity)
3) high reef (full intensity and the 250 should be plenty)

Also the 400's will put out alot more heat than the 250's and if you even think heat might be a problem deal w/ the issue now not latter.

JMHO

Charles

MyReef · 04-22-2003, 05:32 PM

I voted for the 2x400 option. I currently have 2x250 with VHO actinics on my 150 with a center 400 watt halide. If I had to do it over, I would have 2x400....and still may sell my 250 watt ballast and do 400's. My tank is 60x24x24, so it isn't that different. I think you will like the 400's more intense lighting near the bottom of the tank, unless you plan on keeping some corals/shrooms that won't need all that light.....

Rick O · 04-22-2003, 05:33 PM

I voted for 250's also because of the heat issue. There's hardly anything you won't be able to keep provided you choose the correct bulb.

Ray1214 · 04-22-2003, 05:41 PM

I prefer the 2X250's. I think the 2X400's would be a heat issue.

AquaticCo · 04-22-2003, 08:32 PM

I agree go with the 250's

Doug

Joel · 04-22-2003, 10:00 PM

When I redo mine it'll be with 400s and a chiller. I currently have 2 175s and thats enough heat (2 degree swing with fans and 1/2 open top/open back canopy). I don't think I could even get away with 250s now without a chiller. I wish I had waited til I could afford the chiller last time before I bought lights.

MsReeReee · 04-23-2003, 03:24 AM

Well if u are looking at the heat issue then u need to go with the 250s................I have a 125 and i have 2 175s on the ends and 1 250 in the middle and it is a lot of light

georgiajams · 04-23-2003, 08:34 AM

Hey, this is just the feedback I wanted. Thanks to everyone on both sides. Not knowing what kind of heat I'd be looking at, this was really useful. Sounds like I will be happy with the 250's (but will always wonder in the back of my mind what things would look like with 2 400's and a chiller. HAHA)

The room is a dedicated fish room, but it is small. Like a very small bedroom. It is in a finished basement so it stays fairly cool down there year round, but the circulation only consists of one little room AC duct (no windows). So, I better be conservative on the heat for now.

I like the suggestion of having different zones. I will have some low light'ers in there, so again the 250's will likely be a good choice.

Quote:

There's hardly anything you won't be able to keep provided you choose the correct bulb.

Rick or Aquaticco, which one is the "correct" bulb (or at least... what does one use as considerations to choose the "correct" bulb).

-Chris

wildernet · 04-23-2003, 08:45 AM

I am in a similar situation and I am going to go withe the 250w option. Another thing that you could consider to set up different lighting zones is the position of you lights. Changing how far or how close the lights are to the top of the tank will change the degree at which your tank will be lighted.

/ \ / \ / \ / \
/~~\~~~/~~\~ / \ / \
/ \ / \
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

However this will also affect the water temp.

wildernet · 04-23-2003, 08:45 AM

WOW that did not work as planned!!!

Phantom Phish · 04-23-2003, 10:17 AM

I hate to confuse the issue for you, but the 400's may not be as much of a heat issue as you think. It can be done, and without a chiller...

I have two 400 watt MH's (10k) and two 36" VHO actinics over a 105 gal tank thats 28 inches deep. I have these lights in an enclosed canopy (open in the back) that's basically a standard Oceanic 4 foot canopy that I modified by building a "lip" for it to sit on, thereby giving me more height inside the canopy. The lights sit about 10 inches above the water surface, and I installed two icecap fans in the back of the canopy for air circulation.

My set up is also in my basement, and is airconditioned in the warmer months. Air temp. rarely gets above about 73 to 75 degrees down there year round.

I also have a 55 gallon sump and another 55 gallon refugium/macroalgae tank all plumbed together with the 105 gallon display tank. The return pumps for the display tank and refugium, and my skimmer pump, are all submersible. And despite all that, not only do I not need a chiller, I have to run two heaters in my sump to keep the temp up to 79-80 degrees. My total evaporation is about 1.5 to 2 gal per day, which combined with my total water volume and the room air temperature of 73-75 degrees in my basement , is probaly what keeps my water temp down.

I'm not saying that you should go with the 400s, although that may be better if you want to keep M. crocea clams on the sand bottom, but if you can keep enough air circulation in your fish room and keep the room temperature in the 73 to 75 degree range, heat may not exclude you from using 400s.

Don't you love this hobby, so many choices, and often no clear right or wrong answers!

AquaticCo · 04-23-2003, 11:51 AM

Well now you bring up another can of worms. Do you go with HQI which gives you a whiter light I.M.O. or with mogul bulbs. The two most popular moguls are the 10K's and the Iwasaki 6.5K's. Rick is using the 6.5K's on his show tank and 10K's on the prop tank. I forget which ones. Now of course there are different manufacturers of bulbs, Hamilton, AB, Ushio just to name a few. Each will give you a slightly different color.

I personally have not decided what to put on my new 70. I'm torn betwenn the HQI 10K's and the Hamilton 10K's. Then theres T5's .....and so on and so on. I think I'm leaning tword the Hamilton 10K's due to heat issues on the HQI's.

Best bet is to look at other peoples tanks and see what you like best. Oh ya....don't forget about your ballast options also...

Doug

MegaDeTH · 04-23-2003, 09:43 PM

Running 2x400w radiums on my 75g, adding another 400w iwasaki in a week or two

All I keep is sps fwiw

wasabi · 04-23-2003, 09:54 PM

You will always desire more light. i have 400s on my tank now 4- 400s over a 335 and im contemplating 6. with enough air movement and temp regulation you can always find a way to regulate your temp. without a chiller. if you can mount a decent fan in your canopy you'll be fine with 400s. fwiw i have a 250 over a frag tank and its not enough light for me.