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Old 04-17-2003, 10:16 AM   #1
Ray1214
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Dwarf Seahorses


realdwarfseahorse · The Real Dwarf Seahorse

I started one of those Yahoo groups with the name above. I guess I am trying to see if there is an interest in this area for raising them besides Jenn, since I just had another Brood on April 15th.
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Old 06-14-2004, 12:32 PM   #2
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i have hust started a 5.5 gallon tank with 3" live sand bed and about 4 lbs of live rock. I have a good amount of caulerpa that is growing in this tank. I am looking to purchase some of these little creatures, do you know where i can find some?
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Old 06-14-2004, 03:12 PM   #3
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One place is in Florida, I think http://www.zosterae.addr.com/ is a good place. There is another one...aqualand but I forget the link.

Be careful of the caulerpa I had a hydroid infestation that wiped out a colony.

Also be prepared witht he brine shrimp

Good luck

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Old 06-14-2004, 04:28 PM   #4
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I'm thinking of setting up a dual reefugium with a seahorse section and a pod section upstream.
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Old 06-15-2004, 12:09 PM   #5
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Wow, I actually just bought a book about them; I am interested in starting a tank as well, but I still have more to learn. LOTS more...
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Old 06-15-2004, 12:15 PM   #6
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Ray, I noticed the Beginners Starter Kit on that page that looks pretty cool. It has Seahorse food, sea-mix, (for 1 gal.) hitching post, seashell collection for aquarium decoration, illustrated 24 pages seahorse booklet, brochure & instructions, and of course a mated pair of dwarfs...all for only $36. How does that sound?

Also, what would be a good sized tank in your opinions for a pair of dwarfs?

Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:52 PM   #7
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Size for two dwarfs...


You could keep two pairs in a 2 gal tank. They are small. I kept about 5 pairs in a 3 gal, then about 30 of them in a 15 gal tank. Makes feeding easier, be carefull of flow.

they are small, and the smaller the tank the better for the fry. They pop out about once a month. The can't move around much so food really needs to come to them.

Ray
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:59 PM   #8
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Cool. Do you feed your live brine? I read that they can be coaxed to eat frozen foods sometimes, but they still need the live brine atleast twice a week. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2004, 08:43 AM   #9
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I mixed in ZooPlankton from Kent, with the live brine, and frozen mysis (chopped up kinda fine). They didn't seem to like the dead food at all, but some adults will snick it. The babies went for Rotifers as well, but they all love live brine shrimp (Baby). Fortify the live BBS with phytoplankton, even though if you are using a day old hatch, fortifying them will be useless, since the are already fortified.

If I had to leave for a bit, I dropped some decapsulated brine shrimp eggs into the tank. The bbs would hatch and get gobbled up.

Remember to always, always decapsulate your Brine shrimp eggs. The shells get into the bbs no matter how hard you try to keep them seperate. I have seen the shells add to the pollution of a tank, as well as choke a baby seahorse.

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Old 06-16-2004, 02:27 PM   #10
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Decapsulating Brine Shrimp Eggs


Decapsulating Brine Shrimp Eggs is kinda tedious the first time around but gets easier.

Materials:

Bleach - Get the plain kind, no chemicals added. I use the cheap kinda you find at Dollar General.
White Vinegar - plain kind again.
Dechlorinating Drops - Any kind seems to work.
Brine Shrimp Nets - I use two , but one works.
Water - I use plain old tap water, but I use RO/DI water for the last rinse, I will explain a bit later.
Airline with a throttle - I use the cheap plastic valves and just a length of airline.
Air Pump - Any kind will work. Needs to be powerful enough to stir up the water.
Jar or Cup
Brine shrimp eggs - I bought a pound of them off ebay for like 40 bucks and lasts me a year or so. But you can buy small containers from most pet stores and it costs like 1.99 for a few ounces. Good to start off small too.

How to do it:

Section 1: Hydrating the cysts

1. First get a jar, i use a 16 ounce mason jar, and put about 2 tablespoons of brine shrimp cysts with about half a cup of water. The cysts will float on top of the water. Put in the airline, and throttle the valve kinda low. You want the water to be stirred up but not violently, not yet.
2. This is the most time consuming part, it will take about 45 minutes to an hour to hydrate the eggs. it will be apparent when about half of them are sinking down to the bottom, and most are not floating any more. Check on them every 15 minutes or so and use a dropper or a spoon to scrap the eggs off of the sides of the container.

Section 2: Bleaching the cysts

1. By now most if not all of the cysts are hydrated. Add about 1/4 cup of bleach to the cup/jar.
2. Open the air throttle all of the way, so that the water is stirred somewhat violently.
3. In about 5-10 minutes, your eggs should go from brown to white, then in another 5-10 minutes they will turn orange. Sometimes a bit less, sometimes a bit more.

Section 3: Rinsing the Decapsulated Eggs

1. After about 75 percent of the eggs are orange, turn off the air.
2. Get your brine shrimp net and pour the eggs into the net. Use from the tap if you want to get all of the eggs out of the jar.
3. Pour about a quarter cup of the vinegar on the eggs. This will stop the bleaching action.
4. Run the eggs under the running tap. I prefer two nets because sometimes the density doesnt always allow to much water to flow through, so i split them up.
5. Run them under water till the bleach smell is gone. I personally soak them for a min in a clean jar, inside the net, with water and add a couple drops of dechlor. I then rinse them with RO/DI water to try to get the tap water impurities out of them.
6. After I rinse them, i put them in a small tupperware container, with a very light layer of RO/Di water on top of them. They can be kept in the fridge like this for probably 6 weeks or so. I have kept them for twice that long but that is not recommended.

Section 4: Usage

I use about a 1/10 of a teaspoon in my brine shrimp hatchery. (Two litre bottle inverted type.), it takes about 12 hours to get a hatch (as oppose to the 2 days it did without decapsulating them), and no shells to choke seahorses.
I use dts phytoplankton to help enrich the ones I don't use within the first 24-48 hours, and beyond that I put them in a 5 gal bucket with a airstone to grow them out for adult fish and adult seahorses.
I also feed the decapsulated eggs to my corals.

Ray
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Old 06-18-2004, 05:25 PM   #11
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Ray

I'd definately be interested - I have 2 sea horse tanks now but have never tried to raise them.

Mike
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Old 06-18-2004, 05:51 PM   #12
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Must they eat BBS, or can they be fed regular live brine? My LFS sells live brine, but would there be a risk of hydroids?

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2004, 09:51 PM   #13
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boy that is so interesting Ray
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Old 06-19-2004, 09:53 PM   #14
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I would love to have some seahorses
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Old 08-11-2005, 02:13 AM   #15
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Not all brine shrimp nets are suitable for hatching brine shrimp. Some brands allow cysts (eggs) and nauplii (newly hatched brine shrimp) to fall through the mesh when rinsed. "Second Nature" Brand brine shrimp nets are some of the best I have used.

These links may be useful.

http://www.sfbb.com/faqs.asp Brine Shrimp Info

http://www.floridacollector.com/order.htm Seahorse Supplier

http://floridapets.tripod.com/marineplants.html Seahorse Supplier

http://www.seahorse.org/ Seahorse Forum

http://www.syngnathid.org/ Seahorse Forum

A short article I wrote a few years ago
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/...seahorses.html
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