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Big Tank Archive Tips and information on setting up BIG tanks


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Old 01-23-2003, 01:53 AM   #1
san salvador
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Let's see those 300gal reefs!


I am currently setting up a 300 gal reef and would like to see how others have done it. Plumbing details would be most benificial.

I have a Iwaki 100 serving as the main circulation
pump for a 300gal main tank and a 65gal refugium (side
by side) above a 60 gal sump. The Iwaki 100 returns to
the main tank through two 3/4" sea swirls.

I have a Iwaki 40 to run the skimmer with a bypass
returning to the main tank when skimmer is "turned
down". This pump returns to the main tank through a
spray bar.

I have a CustomSeaLife T2 to run a Nu-Clear
cannister filter with a bypass returning to the main
tank when not running the cannister filter. This pump
returns to the main tank through a 3/4" sea swirl.

I have three 400W MH pendants each with 2 PCs and four 6' VHOs for lighting.

How does this sound so far?
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Old 01-23-2003, 07:27 AM   #2
Spanky
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http://www.reefcentral.com/totm/2001-12/default.htm

San, here's a link to our tank.
What's the measurements of a 300?

Jerel
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:26 AM   #3
RWD
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Got any pics!! Sounds good so far.
So what do you estimate the total turnover rate (total gal. per hour) of your system? I'm not familiar with the flow rates of your pumps. With a reef tank 10 times tank volume per hour should be the minimum but more would be better IMO. I also have a 300 reef and have a turnover of about 15 times per hour with 3 pumps and still could us more. Your lighting is similar to mine with 3 400 watt mh and 4 75 watt vho actinics.
Also, what is the plan for the canister? Does it use a pleated cartrige? If so then it might catch a lot of good critters floating in the water. They also clog pretty fast and need to be cleaned constantly or they can turn into nitrate factories. Generally speaking, canisters are not used in reef tanks.
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:51 PM   #4
David Grigor
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320g in-wall plywood tank. Setup July 4th weekend of 2002.

Outside deminsions 96LX28HX32W,
Inside Deminsions 94.5LX26.5HX30W = 320g

As with most things in this hobby there are lots of ways to do it:

For plumbing I went with simpliest form. Two corner overflows with a single return that just goes straight up to minimize head loss. I decided on 4 external PHs ( 2X1200gph + 2X960gph ) for in-tank circulation and went with a lesser pump ( Mak4 ) for the return. Tossed around the idea of closed loops but this was a much cheaper solution than closed loop with motorized ball valves for alternating current plus kept the plumbing simple. Previous 190g tank had a 2700gph pump split to 3 returns nozzles, plumbing was less than desired because of the head loss. Very happy with new setup.

I am using 3X400W 20k Radiums spiderlight reflectors no supplementation. Light spread is fine to the human eye. No noticable dark spots. However, I really could use the 4th light as I need more real estate for high light corals.



Back side:


Last edited by David Grigor; 01-23-2003 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:57 PM   #5
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David,

What a beaut!!!!

Clean room too!
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:09 PM   #6
David Grigor
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Is this better for ya Chewie ? Tank room during the unforgetable tank upgrade weekend.......

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Old 01-23-2003, 02:25 PM   #7
chewie
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Quote:
Tank room during the unforgetable tank upgrade weekend
LOL!

You did it in just a weekend?

You don't have any pics of the top bracing do you?

Thanx for sharing!

Jon
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:29 PM   #8
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how do you make the tank out of plywood?
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:33 PM   #9
David Grigor
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Yes more than just a weekend. I did something I will never do again.....but the new tank in the same location as the old. I was totally worn out just getting the old tank ( 190g ) emptied and out of the hole ( sandbed in the tank and sump was a killer ) and that was just the beginning. Did it over July 4th weekend which was really 4 days. Didn't even get the sump up and running until 10days later...... Never goes as smooth as planned.......

This is the best pic I have showing the top bracing:



If enterested, other pics of the process can be seen at:

www.thefloodedbasement.com/tank_status
www.thefloodedbasement.com/tank_move
www.thefloodedbasement.com/tank_shots

My only mistake with the threaded rod, I was rushed for time and didn't seal them up with plasti-coat before installing the tank. Now need to be cleaned real good before sealing.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:38 PM   #10
SawCJack00
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Wow Dave, that second pic of the fish room during the move looks like my basement all of the time
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:42 PM   #11
David Grigor
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Quote:
Originally posted by aquaticsdeptleader
how do you make the tank out of plywood?
Lots of screws, food grade epoxy paint, and a prayer to the ALMIGHTY that it holds together.........
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:45 PM   #12
aquaticsdeptleader
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do you save alot (i dont know how much food grade epoxy paint costs)
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:52 PM   #13
David Grigor
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Quote:
Originally posted by aquaticsdeptleader
do you save alot (i dont know how much food grade epoxy paint costs)
I never priced out what a similiar glass/acrylic tank would run. My guess would be around $2500 tank/stand.

Tank & stand cost around $800 or little less to make ( I never officially added up all the receipts ).

As with anything if I had to do over again could build it in less than half the time.....I figure I put about 40 hours in total building it. Elapsed time was more like 3 months.

Last edited by David Grigor; 01-23-2003 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:59 PM   #14
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interesting tank looks very nice by the way

jim
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Old 01-23-2003, 03:57 PM   #15
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David, Thanks for sharing that Definatly one for the Big Tank Archives!!!!! There are always questions about how to do this and that, large tanks usually require creative solutions, and those are the ones I want to save
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Tags
ball valve , canister filter , durso pipe , evaporation rate , float valve , flow rate , vho actinics



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