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Old 07-27-2003, 05:39 PM   #16
mnreefman
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well i didnt do waterchanges either but i learned to do smallerone once a week....and i drip kalk....but inorder to get your calc and alk where they need to be get c balance by little fishies....thats what i used anyway.....but kents makes decent products... for my filterfeeders i use marine snow
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Old 07-27-2003, 06:52 PM   #17
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bonny,
I have found the even bi-weekly water changes will not keep the calcium level up so I have to add more to the system. I like Sea Chem Reef Calcium. I use that and a buffer to keep the alkalinity in check. I have a calcium reactor also but unless you have a lot of corals with a high calcium demand, you should not need one.

IMO, The two part additives like C-ballance and Warner Marines work great but can be expensive IF you have a larger tank with lot's of sps's.
Other then the calcium and buffer, I don't add anything else.
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Old 07-27-2003, 06:57 PM   #18
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thanx
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Old 07-28-2003, 08:14 AM   #19
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Have you seen this site? garf Lots of good reading and a reef "put together using another approach.

The green chromis look nice - school and everything- but they do get big and are hard to catch (any fish is) with rock in the way.

Will your tank be a fish onyl with live rock (FOWLR) or a reef? I see you are using a fluval for a filter. Most are using sumps and regugiums w/macro algae in it on a RPP (reverse photoperiod) when the main lights go off, the refugium light comes on. The macro acts as a "filter" and helps to asborb whatever is in the water - nitrates and such

opps just added two more pieces of equipment ( sorry )

just my .02
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Old 07-28-2003, 08:54 AM   #20
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Bonny,

Okay, I can't quite follow some of the threads. Here are my suggestions and again take me with a grain of salt.

I don't recommend a bicolor angel but I think you scratched off your list. The only angel that I have had that wouldn't eat any corals was a Koran Angel and a Coral Beauty. My Flame Angel picked at sps corals.and I think was the culprit nibbling my clams.

I currently have a scopas tang, a jawfish, a blue damsel and a green chromis and a rainsford goby in my tank. The damsel and chromis came from another fish only tank and was used to cycle the tank and are harder than heck to catch. The scopas tang is used to keep the macro algaes in check and mine will eat hair algae. My rainsford goby decimated a hair algae infestation and probably the most peaceful inhabitant. My jawfish is just full of personality and probably my fave fish. I also have a mandarin and a royal gramma in quarenteen which will add color. (The mandarin is over two years old and I use a refugium to supplement his diet along with rotifers, mysis shrimp, zooplankton, enriched brine shrimp).

Additives.

With the exception of feeding your corals ie; phytoplankton, baby brine shrimp, rotifers, brine shrimp, coral-vite, marine snow, etc
I only recommend using a Kalk Drip to get your calcium, pH, and Alk set up. A great side effect is that it precipitates Phosphates from the water column. I used to add Strontium, Iodine, Moly, etc...but I found that frequent small water changes kept my levels in specs. Calcium being the only exception. (I keep sps and clams). I still add iodine for my xenia which seems to suck it up but I use about half the dosage as it recoomends and my crabs and shrimp seem to appreciate it as well.
I recommend the following: Figure out what corals you may want. Most corals are gonna get the nutrients they need from photosynthesis, (ie light) and from what you feed your fish. Look on the reef tank for "Fish Mush" or "Coral Mush". Those will get my highest recommendation for feeding an easy to make homemade fish food that is full of vitamins and stuff and your corals will benefit from the highly blended concentrations. When and if you add your new light and if you get some low light corals (some leathers, xenia, mushrooms, sun polyps, etc), introduce the new light in small doses. My fave way is to get a timer, set it with a 3 hour on/off set in the middle of the day, then every week add 30 min to an hour (use your judgement, if your corals look bad, back it off), Until you get the light cycle you want. Mushrooms and xenia have been known to melt and not come back but adding too much light at once. I like to keep a high light side and a low light side. I have 110 watts on my low light side, while on my high light has a 250 watt MH and 110 watts of PC. I keep clams and sps on one side and the other is a mushroom, xenia forest. Also that is where my bumblee gobies, bangaiis have spawned when I kept them.

Hope to help

Ray
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Old 07-28-2003, 01:55 PM   #21
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k thanx for all the info everyone ! i am learning loads!
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