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Old 06-28-2003, 10:31 PM   #16
Geoff
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what else do you have in your shed.

if you do plan on the UV and skimmer than a sump will be easier. besides it will also be a great place to hide your heater. i do not know what the magic percentage for sump to display ratio. i would think you might as well build yourself another 100g tank while you are at it. i do not know what the flow for the skimmer is. if it not outrageous then you could prolly go with a much smaller sump. the sump will just need to handle the flow of skimmer and UV only. i really doubt the skimmer will be able to handle one of those haus pumps. that would be mine first step. find out what kind of skimmer that is and what is its pump requirements.

G~
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Old 06-29-2003, 01:47 AM   #17
Mastino Mike
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Thanx again. Ill be starting basic tank construction very soon so I will post some pics later. So far Im thinking of two closed loop systems and the sump with a uv and the downdraft. The downdraft was handmade so I have no Idea of the flowrate, Ill have to compare skimmers of simular size. I would question its effectiveness on a tank of this size but its probably better than nothing. I will have to run new electrical also. Ill be bugging you in about 2 weeks at the most. Thanx G and Ray.
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:10 AM   #18
RayPollett
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geoff


Ray- what you are saying is just run the tank with a CLS and nothing else? interesting. that would make for a very simple system. how often would you need to vacuum such a system? would a sump not help in the collection of the floating detritus?
I would put one of the inline filters I mentioned earlier in one or two of the closed loops. Put shut off valves on each side of the filters for serviceing them. Set up right I would not vaccum the tank. I would use a submersible water pump one or twice a year as a tropical storm to stir up the tank and clean out dead spots.

[/b][/quote]
how many CLS's would you run a system of that size. i would think 3. one for each side of the tank and one for keeping the backside of the LR clean.

thanks Ray,

G~ [/b][/quote]

I set up spray bar assemblies made from PVC on both the intakes and outflows. I like the out flows stronger than the intakes. So I make the returns shorter and with less holes. You may want more than 3 closed loops. It will depend on the filters and UV he uses, and the final size of the tank.

Ray
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Old 06-29-2003, 12:58 PM   #19
Mastino Mike
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Ray, I really want some intense lighting for the tank. I plan on using 2 400w MH and 4 55w power compacts. And maybe some shop lights. Would that be enough lighting to penetrate 4 feet of water?
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Old 06-29-2003, 01:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mastino Mike
Ray, I really want some intense lighting for the tank. I plan on using 2 400w MH and 4 55w power compacts. And maybe some shop lights. Would that be enough lighting to penetrate 4 feet of water?
I do not have a tank that is 48" deep. So I can only take an educated guess. I would use a 400W MH every 2 feet of tank space. I would then add Actinic blues in either PC or VHOs Along the front and back edges if possible. I would not use shop lights for this. Make sure you have a way to remove the heat or a chiller.

The MH do not have to be in a straight line if the tank is also deep from front to back. You may want to stagger them. You will also need to rig it so the lights can be moved out of the way when you clean the inside glass.

Ray
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