Water purification - fish only tank using a DIY Tap water filter & Poly-filter pad

larsson · 05-11-2003, 05:25 PM

http://saltaquarium.about.com/librar...omarinepad.htm

Anyone try this?

It is for a fish only tank.

Doug1 · 05-11-2003, 06:16 PM

These filters are the basis of the Cold-Sterile unit as I recall. I think if you made a cartridge filter to run tap water thru before adding it to tank or mix SW it would be better than no treatment at all

larsson · 05-11-2003, 06:21 PM

I need to get the water tested first, but I was researching RO/DI and came across this. I also looked at the deionization units for about $100 that are recharged with chemicals, but I am a bit apprehensive about working with dangerous chemicals. I don't like the waste water produced with RO.

Joel · 05-11-2003, 10:02 PM

Quote:

but I am a bit apprehensive about working with dangerous chemicals. I don't like the waste water produced with RO.

Sounds like you're trying to make excuses to yourself for not using anything but tap water. Do yourself a favor and shell out a few hundred dollars get a good ro/di unit and call it a day. As I recall my Kent Maxxima 60 wastes 3 gal to 1 good gal of water. That means if you do biweekly 10% water changes on a 200 gal tank you have used 80 gallons in a month. that is nothing compared with the savings in problems you can have with some municipal water system water. You could probably save that much water by turning your shower off 20 seconds earlier each day.

just my .02

larsson · 05-11-2003, 11:39 PM

If I were to purchase a water filtration unit, I will most likely go with just a DI unit, rather than RO. I think it would serve my purposes fine. However, you have to use muriatic acid and lye to recharge some filters, which from what I have read online are dangerous chemicals and thus, I am apprehensive about using them. From reading a lot at wetwebmedia.com, I think a DI unit will work fine. It's not a reef tank, only fish only. However, I am interested in hearing if anyone has tried the DIY tap water filter with poly-filter pads. Also, if anyone has any DIY plans for an RO/DI or just a DI unit, it would be greatly appreciated. I have found a few articles about DIY water filtration, but no solid plans.

Doug1 · 05-12-2003, 01:22 AM

Larsson, if you are thinking of DI onlt the Aquarium Pharmacuticals Tap Water Purifier is avalable on line cheap. The problem with DI only is that that the slats and other solids that bond to the resin will limit its life span. Thats why DI after an RO unit last so much longer.
Depending on how hard your tap water is a TWP can last from 50-200 gallons. A common trick is to get 2 of them and hook them in series, then replace the first one as it gets exhausted.
FWIW the recharging process is not so bad if you are equiped to deal with the chemicals, the hardest paart is the first time you have to seperate the anion from the cation resins, after that you will have them in seperate cartridges so I used a IV style bottle with the lye solution and muriatic acid to recharge each one seperatly. The biggest hassle I had was the cartridges themselves tend to leak after a few cycles.
Also if you are on muni tap water you might get a household inline carbon filter and install it on a T line in the laundry room, you can then adapt the faucet with a barbed cap that fits the hose on the TWP. The TWP has carbon and polyfilter disc inside but the other carbon filter will deal with chlorine before the DI

RWD · 05-12-2003, 07:00 AM

Larsson,
Depending on how good your tap water is you might be happy with just the di unit. BUT if the tap water is not good you will be spending a lot on DI resin. You can save some $$ by buying the resin in bulk.
BTW many people find uses for using the waste water from a RO. My father uses it in his goldfish pond. Others run a hose outside and put it in the flowerbed to water the garden. Bob

larsson · 05-12-2003, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Doug1
Larsson, if you are thinking of DI onlt the Aquarium Pharmacuticals Tap Water Purifier is avalable on line cheap. The problem with DI only is that that the slats and other solids that bond to the resin will limit its life span. Thats why DI after an RO unit last so much longer.
Depending on how hard your tap water is a TWP can last from 50-200 gallons. A common trick is to get 2 of them and hook them in series, then replace the first one as it gets exhausted.
FWIW the recharging process is not so bad if you are equiped to deal with the chemicals, the hardest paart is the first time you have to seperate the anion from the cation resins, after that you will have them in seperate cartridges so I used a IV style bottle with the lye solution and muriatic acid to recharge each one seperatly. The biggest hassle I had was the cartridges themselves tend to leak after a few cycles.
Also if you are on muni tap water you might get a household inline carbon filter and install it on a T line in the laundry room, you can then adapt the faucet with a barbed cap that fits the hose on the TWP. The TWP has carbon and polyfilter disc inside but the other carbon filter will deal with chlorine before the DI

What precautions should I take when using muriatic acid and lye? Is it just to wear gloves?

I looked at this unit and have heard good things about it from people who themselves have recharged it many times. Each time I recharge the unit, it will still last only 50 to 200 gallons...is this correct? Also, what can be done to keep the cartridges from leaking?

larsson · 05-12-2003, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RWD
Larsson,
Depending on how good your tap water is you might be happy with just the di unit. BUT if the tap water is not good you will be spending a lot on DI resin. You can save some $$ by buying the resin in bulk.
BTW many people find uses for using the waste water from a RO. My father uses it in his goldfish pond. Others run a hose outside and put it in the flowerbed to water the garden. Bob

If I bought a DI unit, it would be one I could recharge. Thanks for all your help guys

Doug1 · 05-12-2003, 09:09 AM

As far as safety precautions, HD elbow length rubber gloves, rubber apron is good as well
Goggles and a face shield, dedicated plastic bowls marked for which chemical
access to plenty of running water in case of spill or burn, and a large bucket that the recharging chemicals can drain into

larsson · 05-12-2003, 09:17 AM

Does the recharge still only last for 50 to 200 gallons or will it last longer?

Doug1 · 05-12-2003, 09:45 AM

Recharged Resin will last about same as new stuff, theoretically. I had it down to half hour recharge and flush time.
FWIW you can find the TWP filters online cheap, I got mine for $18 each when Premium Aquatics was closing them out

larsson · 05-12-2003, 09:49 AM

Can I recharge it mutiple times in one day. The aquarium is 450 gallons, so it's a lot of water. Also, I got a listing of what as in my water this morning.

ph 6.98
alk. 17
terbidity 0.017
flouride 0.94
chlorine 1.40
phosphates 0.27
iron .04
maganese .003

It will be for a fish only tank. What are your thoughts from reading the water readings? Also, what test kits as far as chemical wise are the most important when I go to test the water? I have ph, nitrite, ammonia, and KH already.

RWD · 05-12-2003, 10:59 AM

Larsson,
Are you looking into mixed bed resins? Or two separate cannisters, one with ani and one with kati resins? The reason I ask is that I "think" if you use a mixed bed you have to separate the two because they are recharged diferently. That is about all I know on the subject

BTW someone on the board (Jimbo?) bought the resin in bulk and it was very cheap compared to retail. Maybe do a search.

larsson · 05-12-2003, 11:35 AM

I have looked at the Kati-Ani 2 and the Aquatic Reef Systems tapwater DI purifier, as well as the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (spelling?) tap water filter.