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08-26-2003, 09:13 PM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: California
Posts: 146
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Salifert Ca+ Test Question
This may be dumb, but when using the Salifert Ca+ test kit, it's hard to determine the titration end point with the kind of accuracy I'd like. I know you're looking for a change from hot pink to clear blue, but do you stop at the very first appearance of that blue or do you continue until it stays blue? If I stop right at the initial appearance of the blue color, the test solution changes back to a sort of magenta/purple after about 15 seconds. It generally takes 2 - 5 more drops of the Ca-3 reagent to achieve a relatively persistent blue. So where is the end-point really?
I had the same experience way back when I was using the Sea-Chem Ca+ test kit when it first came out, and arbitrarily decided that if the blue persisted more or less unchanged for 15 seconds, that was the end-point.
FWIW, it makes the difference between a Ca+ of 380 ppm and 410 ppm, either of which seems to be acceptable to my tank's inhabitants. 'Course I'd be happier with the latter, but.... 
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08-26-2003, 09:26 PM
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#2
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831mark
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 206
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IMO you are going to want to go with the result at the first sign of a color change. I use a Salifert cacium test as well. The same thing happens to me but it usually takes only one more drop to get the blue to stick. I record the result when the blue first appears. I usually get 420-440.
It's nice to see another fellow Cali Reefer. 
__________________
Mark
80gal hex (soon) (getting closer)
20gal hex currently
2x barnacle blennies, 1x ocellaris clown, LTA, cleaner shrimp, misc hermits and snails, 2x cowries, 2x branching hammer, purple frogspawn, green frogspawn, 1 large and 1 small umbrella leather, small metallic green star polyps, yellow polyps, countless mushrooms and zoes, 2x hydnophora frags 3" each, red fromia star
2 - 36watt PC 50/50
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08-26-2003, 10:05 PM
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#3
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 771
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Well....it all depends. If you LIKE the value when it immediatly turns blue then......GREAT. If you like the value after adding a few more drops than.....thats the one to believe!
Just kidding! I would trust the initial color change like kram suggested.
Dennis
__________________
I FINALLY solved my nitrate problem... I threw away the test kit.
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08-26-2003, 10:13 PM
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#4
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: California
Posts: 146
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Mark,
First appearance of blue is as good a place to stop as any, I guess. I suspect that so long as I stick to one point or another consistently, I'll be fine.
I made a dumb mistake in the way I set up my kalk dosing, and it was dispensing a lot of calcium carbonate precipitate, which naturally drove the pH up and the Ca+ down. My first clue was what looked like a small calcite mine developing in the sump where the kalk dripped in.  Anyway, once the sump was cleaned up and I started dosing kalk properly, a good big water change was all that was needed to get things back on course. So I'm hoping to see Ca+ levels in excess of 400 regularly.
BTW, I'm in the East S.F. Bay area of Ca.
Regards,
Bert
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08-26-2003, 10:43 PM
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#5
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831mark
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally posted by LongShot
I made a dumb mistake in the way I set up my kalk dosing, and it was dispensing a lot of calcium carbonate precipitate, which naturally drove the pH up and the Ca+ down.
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What exactly was the mistake you made? I'm just asking so none of make it.  We love learning from OTHER peoples mistakes. lol
__________________
Mark
80gal hex (soon) (getting closer)
20gal hex currently
2x barnacle blennies, 1x ocellaris clown, LTA, cleaner shrimp, misc hermits and snails, 2x cowries, 2x branching hammer, purple frogspawn, green frogspawn, 1 large and 1 small umbrella leather, small metallic green star polyps, yellow polyps, countless mushrooms and zoes, 2x hydnophora frags 3" each, red fromia star
2 - 36watt PC 50/50
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08-27-2003, 09:56 AM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: California
Posts: 146
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Well, it's a bit embarrassing, but....
I thought I'd try to mimic the action of a kalk reactor by putting a small powerehead in my kalk reservior and connecting it to a timer set to run the PH for a few minutes every so many hours. Sounded like a good idea at the time  , but instead of keeping the kalk saturated, what it did was keep the usual calcium carbonate precipitate suspended in solution. Not a good thing....
At any rate, I figured out the error of my ways before the pH went above 8.47 and the Ca+ fell below 335, so no major harm done. None the less, pulling the sump and getting all the "crusties" out of it was not a task for the faint of heart.
I've gone back to the traditional method for mixing and dosing kalk, and Ca+ and Alk. are much better. If & when that becomes too much of a bother, trust me, I will spend the $$ on a REAL kalk reactor
Regards,
Bert
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