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04-28-2003, 11:55 AM
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#1
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Plankton
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 41
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Can't get it up!
CALCIUM, THAT IS! 
just started to dose ca supplemments about a week ago, and I continuosly stay at 265 ppm. I started with ESV B-Ionic, but then my alk went up out of range, so I stopped BIonic and started with only 1/8 teaspoon of Kents Turbo Calcium daily. CA doesn't come up but alk went down. What should I do instead? start dripping Kalk? Water change?
Please help!
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__________________
55Gal,50#LS, 65#Fiji & Tonga LR, Remora Skimmer,Emperor 400,Lights:4X96W PC, 2Occellaris Clowns,1Hippo tang, 3Green Chromis, Green star polyps,Hammer, yellow polyps, brown polyps,
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04-28-2003, 12:52 PM
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#2
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Bubble Algae Warrior
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,362
Reviews: 17
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anytime i complain about water element or nutrient levels, i am first asked how new my test kit is...
and so, in following that grand tradition:
how new is your test kit?
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04-28-2003, 01:09 PM
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#3
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: lykens pa
Posts: 559
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the "title" of this thread is just not right.
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04-28-2003, 01:37 PM
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#4
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TCMAS Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brooklyn Center, MN
Posts: 5,666
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While I certainly agree about bad taste in subjects, kind of ironic coming from someone with a monkey butt as there avatar....
I would start by doing some large water changes. Ionic balance is probably pretty out of whack....
Second, Follow this article:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm |
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04-28-2003, 03:23 PM
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#5
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Birthday tracker
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Spartanburg, SC USA
Posts: 14,632
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Quote:
Originally posted by seamonkey
the tittle of this thread is just not rite.
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mebbe not, but it got my attention...
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cath
-La Dolce Vita
Proud member of the BRW crowd 
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04-28-2003, 03:39 PM
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#6
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Eat more PIE
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,610
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__________________
Double your drive space. Delete Windows
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04-28-2003, 03:42 PM
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#7
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Ghost of reefers past
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Southern Oregon, Way West of Dimples ;)
Posts: 25,140
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my first thought after reading title was , sorry bout that
I agree that bagging on title while flaunting that avatar is kinda ironic. Hopefully its all in fun and no one will come crying to me
I agree with david about thinking this out before getting carried away. Thats a good article tho maybe a tad technical, its hard to cover this subject without delving deep into chem. Check the links section there are a few other articles on the fussy relationship between calcium, alkilinity and pH. This is probably one of the toughest concepts in reefing to grasp for the non technical.
Icebear has a point, hi quality fresh test kits are a must, tho pH monitor is always a good investment. Good to see ya again TG
__________________
Cowboy is a verb, not a noun
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04-28-2003, 04:48 PM
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#8
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Plankton
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 41
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SHAME ON WHOEVER had dirty thoughts about the title of this thread! Get your minds out of the gutter, I'm strictly talking about reefing here!
BTW, my Salifert ALK and CA test kits are 1 week old. I'll be doing another 5 gal water change tonight, I did one about 5 days ago, hopefully that will clear things up. Whenever my ALK goes down to the acceptable range, should i start B-ionic again or continue with Kent's turbo?
__________________
55Gal,50#LS, 65#Fiji & Tonga LR, Remora Skimmer,Emperor 400,Lights:4X96W PC, 2Occellaris Clowns,1Hippo tang, 3Green Chromis, Green star polyps,Hammer, yellow polyps, brown polyps,
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04-28-2003, 04:57 PM
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#9
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TCMAS Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brooklyn Center, MN
Posts: 5,666
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Just follow the section Corrections for Zone 3 in the article.
I would try to solve without using Turbo CA if can be avoided. This means that you may end up using more of one part of the B-Ionic than the other to get back to normal but IMO easier than trying to solve using several different additives until you get a grasp on the relationship.....
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04-28-2003, 05:01 PM
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#10
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: wash
Posts: 2,262
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The water changes should dillute your water and its chemistry enough to get you back to step one. On a way of getting your levels back up where they should be I would suggest a ionically balanced additive, although B ionic scares me a bit (thiers something about a varnish company making reef additives, lol) I would look to one of the Warner Marine products for ionically balanced additive, they use anylitical grade components that dont have so much extra metals and such in them. One thing to test for to maybe your magnesium, it plays a role to.
mike
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04-28-2003, 05:05 PM
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#11
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Plankton
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 41
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Thanks! E.S.V. is a varnish company??? Yikes!
another thought...how about dripping kalkwasser after the water changes and I get everything in balance again?
__________________
55Gal,50#LS, 65#Fiji & Tonga LR, Remora Skimmer,Emperor 400,Lights:4X96W PC, 2Occellaris Clowns,1Hippo tang, 3Green Chromis, Green star polyps,Hammer, yellow polyps, brown polyps,
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04-28-2003, 05:12 PM
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#12
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: wash
Posts: 2,262
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Kalk is also a good way to maintain your alk and cal. Its not the best for raising levels (although it can) but it is good for maintaining them. Remember that Kalk will only raise cal and alk. So you will have to touch up your other elements. Although if you practice water changes you will be ok.
Mike
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04-28-2003, 05:27 PM
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#13
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TCMAS Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brooklyn Center, MN
Posts: 5,666
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Not trying to sound like a jerk but.....
Did you read the Zone 3 part of the article ? It specifically addresses the last few questions youv'e asked......
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04-28-2003, 05:53 PM
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#14
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Plankton
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 41
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Quote:
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Did you read the Zone 3 part of the article ? It specifically addresses the last few questions youv'e asked......
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Sorry, I hadn't read it yet.
Quote:
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I would advise correcting this problem by adding a calcium chloride supplement until you have moved into the target zone (or zones 1 or 2 that you can then treat as described above) as shown in Figure 4. Almost any brand of calcium chloride will do (Kent Turbo Calcium, Kent Liquid Calcium, ESV, etc.). Certain other calcium supplements may also be OK (such as just the calcium component of the two-part calcium and alkalinity additive systems), but you do not want to add any alkalinity. You CANNOT use limewater or a calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactor to correct this problem. Any of the balanced calcium and alkalinity additive systems will move you parallel to the line at the edge of the zone, while you want to move over to it, and cross it.
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So according to this, Kent's turbo ca may work. I do not want to use the ca only portion of B-Ionic because then I'll have uneven quantities in the bottles, and I believe that they do not sell them seperately.
ANOTHER QUESTION: and please excuse my ignorance here, but once my alk gets into range (8-10.5 dKH) and my ca is still low (<300ppm), do I continue with kents turbo ca as well as both parts of b-ionic to bring the calcium up?
__________________
55Gal,50#LS, 65#Fiji & Tonga LR, Remora Skimmer,Emperor 400,Lights:4X96W PC, 2Occellaris Clowns,1Hippo tang, 3Green Chromis, Green star polyps,Hammer, yellow polyps, brown polyps,
Last edited by JPfish; 04-28-2003 at 05:57 PM.
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04-28-2003, 06:00 PM
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#15
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Plankton
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 41
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Look like I founf my answer in "corrections for zone 2" in the article, Thanks!
__________________
55Gal,50#LS, 65#Fiji & Tonga LR, Remora Skimmer,Emperor 400,Lights:4X96W PC, 2Occellaris Clowns,1Hippo tang, 3Green Chromis, Green star polyps,Hammer, yellow polyps, brown polyps,
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