Calcium, Alkalinity, and Reef Builder

[Waterbury Guy]

I have the below setup, been dosing with Reef Builder (although I have no corals, trying to get my levels up in order to support them in a couple of month) about once a week. Tested my water on Sunday:
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: <10
ALK: Not sure wasn't using the test right
CA: 1000!

Did a 10 gallon water change Tuesday, here's my results:
PH: 8.1
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: <10
ALK: 3-3.5
CA: 750

I verified the CA test kit was OK by using the testing solution it came with. I am using Fastest by Aquarium Systems for everything but CA, for that I have SeaChem.
Here's my questions:
1) How can I get my PH higher, it rarely goes above 8.1
2) Should I do another water change tommorow to drop the CA fruther (is it hurting anything)
3) Should I continue to use Reef Builder?
Thanks!

[grazhopr]

recommmended Ca content for a coral tank is 380 - 450 mg/L (or ppm).
i would suspend dosing the reef builder, since there is nothing consuming it (corals).

pH is not bad. recommended range is 8.0-8.5.

Is your alkalinity measured in meq/L or dKH ?. If its measured in the first then youre ok. alk ranging 2.5-3.5 meq/L (7-10 dKH) should be fine to prevent from sudden pH drop (which you don't want). alk is a measure of buffering capacity of your saline solution.

overdosing of calcium ion in your system could raise your specific gravity, thus drop in alkalinity, therefore pH.

nitrates are excellent. would have a better idea of how it can develop if you listed your livestock, and other setup details.
However, with good skimming you should do ok.

If you plan to keep corals, i recommend you also get a phosphate test. phosphates > 0.2 mg/L (ppm) are not recommended. they will deteriorate coral growth, by interfering the process of attaching calcium to their structures (sorry, i bet there's a better way to put it).

To answer your question...yes...stop using reef builder, at least for now.

if you want to start growing corals, check your system for stability, lighting requirements (whether you want to grow soft and ultimately stony corals).

Good luck!

I'm in a similar process and enjoying every minute !

[Waterbury Guy]

Thanks graz.
I believe my ALK test kit measures in meg/L, but I'll double check tonight. As far as my set up goes, I thought it showed in my sig....but here it is:
55 Gal, 75 Lbs. LR, 6" DSB, (2) Maxi-Jet 600, (2) 150W Heaters, Penguin 400. Yellow Watchman Goby, Firefish Goby, Pygmy Cherub Angel, Royal Grama, (2) True Percs,(2) Feather Dusters, (2) Cleaner Shrimp, Fire Shrimp, Red Serpent Star, (2) Fighting Conch, (10) Scarlet Reef Hermits, (10) various snails.

[grazhopr]

ok.

looks like a fair stock. though check for specimens prone to pick on coral (i'm not a real expert when it comes to fishes, but i'm still investigating for my final setup).

calcium can be fed to corals in several ways.
one is mixing calcium hydroxide in top-off water. this gives you what is known as kalkwasser, one of various sources of calcium for your system.

correct me if i'm wrong, but i didn't noticed any protein skimmer...
i think they're a must for building coral (to maintain water quality). these invertebrates (cnidaria, corals) have stinging cells and they produce some slimes that will load your system. skimmers are good nitrate, phosphate and other substances removers.

you might also want to upgrade your lighting fixture to a MH (metal halide) and/or VHO bulbs. you will need wattage approximatelly 5-7 times your tank capacity. color temp is very important also: 5500-10000 K even higher is recommended to grow corals. the higher the temp, the bluer the light. this subject is particularly sensitive for me (opinions are countless).

Some corals like strong currents, some gentle, some like surges.
a good circulation plan needs to be acomplished, according to the types of coral you plan to keep. additional powerheads may be mandatory and or other fixtures like wave makers. some people use a single circulation pump with a particular plumbing for customized current distribution. possibilities are endless here.

this is very little info, and probably not from the most experienced fella. most of what i have posted here i have gathered by investigating and reading. i urge you to do the same !
you'll be hooked once you start.
check the trt's book section. they have a good selection there

p.s.
sorry about the setup details....i checked and guess what...they were always there. i tend to pass over signature messages.

[Waterbury Guy]

Thanks again, saving my pennies right now to get a Remora Pro skimmer around Christmas time. Going to go with 220W PC (possibly 396W). I don't like actinic VHO, and the ones I've seen have serial connections (ie I can't run just the actinics). Probably go w/ 220W as I don't plan on SPS or clams. Also plan on adding two Maxi-Jet 900 PH in addition to the 2 600's I have.

[semajftw]

CA: 1000!

This is probably a question for the chemists out there, but I thought that Calcium would precipitate out before it ever reached that level. Who knows? I sure don't?

-James

[tdwyatt]

Calcium test kit responses at 1000 are most likely in error, but the kits you used are not exactly known for their reliability nor their accuracy. As there may be an issue with your Ca levels, I would buy Salifert's Alkalinity and Ca test kits and retest your water column. It is important to know your salinity as well, as the SG will affect the capacity of the water column to support Ca levels. Magnesium as part of the water column plays a role in the ability of Ca to be supersaturated in the seawater column, as well as temp, alkalinity, pH, phosphate levels, and circulation in the system. I am very suspect of the levels reported, but they could happen, although not in a system that is supporting normal sealife.

Better test kits will give you more reliable tresults, and for Ca and Alk, Salifert makes the most hobbyist-frendly and economical and accurate kits for these 2 parameters. Before making any drastic changes in your system (including adding all that buffer), get some better test kits and retest. A means of testing both your test kit and your technique is to make a fresh batch of OI ASW and test it for Ca, should be around 350 PPM.

Hope this helps.