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Old 01-22-2002, 10:02 PM   #1
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Pickling Lime?


I know I'm being cheap, but for those that dose...

I recently read that pickling lime and Kalkwasser have the same essential ingredient (calcium hydroxide). Further, that pickling lime can be used in the place of Kalkwasser as a calcium supplement. The main advantage of Kalkwasser is that it is designed to dissolve more easily and therefore it more convenient to apply.

I’ve found several references to this topic on the Net. Has anyone done this?

There are only a few corals in my tank and I can justify the cost of a calcium reactor...yet. I can pick up a large can of food grade pickling lime at the store for about two bucks.

Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2002, 10:08 PM   #2
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I have done it for 3-4 years. No problem.
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Old 01-22-2002, 10:13 PM   #3
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Pickling Lime and Kalkwasser are the same exact thing minus the nice label and fancy german name.

I use it and so do many others. One of them Julian Sprung.

It is mixed at th same rate as it is the same thing, 2 tablespoons per gallon.

I also mix it first in 20 ml of white vinager (acetic acid).

Both Pickling Lime and Kalkwasser are not batched, they are mined and both at the same purity, some claim Kalkwasser is a higher grade but it does not prove to be.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-22-2002, 10:15 PM   #4
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Can you say Ball or Mrs Wages pickling lime
Same thing, maybe a tad coarser grade. Bill E reports it eats up a powerhhead in his kalk reactor faster but otherwise, not a problem
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Old 01-22-2002, 10:26 PM   #5
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Lets just say that my wife gave me 5 pounds of Balls pickling lime for Christmas. It was the best gift ever.

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Old 01-23-2002, 08:00 AM   #6
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I've used Pickling Lime for over 2 years; can't tell the difference from the high-priced spread.
The last "real" Kalkwasser cost me $12 for 8 oz. Mrs. Wages costs me $1.19 per lb. at Kroger!
Incidentally, I have noticed that Mrs. Wages seems slightly whiter than Ball Pickling Lime. After mixing, Ball seems to leave a little more particulate in suspension. Almost imperceptible, but it makes me prefer Mrs. Wages.
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Old 01-24-2002, 02:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fishaholic
Pickling Lime and Kalkwasser are the same exact thing minus the nice label and fancy german name.
Essentially this is true, although based on the initial grade of the limestone that is used to make the Calcium oxide it may differ...

Quote:
It is mixed at th same rate as it is the same thing, 2 tablespoons per gallon... ...I also mix it first in 20 ml of white vinager (acetic acid)...
Mixing direction rate is correct, but using Vinegar defeats the purpose of using Ca(OH)2 to start with. You end up with a solution of Ca acetate (very soluble) and water, instead of Calcium carbonate/bicarbonate (relatively insoluble) ions ... this will initially drop pH and will not help to maintain buffer capacity nearly as well as saturating a solution with Calcium oxide/ calcium hydroxide to provide for the buffering effect from the carbonate/bicarbonate ions. Although 20 ml of vinegar is not enough to completely neutralize the buffer present, it will prevent it's initial formation, as acetate ion is an organic acid, and the protons they donate to the solution will actually neutralize some of the existing buffer capacity of the system. Buffer will come back up somewhat, but the addition of acetic acid in the form of vinegar is totally unnecessary, even detrimental in view of what our expected outcome should be.

Quote:
...Both Pickling Lime and Kalkwasser are not batched, they are mined and both at the same purity, some claim Kalkwasser is a higher grade but it does not prove to be...
I'm not sure what you mean by "batched", but these products are made in "batches" and have lot numbers for the batches in which they are produced. Kalk and pickling lime are both mixtures of (very little) Calcium Oxide ( CaO ) and (mostly) Calcium Hydroxide ( Ca(OH)2 ). They are mined only in the sense that the raw precursor to make these products is mined Calcium Carbonate, either as marble that is not suitable for construction or deposits of Chalk or high purity limestone.

The products we seek are made first through the production of Calcium Oxide, then the manufacture of a more stable Calcium Hydroxide. Calcium Oxide is made by calcining a relatively pure native calcium carbonate, e.g., marble chips, chalk or limestone in a suitable kiln where the carbonate will be removed as carbon dioxide, leaving behind CaO. This kiln is usually a vertical cylinder of either steel or masonry lined with firebrick, heated by a boxed heat source (usually gas-fired) near the base of the kiln. The kiln is arraigned so that the entire mass of the limestone is exposed to the combustion products of the furnace without coming into actual contact with the flame. Large amounts of lime can be cheaply made in this manner using rotary furnaces. I might point out that this is also one of the sources of reef destruction in the South Pacific. Reefs are mined for their limestone (skeletons) to supply lime used for road and related structure construction.

Native Calcium Carbonates contain varying amounts of impurities, usually oxides and carbonates of magnesium, iron, silica, and varying clays. The final grade of the lime is determined by assay of the final product, and may vary from Pharmaceutical to construction grade. If there is enough of the clay present, the final product is called "over-burnt lime" and is used to make a quicklime product that is suitable only for construction/mortar purposes. The Calcium Oxide is the precursor for the production of Calcium Hydroxide, also known as "slaked lime", so called because it is thirsty for water (I will explain).

Also called "hydrated lime", Calcium Hydroxide is made by the careful addition of a limited amount of water to lime (Calcium Oxide). This process is known as "slaking" and is characterized by the avid absorption of water by the oxide to form Calcium Hydroxide in an extremely exothermic reaction.

Calcium hydroxide solutions are basic by reaction with water (pH of the saturated solution at room temp is 12.3) with a solubility of 1 gm in 630 ml of water at 25C. Solubility goes down as temp goes up (greater reactivity results in more precipitate, remember, solution for this product is exothermic) to around 1 gm in 1300 ml water at 100C. Freshly made solutions of this substance will be clear, but will turn cloudy as they absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to form Calcium Carbonate. This is not the initial precipitate seen when mixing the solution, that is from the excess Ca(OH)2. Allow this to settle out, and you can use the supernatant liquid (the clear liquid above the precipitate layer). Store this solution in a tightly close container, and to dose it, use a closed collapsible container to prevent the introduction of CO2.

If you want to test the purity of the lime that you have, I have the assay tests for Ca(OH)2 for those of you that might be interested, or you can contact the USP on the Internet for the assay standards.

Heh, just my $0.02 US ... Hope this clears up any misconception on this product. Although the pickling lime may not be pharmaceutical grade, it supplies the things we want without supplying an unacceptable level of contaminates (food grade is almost pharmaceutical grade)
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Old 01-24-2002, 10:54 AM   #8
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Old 01-24-2002, 02:01 PM   #9
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Old 01-24-2002, 04:15 PM   #10
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T.D. bear in mind there are people who's ideas and experience run counter to yours.

BReefCase wrote the best reason for using Vinegar I have seen. it is as follows:

-----------------------------------------

When Calcium Hydroxide solution (Kalkwasser) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free Carbon Dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions (which is a good thing), like this:
Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(CO2) <==> Ca++ + 2(HCO3-)

If you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, your shiny new Bicarbonate ions will be converted to Carbonate ions (a bad thing), like this:

Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(HCO3-) <==> Ca++ + 2(CO3--) + 2 H2O

The Carbonate ions formed will make the Ca++ you are trying to add to your tank get wasted by the useless precipitation of Calcium Carbonate -- the white stuff you are seeing.

So, too rapid addition of Kalk may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go DOWN instead of UP (a bad thing), like this:

Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O

In the above reaction, a Calcium ion and two Bicarbonate ions from the aquarium combine to form solid calcium carbonate -- the white stuff you are getting in your tank, which is really just a kind of sand.

This can happen even with a slow drip of Kalk if there is not enough CO2 in your water -- something you can't easily control.

To avoid this, try mixing and adding your Kalkwasser like this: pour 15ml of 5% Acetic Acid (or ordinary Distilled White Vinegar from the grocery store -- same thing) into a 1 liter (1 quart) container. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of lab-grade Ca(OH)2 (or commercial Kalkwasser mix) in the Acetic Acid, and then dilute to 1 liter (1 quart) volume with either RO/DI water, or even tank water.

15 ml is more Vinegar than some people are comfortable with, but I use it constantly with no problems. There should be no sediment in the mixture, or just a little bit at most. You can let the sediment settle out if you don't like the white flakes in your tank. I just drip the liquid and the sediment both into my tank.

Dissolving the Kalk powder in the Vinegar first will accomplish several very good things.

First, it will get more Calcium ions (Ca++) into the solution because you are dissolving the Ca(OH)2 in an acid instead of water, and forming Calcium Acetate, which exists as a dissociated equilibrium of free Calcium ions and Acetate ions.

Second, the Acetic Acid (Vinegar) provides an equivalent of all the CO2 you need to avoid precipitating the newly-added Calcium ions as useless white Calcium Carbonate powder.

Third, after all the cool Calcium ion chemistry is over, the leftover Acetate ions from the broken-down Vinegar leaves you with free organic Carbon in the water that feeds the bacteria in your tank so that it converts more poisonous Nitrates to NO2 gas (a very good thing).

Adding Vinegar in Kalkwasser is one of the few win-win situations for reefers -- it has a great up side and I've yet to encounter a down side to doing it. I don't know why so few reefers do it -- lack of understanding of the chemistry behind it maybe -- but a lot more are starting now that some respected reef writers have discovered it and have recommended it and even written up detailed instructions for it.

By the way, you should check your pH before and after you do this the first few times to make sure it is not affected by the process. It should not be a problem. Also, if you don't already have them, get and learn to use Salifert test kits for Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium. The levels of all of these are related and affected by dripping Kalk.

Good luck.

--------------------------------------------

If you bear with me I will add more to this post.

This question from Polyp and the response helps to better understand.

-----------------------------------------

Hi. I'm not much good at chemistry anymore, so I've got a question. Previous info I've read regarding the preparation of Kalk suggests that it's best to minimize the mixing of the Kalkwasser solution with C02 to prevent the fomation of calcium carbonate, which will then percipitate out of solution. Seems contrary to what's been posited by Breefcase. What's going on here? Do I have bad info or incomplete info? Anyway, the idea sounds intriguing... I'll have to study a bit more to satisfy my curiosity now!
Another question:
Would there be any benifit in using asorbic acid (Vitamin C) in the place of acetic acid?

--------------------------------------------

Here is BReefcase reply

---------------------------------------------

Polyp -- Actually, you don't have contrary information at all. The advice not to mix the Kalk too much is right on target. As the equations I posted show, if you are not using any Vinegar in the mix you certainly DO need to avoid mixing the Kalk powder with CO2 until AFTER it's dripped into the tank.
Look again at the equations. Both the GOOD reaction that liberates useful Calcium ions (Ca++) into your tank, and the BAD reaction that wastes the Calcium ions as solid Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3), require the addition of different amounts of CO2.

The problem with allowing the CO2 reaction to occur as you mix your Kalk in a container without Vinegar is that you are mixing it in a comparatively small quantity of water that contains only a very limited amount of CO2. So, instead of having enough CO2 to go all the way to useful Bicarbonate ions (HCO3-, or Alkalinity) as you want it to, the chemical reaction stops at the undesirable Carbonate ion (CO3--). This is what sets the stage for the Calcium ions to precipitate out as useless solid Calcium Carbonate while still in the mixing container -- the Kalk mixes with SOME CO2, but not with ENOUGH CO2.

If your mixing container contained ample CO2, i.e., enough to fully react all the Kalkwasser as Bicarbonate ions, you would indeed then want to do all the mixing with CO2 right there in the container. It's only because there's not enough CO2 present in the small container that you need to limit the mixing to avoid precipitation.

So, you've actually hit on one good reason WHY we want to add the Vinegar to the mixing container -- the Acetic Acid in the Vinegar provides the equivalent of enough CO2 to take the reaction all the way to the desired end products for which we drip Kalk -- that is, to produce free Calcium ions and free Bicarbonate ions in solution in our tanks.

By using enough Vinegar, we can mix to our heart's content right in the container, and don't need to worry as much about dripping the solution slowly into the tank. We have already driven the reaction all the way to the desired outcome, and provided ample CO2 to produce a balance of free Calcium ions and free Bicarbonate ions. This, incidentally, is why Kalk is said to be "ionically balanced" - it produces a one-to-one balance between Calcium and Alkalinity.

By the way, the "stoichiometric" amount of Vinegar, i.e., that amount that provides the exact equivalent of enough CO2 to react all the Kalk powder to Calcium and Bicarbonate, turns out to be about 25ml of 5% Acetic Acid per liter of saturated (0.02 moles/liter or 1.5 grams/liter) aqueous Calcium Hydroxide solution (Kalkwasser). I've used 30ml of Vinegar to a ½ teaspoon of Ca(OH)2 per liter of mix without any problem, but recommend about 15ml to those new to using Vinegar. This means that you still need to go easy on the stirring, because we are not providing quite enough equivalent CO2 to avoid SOME Carbonate ion formation if we get carried away with the mixing.

As to your question about using Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid, or L-3-Ketothreohexuronic Acid Lactone) instead of Acetic Acid, its chemical formula is C6H8O6, compared to C2H4O2 (commonly written CH3COOH) for Acetic Acid. The real story for us here though is in the atomic STRUCTURE of the two, rather than just in their FORMULAS.

While Acetic Acid is essentially just an Acetate ion (CH3CO2-) with an extra Hydrogen atom tacked on, Vitamin C has an alkene ring, 4 alcohols, and an ester in its structure. I can't say with certainty all the complex organic chemistry that dissolving L-Ascorbic Acid would kick off in one's tank, or whether it would be good or bad, but I think I'll let someone else perform that particular experiment.

As to the other questions:

Joe Mac -- Sand compaction can be caused by lots of things - high Calcium concentrations (above 500 ppm) is indeed one of them. I don't think that using Vinegar would cause sand compaction to occur through any new mechanism other than just by permitting the reefer to achieve high Calcium concentrations, and conversely that high Calcium level would cause the same sand compaction no matter how the Calcium level was achieved - with or without Kalk and Vinegar.

My sandbed is a mix of many sizes of Aragonite, with a lot of oolitic or "sugar sand," and I have never noticed compaction. But then, I have so many critters in there up to and including Atlantic Sand Cukes that there is little chance of compaction occurring. The fact that my sand is very alive means that I have to feed my sand so much extra food that I really appreciate the de-Nitrating boost that Vinegar provides, as the leftover organics feed my bacteria bed and really helps get rid of the Nitrates.

Outerbank -- No, I still don't store the Kalkwasser solution pre-mixed, because as I point out, the low Vinegar amounts used aren't quite enough equivalent CO2 to totally prevent some precipitation of Calcium Carbonate, which gets worse with time if the liquid is stored too long.

Finally, as to using Vinegar in a "Kalkreactor," I'm sorry, but I am not familiar with that device.

-----------------------------------------------------------

This is probably the best post I have read on the subject.
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Old 01-25-2002, 02:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
bear in mind there are people who's ideas and experience run counter to yours.
Dick, Don't be too quick to dump this one to the archives (yet)!!! I will preface the following remarks with the fact that I have not used vinegar solubilization for Kalk before and that I have no colloquial information from others doing it. If the numbers work, I may set up an experimental tank with probe monitoring to check this method out. Knowing the pKa of the reactions involved, and that the solubility of bicarbonate is so much higher than carbonate and the preference of the pKa's to drive the reactions to bicarbonate (and the fact that CO2 is so soluble in seawater that removing it from solution in an open container at 2 tbs kalk/gal is unlikely) makes me a little incredulous of the claims that BReefcase makes in his post. I will do the math though, and see what the ultimate outcome would be based on calculations of the pharmacokinetics of such a system, then maybe drive it through a few programs using seawater (inclucing borate systems) as well as RO/DI water to compare the predictions to actuality. Seems like Craig B. had similar concerns at one time, although I don't know what his stance is on this procedure at this time.

I will post some results this weekend.

Fishaholic: Thanks for bringing this topic up, If it works as stated, it may be what I will do in the future! However, the biggest problem with using kalk at present is that there is too much dissolved CO2 available when mixing the solution for drip purposes when mixing it at 2 tbs/gal solution. There are a few flaws with the rational for BReefcase's POV, but nothing so bad that it couldn't be the driver for a decent use of Vinegar and Kalk together.
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Old 01-27-2002, 02:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fishaholic
BReefCase wrote the best reason for using Vinegar I have seen. it is as follows:
When Calcium Hydroxide solution (Kalkwasser) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it ...converts it to Bicarbonate ions

Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(CO2) <==> Ca++ + 2(HCO3-)

If you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, your shiny new Bicarbonate ions will be converted to Carbonate ions (a bad thing), like this:

Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(HCO3-) <==> Ca++ + 2(CO3--) + 2 H2O
Actually this is a local phenomenon associated with locally high pH concentration that is driven by increases in pKa of the Carbonate/bicarbonate buffer system. Increasing the pKa of Carbonate at this point increases it's proportion of the reactivity, creating the precipitation of calcium carbonate as it exceeds the solubility limit of seawater at that pH. The reason that it rapidly disappears is it's dilution (assuming rapidly moving water) and the subsequent acidification of the microenvironment in which it is dripped into as the solution is distributed into the larger volume of the water column. This limit can, however, be exceeded if the pH is driven to an extreme (greater than around 9.0 to 9.5), and would occur in the mixing container (pH of around 12.0 to 12.4 at 25C) if a suitable acid (either vinegar or dissolved CO2) were not present.

Quote:
...So, too rapid addition of Kalk may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go DOWN instead of UP, like this:

Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O

In the above reaction, a Calcium ion and two Bicarbonate ions from the aquarium combine to form solid calcium carbonate -- the white stuff you are getting in your tank...
Not true...
This would be true if the reactions were driven to form carbonate in solution as the primary product, and that its pKa were to predict that it would be the most reactive species of ion in solution, but in actuality, both in calculations and in actuality (see Chemical Oceanography by Frank J Millero , CRC press, 1996) predict reactions at the final dilution and pH of marine aquaria (at ppH of 8.1) to be driven by CO2, and that normal atmospheric replenishment (usually) is not a rate limiting step. CO2 will form carbonic acid initially, which almost immediately dissociates to mostly bicarbonate ion (87%), loose one proton to form some Carbonate ion (13%) and a very small amount will remain as undissociated carbonic acid (less than 1%). The biggest advantage of using kalk alone is that when supplying the calcium ion as the hydroxide, and with 2 moles of hydroxyl ion for every mole of calcium, we naturally drive the reaction to the bicarbonate, which is the predominant ion responsible for the buffer capacity of seawater. However, this assumes that our goal is to improve alkalinity levels in the tank. If we wish to drive the system to improve Ca levels in the water column; lower pH and less buffering, along with an additional ionic specie to further aid in solubilizing the Ca++, is necessary. This is when the use of acetic acid is most useful.

Quote:
This (precipitation of Calcium Carbonate) can happen even with a slow drip of Kalk if there is not enough CO2 in your water -- something you can't easily control.
It is possible to use up all the CO2 in a seawater system, especially in systems that have heavy macroalgae growths and high temps with poor circulation and low alkalinity, but in most healthy systems this is NOT a rate limiting step. The rate of CO2 gas exchange between the water column and the environment can be a rate limiting step when either the organisms in the tank (macroalgae and zooxanthellae) are growing rapidly or the atmosphere above a system has been depleted of CO2, but usually not.

Another factor to consider when evaluating these species of ions is that carbonate forms ion pairs with a multitude of monovalent and divalent metals besides calcium. More than half of the carbonate forms an ionic pair with magnesium, and this ionic pair, unlike other ionic pairs, moves around together with such an affinity between each other that they are unavailable to react with most other species of ions in seawater. Approximately another 20% forms pairs with sodium and other species of ions in addition to calcium. This leaves around 14% of carbonate as free carbonate available to react and participate in the carbonate/bicarbonate buffer system. In addition, borate and some organic substances have the ability to act as proton donators/acceptors based on pH and their pKa, and can affect the entire equilibrium as well.

Quote:
...after all the cool Calcium ion chemistry is over, the leftover Acetate ions from the broken-down Vinegar leaves you with free organic Carbon in the water that feeds the bacteria in your tank so that it converts more poisonous Nitrates to NO2 gas (a very good thing)...
Interestingly enough, on several boards where I found individuals that use this system, there are posts that the down side is sandbed clumping and, paradoxically, either a disappearance of nuisance algae, or a sudden bloom of uncontrollable (most notably cyanobacteria) nuisance algae. The blooming seems to be worst in systems that do no use skimmers, understandable in view of the increase in DOC of not only acetate, but whatever other organic substances distill over with the acetic acid when making vinegar. In those systems that do use skimmers, it seems to temporarily increase skimmate output, albiet thin skimmate, possibly increasing the removal of DOCs.

Quote:
By the way, you should check your pH before and after you do this the first few times to make sure it is not affected by the process. It should not be a problem. Also, if you don't already have them, get and learn to use Salifert test kits for Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium. The levels of all of these are related and affected by dripping Kalk.
Definitely a plus here, The use of vinegar at stoichiometric amounts would be definitely in the best interest of those undertaking the use of vinegar to solubilize the calcium. I would recommend this only for those systems that have heavy requirements for calcium, as it is one of the best methods I have seen to wring out some extra calcium from kalkwasser. This would especially be true for systems that have inadequate evaporative losses (i.e., glass covers or systems in high humidity environments/climates) such that inadequate amounts of limewater can be added for replacement. In addition, acetic acid will drive more of the carbonate to bicarbonate by adding a proton to the ion. This will allow for further utilization of local phenomenon in solution, but I am not sure to what extent this occurs (heh, maybe I will spend all day NEXT Saturday working on THIS...) This is the only way that can account for an increase in buffer capacity using vinegar with kalk: when acetic acid is added to a solution with bicarbonate alone, the bicarbonate ion will donate a proton back to the acetate, and provide free protons to solution, driving the equilibrium back to acetic acid. This usually results in the solubility of CO2 exceeding the limit of seawater, and effervescence can occur, depending on the concentration of each species. (heh, try adding vinegar to baking soda in a cup, but do this in the sink!) It is this removal of carbonate species from the solution that allows for more solubilization of calcium carbonate to occur, and higher saturation rates of calcium can be achieved with this method, but at a cost of gaining the acetate ion in solution. The presence of this weak acid is negated by the bicarbonate it produces, so we are still using up alkalinity to provide more calcium to the solution. The upshot of this is that I would recommend this method only for those systems that have so many organisms uptaking Ca++ that the concentration of Ca++ cannot be maintained above 300 PPM; and then, only with some alk supplementation (i.e., some B-Ionic part I (alk) or a buffer builder such as sodium bicarbonate/socium carbonate 8:1)

One of the best discussions for this method follows. It is an article that Craig Bingham wrote for Aquarium Fish Magazine:

Craig Bingman's Acetic acid and Limewater article

In previous discussions with Craig, there has been some concern about the ultimate goal of depending so much on the numbers to get where we want for our creatures. Keep in mind that for calcification and skeletalization to occur, that the ultimate source of carbon is usually bicarbonate or carbonate in the water column (depending on whether you subscribe to Ted McConnaughey’s model or the Tom Goreau model of calcification in Scleractinians). Regardless of the source, this carbon is necessary in 2:1 molar amounts with Calcium in order for these organisms to build skeletons. These two ions are just as important as sunlight and zooxanthellae for corals to thrive. Sorry for such a long post, I am currently working on some experimental setups using vinegar in varying amounts with Kalk to see if predictions match actuality for these reactions based on seawater with differing pH.

On a personal note, I am having problems with adding an acid, even though it is in equimolar reactive amounts, to increase alkalinity. I guess that it depends on the goal you want, whether you want more Ca++ in solution or equal amounts of Ca and alkalinity.

Heh, the girlfriend is threatening to disown me at this point! I have much more, and I have the math available for those that want to follow the material, but it is more than I want to try and format for vBull.
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Rio 6 Hyper Flow Water Pump

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150 Watt 15000K Metal Halide Bulb Double-Ended (All Brands)

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Blue Life Precision Iodine 16oz

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AquaticLife 48 420460nm Actinic 54 Watt T5 Fluorescent Lamp

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Tags
acetic acid , algae growth , ball pickling lime , balls pickling lime , bicarbonate buffer , bicarbonate buffer system , calcium hydroxide solution , calcium reactor , craig bingman , drip kalk , dripping kalk , form carbonic acid , julian sprung , kalk mix , kalk reactor , marine aquaria , mrs wages pickling lime , nuisance algae , salifert test , sugar sand , wages pickling lime




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