Seachem Saltwater Basic Test Kits

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Seachem Saltwater Basic Test Kits

Reef Special Kit

Instructions for Phosphate Test

1. Fill sample pipette to base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested. Dispense into a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Add one drop of Phosphate Reagent 1. Add 2 drops of Phosphate Reagent 2. Stir briefly with stir rod.
3. After about 5 seconds to 30 seconds (or time frame that produces good matching with scale), compare color to chart to determine concentration.
4. Promptly dispose of the completed test solutions by rinsing test cavity under running water. If the test plate becomes stained, soak or clean with a dilute bleach cleaner, then rinse well.

Instructions for Silicate Test - Normal Range

1. Fill sample pipette to base of bulb with aquarium water and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Add one drop of Silicate Reagent 1a and one drop of Silicate Reagent 1b to the sample. Wait 4 minutes.
3. Add one drop of Silicate Reagent 2.
4. Insert dry stir rod into Silicate Reagent 3 container to coat with a light dusting of powder. Dip stirring rod with Silicate Reagent 3 in test cavity and stir briefly.
5. Compare color to color chart after about 1-2 minutes.
6. Promptly dispose of completed test solutions by rinsing test cavity under running water. If the test plate becomes stained, soak or clean with a dilute bleach cleaner, then rinse well.

Instructions for Silicate Test - Low range

Values below 2 mg/L can be difficult to discern on the color scale. If you need a more exact number in this range you can run a low range version of the test. Note that this option will consume the equivalent of 6 normal range tests for each low range test done.

1. Fill the low range cuvette to within 1 cm (0.5 inches) from the top with aquarium water sample.
2. Add 6 drops of Silicate Reagent 1a and 6 drops of Silicate Reagent 1b. Cap and invert to mix. Wait 4 minutes.
3. Add 6 drops of Silicate Reagent 2. Cap and invert to mix.
4. Insert dry stir rod into Silicate Reagent 3 container to coat with a light dusting of powder. Dip stirring rod with Silicate Reagent 3 into cuvette and stir briefly. Cap and invert to mix.
5. Compare color to color chart after 2-4 minutes. Match color against color scale by viewing from top to bottom (not side to side) against a white background. Divide result by 4 to obtain actual value (e.g., if it looks like 8 mg/L then the actual value is 2 mg/L). Color will have more of a green hue so base comparison more on color intensity and less on exact color hue.

Instructions for Iodine and Iodide

1. Prepare working Iodide Reagent 2: (a) fill empty plastic vial to thread level with deionized (DI) or distilled water (not supplied); reverse osmosis (RO) water may not be sufficiently pure; add 1 drop Iodide Reagent 2a (using dispensing pipette) and 1 drop Iodide Reagent 2b; (b) cap vial and mix; (c) wait 5 minutes before using. The working Iodide Reagent 2 solution is usable for 3-4 hours.
2. Using supplied spoon, dispense one level measure of Iodide Reagent 1 to a test cavity.
3. Add one full stem of sample aquarium water using sample pipette to the test cavity containing Iodide Reagent 1. (If a blue color develops now, elemental iodine is indicated. This should be viewed as a hazardous status. Use a dechlorinator such as Prime to remove elemental iodine.)
4. Add 2 drops Iodide Reagent 2 (that you already prepared in Step 1 above) with dispensing pipette to the test cavity and stir briefly with straight end of spoon. It is normal for not all of the powder to dissolve.
5. Promptly compare color to color chart as soon as color peaks (20-40 seconds). Peak color will remain stable for about a minute. Rinse out test plate after use and dry.

Marine Basic Kit
Why test for pH and Alkalinity?
pH is the measure of water acidity. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. The ability of water to withstand changes in pH is called buffering capacity. Based on a method of measuring buffering capacity, it is referred to as the alkalinity of seawater. Since the ocean has almost an inexhaustible supply of buffers, it can take up large amounts of acids without a noticeable change in pH. The same, however, does not apply in the closed system of an aquarium, where buffering agents can quickly get used up by calcareous algae and invertebrates. Maintaining your aquarium at the proper pH and alkalinity ensures optimal water quality.

Directions for pH Test

1. Fill sample pipette to base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Add one drop of Marine pH Reagent and stir briefly.
3. Read pH from chart.

Directions for Alkalinity Test

1. Fill sample pipette to base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Hold the alkalinity pipette vertically and add 1 drop of Alkalinity Reagent. Stir briefly. Continue adding drops (count the drops) and stirring until color turns from blue to yellow. Just before going to yellow, a lime green color will appear. The final drop is usually one drop beyond this point.
3. Each drop is equal to 0.5 meq/L. The number of drops to get to yellow divided by 2 is the total alkalinity.

Why Test for Nitrite?
Testing for the presence of toxic nitrite is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, nitrite in the water will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of nitrite quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts of nitrite stress fish, suppressing their immune system and, thereby, increase the likelihood of disease and subsequent fish loss. In new aquariums, high nitrite is a normal occurrence. It means that the Nitrosomonas bacteria in the biological filter have started the nitrification process and have produced nitrite from ammonia. When nitrite is present, however, it means Nitrosomonas are not yet present in sufficient quantitites to transform nitrite into less harmful nitrate.
When to Test for Nitrite
In new aquariums, we advise you test for nitrite daily for at least two weeks. Nitrite should also be tested when you suspect a malfunctioning of the biological filter.

Nitrite Test Directions

1. Fill the sample pipette to the base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate. Repeat, adding to same cavity.
2. Add one drop of Nitrite Reagent 1.
3. Compare to color chart (top scale) after 3-5 minutes.
4. Promptly dispose of completed test solutions by rinsing test cavity under running water.

Why Test for Nitrate?
Nitrate (NO3-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. A high nitrate level indicates a build-up of fish waste and organic compounds, resulting in poor water quality and contributing to the likelihood of fish disease. Excessive nitrate also provides a nitrogen source that can stimulate algal blooms. In the opinion of many aquarists, maintaining a low nitrate level improves the health of fish and invertebrates.
When to Test for Nitrate
Test weekly for Nitrate.

Nitrate Test Directions

1. If you have just run a nitrite test, you cam jump to Step 3, otherwise, fill pipette to the base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate. Repeat, adding to same cavity.
2. Add one drop of Nitrite Reagent 1.
3. Add one level scoop of Nitrate Reagent 2. Stir to mix. It is normal for not all powder to dissolve.
4. Compare to color chart (bottom scale) after 5-8 minutes.
5. Promptly dispose of completed test solutions by rinsing test cavity under running water.

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part 2

Why test for Ammonia?

Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the water through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia - the biological filter. It is made up of nitrifying bacteria, which live in the substrate and biological filter media. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. Testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, ammonia will damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and thereby increasing the likelihood of disease outbreaks and subsequent fish loss.
When to Test for Ammonia
Regular testing for ammonia is very important in newly set up aquariums. We advise daily testing for two to four weeks in a new aquarium. Ammonia levels may also rise in older aquariums, when the biological filter substrate had been damaged, blocked or fouled. Test for ammonia right away if you notice gill or skin damage, or color fading.

Free Ammonia Test Directions

1. Fill sample pipette to the base of bulb with aquarium water to be tested and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Unscrew the cap from the sensor container and remove a sensor using the supplied forceps, rinse with clean water, and place in the sample cavity. To avoid damaging sensors, do not handle with bare fingers. Use the supplied forceps to manipulate sensors. Avoid excessive pressure.
3. Read after 10-15 minutes from bottom scale (less sensitive) or after 30 minutes from top scale (more sensitive) in mg/L.
4. On completion of tests, rinse sensors, and return to their container where they will regenerate within a few hours.

Total Ammonia Test Directions

1. Fill sample pipette to base of bulb and dispense to a test cavity of the test plate.
2. Unscrew the cap from the sensor container and remove a sensor using the supplied forceps, rinse with clean water, and place in the sample cavity. To avoid damaging sensors, do not handle with bare fingers. Use the supplied forceps to manipulate sensors. Avoid excessive pressure.
3. Add one drop of Total Ammonia Reagent.
4. Read after 10-15 minutes from bottom scale (less sensitive) or after 30 minutes from top scale (more sensitive) in mg/L.
5. On completion of tests, rinse sensors, and return to their container where they will regenerate within a few hours