Red Sea 5-in-1 Master Test Kit For Marine Aquariums
Why test for pH and Alkalinity?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral, a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. The ability of water to withstand changes in pH is called buffering capacity. Based on a method of measuring buffering capacity, it is referred to as the alkalinity of seawater. Since the ocean has almost an inexhaustible supply of buffers, it can hold up to large amounts of acids without a noticeable change in pH. The same, however, does not apply in the closed system of an aquarium, where buffering agents can quickly get used up by calcareous algae and invertebrates. Maintaining your aquarium at the proper pH and alkalinity ensures optimal water quality.
When to test for pH and Alkalinity?
To maintain a correct and stable pH, check the pH and alkalinity weekly.
Directions - pH Test- Clean a test tube by rinsing it with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube to the 6 ml mark with water to be tested.
- Add 3 drops of pH (7.4-8.6) indicator, close the test tube with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
- Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, 8" from a white background.
- Read off the pH value of the color that is most similar to the sample in the test tube.
- Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.
Directions - Alkalinity Test- Clean a test tube by rinsing it with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube to the 10 ml mark with water to be tested.
- Add 5 drops of alkalinity indicator.
- Close the test tube with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
- Open the test tube and look down through the open top of the test tube, while holding it 8" above a white background.
- Read off the alkalinity level next to the color on the color card that is most similar to the sample in the test tube.
- Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.
Why test for Ammonia?
Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the water through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia - the biological filter. It is made up of
nitrifying bacteria, which live in the substrate and biological filter media. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. Testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, ammonia will damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and thereby increasing the likelihood of disease outbreaks and subsequent fish loss.
When to Test for Ammonia
Regular testing for ammonia is very important in newly set up aquariums. We advise daily testing for two to four weeks in a new aquarium. Ammonia levels may also rise in older aquariums when the biological filter substrate has been damaged, blocked, or fouled. Test for ammonia right away if you notice gill or skin damage, or color fading.
Directions - Ammonia Test- Check and write down the pH and temperature of the aquarium water of which you wish to test the ammonia level.
- Clean a test tube by rinsing it with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube to the 3 ml mark with water to be tested.
- Rapidly add 11 drops of Ammonia Reagent A. Immediately close the test tube with the stopper and shake vigorously for 10 seconds.
- Open the test tube and add 4 drops of Ammonia Reagent B, close it with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
- Open the test tube and add 4 drops of Ammonia Reagent C, close it with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
- Wait 15 minutes for the color to fully develop.
- Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, 8" from a white background.
- Read off the ppm value of the color that is closest to the sample in the test tube. This is a measure of the total dissolved Ammonia level.
- Using the table below calculate the level of toxic Ammonia. For Marine aquariums, any reading of 0.25 ppm of total Ammonia indicates a level of toxic Ammonia of at least 0.01 ppm which will have a negative effect on the fish.
- Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.
Why Test for Nitrite?
Testing for the presence of toxic nitrite is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, nitrite in the water will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of nitrite quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts of nitrite stress fish, suppressing their immune system and, thereby, increasing the likelihood of disease and subsequent fish loss. In new aquariums, high nitrite is a normal occurrence. It means that the Nitrosomonas bacteria in the biological filter have started the nitrification process and have produced nitrite from ammonia. When nitrite is present, however, it means Nitrosomonas are not yet present in sufficient quantities to transform nitrite into less harmful nitrate.
When to Test for Nitrite
In new aquariums, we advise you test for nitrite daily for at least two weeks. Nitrite should also be tested when you suspect a malfunctioning of the biological filter.
Directions - Nitrite Test- Clean the test tube by rinsing it with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube to the 8 ml mark with water to be tested.
- Add 10 drops of Nitrite Reagent A. Close the test tube with the stopper and shake gently.
- Add 6 drops of Nitrite Reagent B. Close the test tube with the stopper and shake gently.
- Wait 1-1/2 to 2 minutes for the color to fully develop.
- Open the test tube and look down through the open top of the test tube, while holding it 8" above a white background and compare the sample with the color scale.
- Read off the ppm value of the color that is closest to the sample in the test tube.
- Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.
A concentration as low as 0.1 ppm is already harmful to marine invertebrates. Concentrations above 0.3 ppm are harmful for marine fish.
Why Test for Nitrate?
Nitrate (NO3) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. A high nitrate level indicates a buildup of fish waste and organic compounds, resulting in poor water quality and contributing to the likelihood of fish disease. Excessive nitrate also provides a nitrogen source that can stimulate algal blooms. In the opinion of many aquarists, maintaining a low nitrate level improves the health of fish and invertebrates.
When to Test for Nitrate
Test weekly for Nitrate.
Directions - Nitrate Test- Clean a test tube by rinsing it with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube to the 5 ml mark with water to be tested.
- Vigorously shake the Nitrate Reagent A for at least 30 seconds and add 5 drops to the test tube.
- Add 5 drops of the Reagent B.
- Add 8 drops of Reagent C.
- Cap the test tube and shake gently for one minute.
- Wait five minutes for the color to develop, and then shake again.
- Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, about 2" from a white background.
- Read off the ppm value on the right hand LOW RANGE side of the color scale that is closest to the sample in the test tube.
- Should the result be more than 50 ppm, repeat the test using 1 ml water sample diluting up to 5 ml with distilled water or reverse osmosis water and read off the ppm value on the left hand HIGH RANGE side of the color scale.
- Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.
In a marine aquarium, the nitrate should be kept below 20 ppm, but one should always strive for a zero reading, as all coral reef dwellers are adapted to these low levels in the wild.
