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Old 02-16-2009, 11:11 PM   #16
schneijt
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I think that tumbling your chaeto allows light to hit as much of the macro as possible. Personally, I've had some chaeto turn "clear" (dead?) at the bottom, and I think it's because it didn't get light. However, keeping it tumbling is no easy task, since as it grows it tends to crowd your fuge and be hard to keep moving. I don't think tumbling it is necessary, but I think it might have some small benefits if you can manage to do it.

As far as substrate in the fuge, I don't plan on putting any substrate in my new fuge. It's a huge fuge (yes, I rhymed!) and I plan to use it for nothing but chaeto. It'll also have lots of flow, which is another reason to not put any sand in it.

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Old 02-17-2009, 09:33 AM   #17
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You know Cary, I think maybe your best bet would be to have a sand swapping party at your place. I tried to do this on my old 30 gallon after I decided that the CC was no good but all the sand ended up on the bottom and I ended up replacing it all anyways. Sounds like you got things planned out good though. Don't forget figuring out the electrical so the halides don't keep popping fuses!
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Old 02-17-2009, 09:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firsthesitation View Post
You know Cary, I think maybe your best bet would be to have a sand swapping party at your place. I tried to do this on my old 30 gallon after I decided that the CC was no good but all the sand ended up on the bottom and I ended up replacing it all anyways. Sounds like you got things planned out good though. Don't forget figuring out the electrical so the halides don't keep popping fuses!
You know since then it hasn't popped once, must have been the fridge kicking on and off. Thinking about seeing if I can get "Just" the halides on a circuit by them selfs as that is the biggest draw.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:20 PM   #19
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Please anyone (even non-Lark people) if I have missed anything that you think might could cause problems please let me know, I am hoping to start pieces of this plan soon so, let me know if there is anything you would do differently...I am really looking to minimize loss/problems here...

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:30 PM   #20
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the plan looks pretty sound to me.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:34 PM   #21
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It sounds all good, but I need a drawing or something to see the whole picture (layout, flow, lighting, ect)
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:18 PM   #22
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Frag Tank Design


Frag Tank Design -
40 Gallon Breeder



Tank Dimensions are 36 inches long by 18 inches deep by 17 inches high


1st Rack on bottom is 4” off bottom to the top of the rack
2nd Rack is 5” off the 1st Rack
3rd Rack is 5” off the 2nd Rack leaving 3 inches to the top


Racks are made of egg crate and can slide from side to side. Racks are 5 inches by 17 ½ inches. 595 Square Inches of Rack space, where I had 250 square inches before. Depending on how the light penetrates the rack above Might be able to add additional racks.


Rack’s sit on ½ PVC that goes around the tank at each level
or
Rack’s sit on strips of lexon that goes around the tank at each level.


1 or 2 trays of sand in the bottom of tank these trays will slide as well. These are for any corals that are required to be on the sand bed, for example a plate coral and I plan keeping the Sebae Clown fish in there with a sebae anemone.

Lighting to start is going to be the Coralife Aqualight Double Compact Fluorescent Strip Lights
36"192Includes a 34" 96 watt
Actinic & a 34" 96 watt
10,000°K bulb
(Square pin base)


I may eventually switch over to T5's.

Only variable in this design is where the over flow is located either way will have to account for that.

The only other thing that I might add is a small pump attached to a spray bar some place on the rack, will have to see how much flow I am going to get.


The goal of the sliding racks is to allow for easy maintence of the tank, vacumming the bottom etc. I can just slide the racks out of the way and then back into place once the cleaning is done.

This system is replacing my current 20 gallon frag tank, and will remain plumbed into the main system but I am going to be running a second pump to get the water to this system and the new refugium (still thinking on this one as well). So let me know what you think of this design and if you think it is the best use of the space that will be available.

Thanks
Cary
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:47 AM   #23
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Step 1 - Of the Frag Tank swap is done, I have the old one moved to the desk, in the process did a 20 gallon water change and got rid of a bunch of detrius
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:52 PM   #24
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Temporary Frag System


Ok, I have the frag tank moved here are a few pictures...

This is where the old one was at, will be lowering the shelf and putting the 40 here...



Temporary Setup



Front Shot


Top Down Full Tank...




Close up top down...



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Old 02-23-2009, 12:50 PM   #25
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Looking good so far, Cary!
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:43 PM   #26
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Cary...that looks great! I wish I had the room for that type of setup. Maybe I'll have to invest in a frag system for the basement.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:02 PM   #27
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I have another idea I am going to be toying with as well would work great in a basement system with the tank on the main level...once I get it designed out a little more I will post...should gain another 200 square inches of egg crate all in about 6 inches of space nice to have nooks and craneys to work with
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:26 PM   #28
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Ok here is my second thought for an additional area for frags. The main purpose for this area for me is to be able to take better pictures of the frags as the frag tank doesn't give me enough space to take good pictures. This setup will be to the right of the desk area and will be on shelves. Should be able to do 2 of 3 tanks, all made out of acrylic/lexon, custom built with over flows. The only other thing that I will probably do with this setup is build in a bypass so I can turn off the flow to these tanks and go directly to the sump. Will be able to turn off lights if the tank isn't being used will cut down on algae growing in these tanks. Again let me know what you think, I just think this will be cool to have and see if it will work.... Just think you could have almost 200 square inches of room for frags in a 6" deep by 3' high by 17" length pretty small footprint for a wall mounted system

Oh and you can play with height of tanks having some deeper than 5" but I figured I would put eggcrate at different heights.


Last edited by carym; 02-23-2009 at 07:29 PM. Reason: added comment
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:12 PM   #29
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I've thought about doing something very similar to that in the past but I just never had enough frags on hand at any given time to justify actually putting the idea into action. Looks like it would be a pretty sound idea though Cary. Would you build the tanks yourself or have them made for you?

Jas
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:14 PM   #30
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Build them myself, since they will be small tanks and can do the dividers if I want to...
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