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Old 10-19-2011, 08:31 PM   #1
pogodzib
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Dinoflagellates


I'm back from the dead with an unresolved issue - Dinoflagellates

I've been battling with a green bubbly, snotty slim for the past several months. I've thought that I've dealt with every type of major problem over the years, but for some reason, I can't seem to beat the Dinos. I've tried increasing my ozone output, increasing pH, increasing the magnesium levels, dosing hydrogen peroxide, increasing GFO & carbon usage, increased water changes, changed out RO filters, increased skimmate, manual siphon, increased water flow, chemiclean, etc... but I haven't been able to beat them yet. For those of you that are familiar with my tank, it's a 300+ gallon SPS dominated system that has tons of LR, a very good skimmer, and plenty of other goodies. My nitrates and phosphates always read 0 and I think my water may be too clean now that my macroalgae is dying back.

Any suggestions by someone that has dealt with dinoflagellates before??? I'm starting to think that it may be aided by the calcium reactor/CO2, but I don't want to take that offline yet as the calcium and alkalinity levels would plummet quickly.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:36 PM   #2
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Welcome back, can't answer your question but, waiting to hear how things progress
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:46 PM   #3
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You're 1 post away from 2,000 Cary. Congrats! I think I'm going to shut the CO2 for the Cal Rx off tonight and see what happens over the next week, unless someone else posts a better idea.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:33 AM   #4
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Is it located in one particular area, or spread out over the whole tank??

What about reducing your photo-period to say... 4hrs a day? That in conjunction with say increased ph, peroxide dosing, and manual removal is a four-prong attack...
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:49 AM   #5
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I'd be concerned with a reduced photoperiod for Brian...he has a very strongly sps dominant tank, they may not like such a short period.
I've got nothing for you brian...I'm puzzled by my own cyano & have not had much luck.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #6
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I think you could cut back a couple hours each day on the lighting without any ill effects. I sometimes turn mine off for a couple days in a row just to battle the occasional small algae patch that I can't seem to get rid of sometimes. I would manually remove as much as possible and syphon it out, then do a day or two of lights out, followed by a reduced photoperiod to see if it starts to come back strong again. What bulbs are you running on the tank, and have they been changed since the problem started? It sounds like you've tried everything else, so maybe the lights are a big factor in the presence and longevity of the problem.

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Old 10-20-2011, 04:21 PM   #7
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The problems started a couple months after I changed bulbs and I don't think that changing them again yet would help. The worst area is in my frag tank (connected to the rest of the system) and the 4xT5HO bulbs over it are only on 6 hours per day, but the entire system has it as well though. The display has the halides over it on for 5 hrs/day with the T5HO's on for about 8 hrs, coinciding with the halides.

Manual removed only works by using a turkey baster to get it free from the LR and tank and then you can skim the floating dinos off the water surface. Anywhere else is impossible to remove since you can't pick it up like normal algae.

Currently, I'm using a multi-prong approach by heavy skimming, manual removal, increased ozone injection, hydrogen peroxide dosing, increased pH, increased magnesium levels, and increased GFO & carbon usage. Some of the SPS corals have struggled recently, although it appears to be show up more when I miss dosing the peroxide for a day or two. The only way that I would consider reducing the photoperiod is if I brought some of the other parameters back into more normal ranges.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:50 PM   #8
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I had some for months and finally tore it down. Mine either started with the new lights or the bio-pellets I started around the same time. I almost wanted to blame the bacteria dosing along with the pellets but I am not sure.

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Old 10-20-2011, 05:18 PM   #9
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Bummer, I was hoping it would coincide with old bulbs or something else that is relatively easy to correct. I figured it wasn't, but still that's what I was hoping for. :/

From past reading, I think CO2 and pH are two important things, and you certainly are keeping the nutrients in the tank under control. I hate to say to take the calcium reactor offline, since you'd probably go through a gallon of two-part every few days or face a tank with a rapidly declining calcium/alk level. However, that seems to be the variable that has yet to be toyed with and could be part of the problem. Maybe you could dial back your effluent on the Ca reactor and then use two-part to make up the difference for a few weeks and see if the problem might get any better?
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:20 PM   #10
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Now I know who to blame, right Odie? J/K. I think mine started when I was using substandard filtration in my frag tank, which then caused that water to get into my main tank when I connected the two systems together.

I shut the CO2 off for the reactor list night and dosed a little kalk last night and this afternoon before my lights came back on. Now I'm off to do a water change and blasting some more dinos off the glass and rocks.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:44 PM   #11
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I wonder if I'm also having the same issue...though my appears more cyano-like, there are certainly some dinos present. It grows in thing sheets on the sandbed and rocks, some of it is dark red-purple, some on the rocks black. hmmmm...time to do some research...
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:29 PM   #12
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Mines a snotty green color and loves to float on the surface in my overflow box or any other area with little surface aggetation, along with growing on walls and anything that isn't alive. If yours is red-purple, it's probably the more common cyano. Worst case with cyano if you have a tough time beating it is to go down and get some Chemi Clean from OTP. If it is dinos that you have as well, hopefully it is easier for you go get rid of than mine has been.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:13 AM   #13
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Have similar problem also.I have had slime like stuff mainly on some rocks.It starts our clearish greenish then turns brown or dark maroon but doesnt look like cyano and only on the rocks. I dont have any of that nice equipment but i keep close tabs and have been running carbon one day a week and using the micron filter pads.I've been using a magnum canister filter to remove flatworms with the polishing pleated filter so I dont think mine is a nutrient problem either.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:28 AM   #14
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One thing that I did notice is that where and when I had cyano growing it would not be present. I wonder if cyano helps compete for it. Would the anti-cyano stuff help, like Red Slime Remover.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:46 AM   #15
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I have a tube of chemiclean just never used it yet.I think for brians problem tho it sounded like he tried the chemiclean already.My bulbs are ready to be replaced so I assumed that was it.If there is such a thing as a perfect tank (no probs) I'm guessing it doesn't stay that way.
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