Sponsor Our Community
Go Back   The Reef Tank > Equipment / Methodology related Forums > Reefing Equipment > Controllers and probes

Have a question?

Our experts have the answer!



Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-15-2007, 07:10 PM   #1
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472

ORP reads 425 without ozone!


I don't know if this is an issue with where I've placed the probe, calibration, etc. It's a brand new Milwaukee ORP Controller (SMS510)

The controller has been running for about 3 weeks now and for the past week as constantly registered 420 - 425. I've tried the probe in the sump (various locations throughout the sump), the fuge and the tank.

I do get a lot of bubbles from my drains in my sump and have a 3 foot long overflow (the tank is 6' x 4' x 2').

Is this just a calibration issue, and if so, any recommendations on which calibration fluid?

Thanks!

Mike
Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 10:47 AM   #2
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
i just got an ORP probe on my AC II. i am trying to figure out also what the readings mean.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 03:58 PM   #3
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472
On another forum, it was recommended that you "clean" the probe every one to two weeks by soaking then end of it in vinegar for about 30 minutes (rinsing it off before you put it back in the tank, of course).

This did the trick for me and now the readings appear to be more accurate.

As for what the ORP reading means, in it's most simple form, I understand it to mean the "clarity" of the water in that the ozone is helping to break down the excess nutrients. This increased clarity allows the light to penetrate better.

Of course, this is my very simplistic view and not the true meaning of ORP.
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 04:17 PM   #4
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
what is a good reading? what reading are we looking to see? what range are we looking for?

i am still clueless on my ORP meter. i have not cleaned it, so i will do that when i get home tonight!

Thanks,

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 04:44 PM   #5
Loverotties
I've got the REEF rash!
 
Loverotties's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 26,404
Any where between 380 - 450 is a great reading.
__________________
Loverotties is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 06:14 PM   #6
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472
I've also heard that 375 - 400 is a good range.
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 10:13 PM   #7
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
then i have a long way to go. i am at 230.

time to really crank up the skimmer.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 09:37 AM   #8
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
OK, i think i am now understanding what you are asking.

how is your tank setup? sand/no sand? what kind of skimmer are you running? what is your bio-load.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 09:54 AM   #9
Casey
Eat more PIE
 
Casey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
Images: 111
I stay at around 350 and everything seems fine.
Casey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 05:24 PM   #10
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472
When you are first bring it up, I would recommend going slowly. I have had at least one acro loose tissue at the tips. I was forced to stop the ozone for a couple of days and I'll be turning it back on shortly. But, thinking about it, I think it would be wise when first bring the ORP readings up to go slow.

Think of it this way:

1) You are essentially increasing the power/amount of light that the corals are getting (by decreasing nutrients in the water), some corals my react similar to brand new lights are increasing lighting.

2) This is a change to the water quality, and although it is a change for the better, that does not always mean that a fish or coral won't have a negative reaction to a quick change.

Just some thoughts.
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 09:56 AM   #11
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
so far i am up in the 270 consistantly. i saw 320 for a few hours the other day. not bad for less than a week. i will keep the skimmer cranked and try and keep the reading at or above 350. i am already seeing an increase in colour of the corals.

this is all with adjusting the skimmer. i do not trust ozone.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 10:24 AM   #12
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472
Are you running your skimmer output through carbon? My ozone generator has been cranking for about a week straight and I don't worry. Although, I use a seperate reactor and run the effluent (output) from the reactor through a carbon chamber.
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 09:57 PM   #13
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
nope, no carbon, no nothing. i only run a skimmer on my system.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2007, 07:17 AM   #14
mpdharley
Little Fishy
 
mpdharley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 472
I've always read that it is highly recommended that you run carbon anywhere that any residual ozone could get out. On a skimmer, that would mean the output of the skimmer and from what I've read from some folks, even in the collection cup.

I opted to go with a dedicated ozone reactor. That way I knew that all of the acrylic pieces, tubing, etc were ozone safe. The output of the reactor then goes to a DIY carbon chamber. The carbon will "clean up" any residual ozone before the water returns to the tank.
mpdharley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2007, 09:51 AM   #15
Geoff
It can be rebuilt.
 
Geoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
Images: 166
i have also heard that it is very important to run the output through carbon.

i am not running ozone on the tank at all. i am not running anything on the tank except for a skimmer. all of my changes in ORP is done by skimming alone! i am now at the point i can tell when my skimmer stops skimming for some reason and needs to be adjusted. it seems i need to readjust the skimmer every 30 point rise in ORP. i am now seeing in the 300's consistantly.

G~
__________________
Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
Geoff is offline   Reply With Quote
xFeatured Products
250 Watt 13000K Metal Halide Bulb Double-Ended

$105 to $120

at 7 sellers

Eheim Pro Filter External Canister Aquarium Filter 2229

$250 to $440

at 10 sellers

Hagen Radiant Heater 100W 10 Inch

$8 to $10

at 7 sellers

Iwaki MD30RLXT Water Pump (Japanese Motor)

$220 to $276

at 10 sellers

250 Watt 10000K Metal Halide Bulb Double-Ended

$49 to $120

at 34 sellers

Hagen Fluval 305 Canister Filter 260 GPH

$85 to $220

at 20 sellers

Seachem Matrix Carbon Filter Media 1 Liter

$13 to $28

at 14 sellers

Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
calibration fluid , orp probe , ozone generator




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Sitemap:1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92