Yep another light question

jenajet · 07-12-2006, 10:26 AM

Can someone help me understand lighting? I have a current dual setup.
One bulb is 32 watt dual day 10,000k 6,700 k
one is 32 watt dual acentic 460k 420k

I think I need more but the guy at the lfs swears this is plenty for a 24 gallon tank. He's said he would be happy to sell me a mh light fixture but that it isn't necessary. I am so confused. I even told him that I have a pink haitian anemone, torch, and hammer coral and want to provide them with enough lighting. He said the k amount is more important than the wattage. Please some one *shed some light on this subject* for me.

Scyre · 07-12-2006, 10:36 AM

I don't know about the k value, but I'm sure tank dimensions matter, height more specifically. Many people say that there should be a certain amount of wattage per gallon of the tank, but truthfully I think the depth of the tank is more important. I have a 29 gallon that is running a 55WPC and 40W compact flourescent and everything seems to be just fine and thriving (I to have a torch, and hammer along with frogspawn, GSP, etc). If you run the numbers that is roughly 3W/gallon, the lowerside of what some consider to be the "necassary" amount. My tank is only 18 inches high or so, so it really doesn't need more than that. I'm upgrading to 2x55W though because I'm constructing a hood and dumping the eclipse.

You have all LPS in your tank, so I think with what you have (2x32W PC, correct me if I'm wrong in assuming this) you should be ok as long as they are placed higher up in the tank. You may want a bit more but if the everyone is doing fine and thriving why change anything.

Another thing, with such small tanks (both you and I), the heat that is put through into the water is much more likely to cause drastic changes then for a larger tank. . . just something to think about.

LS

jenajet · 07-12-2006, 10:54 AM

Heat is definately and issue. I have to run a large fan next to the tank to keep it at 80 during the day. The tank is 16 inches deep and almost 20 inches wide.

Geoff · 07-12-2006, 09:10 PM

that is a bit low on the light side for an anemone. if the anemone chooses to be at the top of the tank than it will prolly be fine, but anemones tend to not do what should be done.

K is important, but prolly not i the way the LFS is saying. generally speaking the higher the K the lower the PAR value. the lower the PAR the less photosynthesis energy produced. anemones are looking for PAR values. so the lower K bulbs would be better. i would prolly switch out the dual actinic to either a full 10K or another split one like the other bulb you have.

G~

jenajet · 07-12-2006, 09:21 PM

Yeah, the haitian stays at the top, he's a good boy. His color has changed from white to brown, was told this is good thing it means his zooanthanella is thriving,correct? Been there about 4 months and not a movement. I was wondering about that bulb. You mean the one that is 10'000K 10'000k instead of 10'000 6'700 right? I thought it would be brighter but they said the one I have has more spread? Don't understand that. But the acentics are okay as is?

jenajet · 07-12-2006, 11:48 PM

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=PC1325
Would it be better to use these instead? Or the same?

HowardX · 07-13-2006, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jenajet

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=PC1325
Would it be better to use these instead? Or the same?

Yes, replacing the dual actinic with that 50/50 would help but another dual daylight bulb would be even a bit better. Even with your heat issue, try and keep the bulbs as close to the water surface as possible and no more than 3-4" if possible. Also make sure your acrylic shield is always clean.

jenajet · 07-13-2006, 02:58 AM

I keep that baby cleaned and the lights are only and inch maybe two at the most off the water. I only have two slots available which is why I am trying to figure best way to optimize the lighting. Are you saying go with the dual 10000 in both slots or the dual 10000 in one and then the dual 50/50 in the other? that would be a total of 30000 day and just the 460 acentic? If I could squeeze another ballast in this baby I would but don't think there is enough room.

HowardX · 07-13-2006, 10:06 AM

For the most PAR you can use (2) of the dual daylight lamps or (2) of the 10K lamps or a combo of both. You can also substitute one of the daylight bulbs for a 50/50 (10K/460K) bulb to get a touch of blue. For the most PAR I would just use (2) of the 6500K/10K dual daylight bulbs, but keep in mind that will still be marginal lighting at best......would be better to upgrade to either 2 X 65W PCs or far better yet to get T5s, even (2) 24W T5 HOs with IC individual reflectors will blow away the PCs and run cooler and use less power and the bulbs will last much longer too.

jenajet · 07-13-2006, 01:27 PM

The 65 watt are too big to fit. I really want the current mh orbit. But right now I am really wanting a larger tank so am keeping the money for that. I think I will try the dual 10000k and a 50/50 bulb. I don't want to remove all the blue. I know the day bulb thats in there makes the tank look yellow and dark, once the acentic comes on it's seem so much brighter. I just dont want to spend a fortune for lighting this tank when I know I want something bigger and planning to get it in the very near future.

HowardX · 07-13-2006, 01:38 PM

Just FYI.....it's the 6500K side of the dual daylight bulb that gives off that ugly yellow hue. Also, the 10K bulbs already have a lot of blue in the spectrum so they can really be run without actinic supplements and not look too bad. The Current brand 10K PC bulbs also seem to give off more of a hazy white/yellow color as opposed to the 10K Coralife PC bulbs which are more of a white/blue.

Twitterbait · 07-13-2006, 01:56 PM

Remember Intensity over Kelvin rating. the bulb can be totally blue but it don't mean nothing if the light is not powerful enough to penetrate the water. the standard is 5w per gallon and i have never had an issue when i have used that as a minimum. the LFS guy need to do a little more research. you should have 150w over the current tank for everything to thrive... of course if your anenome is doing ok right now i wouldn't worry about it so much. save up your money for the new tank but remember to save up for lighting too

jenajet · 07-13-2006, 02:12 PM

Definately on the new tank I will skip this lighting conundrum and go straight to either T5 or mh, maybe a combination. Need to start researching those lights to I quess. My bulbs are only 3 months old. Maybe I will get 2 of the 10,000 see how it looks. If its still more yellow I can alway thow my acentic bulb back in.
Oh and I think the only reason my haitian is doing well is because he sits about 4 inches below the light and gets fed regularly. I'm glad he picked a high spot to stay put. I won't worry too much about him unless he's moves lower in the tank, he's been their a few months now.
Now when you say 150 watt you mean pc or in general. The orbit comes in 70 Watt MH and 150 MH. I figure if I put out that kind of money might as well get the higher it's about $50 more for double the wattage.

HowardX · 07-13-2006, 02:34 PM

<<< Now when you say 150 watt you mean pc or in general. The orbit comes in 70 Watt MH and 150 MH. >>>

'Watts per gallon' is a pretty vague and unreliable point of reference these days beacuse different types of lighting offer far more 'PAR per watt' than others. For example.....HO ATI/Giesemann T5s with Ice Cap individual reflectors or an XM 10K or Iwasaki 6500K metal halide bulb will probably give nearly twice the PAR than the same wattage PC bulbs. Also, different spectrum bulbs within the same type of lighting can vary greatly in PAR output, some nearly twice others.