New T-5 Bulbs tested

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(6k) Giesemann	54W 6000K Midday Sun T5 HO Fluorescent	$18.95
(11k)Giesemann	54W 11000K Aquablue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent	$21.95
(B+)Giesemann	54W Actinic/Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent	$20.95
(GA)Giesemann	54W Pure Actinic 03 T5 HO Fluorescent	$25.95
(10k)UV Lighting	54W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent	$21.95
(12k)UV Lighting	54W 12000K Actinic White (50/50) T5 HO Fluorescent	$21.95
(UVA) Lighting	54W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent	$21.95

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equipment
http://reefgeek.com/products/categor...ng/104067.html

http://reefgeek.com/products/categor...ng/104599.html

http://www.apogee-inst.com/bqm_spec.htm

We took a few shots of the set up... but I am missing my card reader at this time.

Basically, we ran one bulb at a time. Waited till the bulb settled down (the new bulbs would burn really bright then settle down after a couple of minutes). Then we added the SS reflector and find the brightest mark, then swapped it for the IC reflector.

I did not test the 6k I have because it is old and ugly, I did test the GA, but it has been burning for about three years. The GE 6.5k (not listed in the first post) tested was also black on the ends and very old. I have tested these before against the 11k. New, it has consistently come up brighter.

The long and short of everything is... these bulbs all have enough PAR that you should get the color you like. You should also get the IC reflector upgrade (5 bucks a shot at reefgeek).

Warning! JIMO ahead:

Personally, I like the B+ and 11k, but I will be trying t use the UVA, because it does defiantly get some nice glow Hopefully David G and Clownnut will post their preferences after seeing all the bulbs.

The 12k seemed fine, but I felt the 11k was crisper.

I don't like how the 6k look and the GE day is better for less. I don't like the GE day either (yellow) and with the other bulbs only 15% less PAR, and the prices dropping on the bulbs... no thanks. The 10k is too pink for my taste.

Note these opinions are only after seeing the bulbs one at a time, not in a mix.

Next post, PAR readings.

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PAR TEST / FIXED POINT ~5.5" / No Water


BULB NR... SS... IC
NEW BULBS:

ATI/Giesemann:
11K.....98...201...264
B+......83...163...213

UVL:
10K.....79....158...214
12K.....77....161...205
UVA.....57....117...160

2-3year OLD bulbs:
GE.......83...153...210
GA......13.....26.....34

NR= no reflector. There was a white board behind the bulb. White boards are more reflective than cheep foil slap-ons. I figure most people will have at least a white hood.
SS= Sunlight Supplys
IC= Ice Cap

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Ballast:

A few months ago I did some tests with the balast used above and a 660. I used a regular lux meeter (Lux and PAR folow the same diminishing curve I have been told). The % increase in power consumtion was ~ = to the increase in Lux.

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All tests were done on the same tank. But here is a shot for some contrast. Photos are unedited.

[Nyles]

Nice work! I have been running the B+ and 11k for sometime.

I have learned with my 155 gallon at 24" tall I can successfully "grow" acro SPS on the floor. Amazing lights!

I think one of the things to stress is getting a top quality reflector (parabolic design)

[Wiskey]

Very cool, I have a LUX meater, and 4*54W T5 with the SS reflectors, here are some of the Lux readings I got.

http://thereeftank.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=12

Thanks for the readings,
Whiskey

[HFG]

Thanks for the link!

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Update, all the giesemann bulbs should read ATI

[REEFSTOCK]

[Wiskey]

Hey this thread is back.

I did manage to find something out about T5's. If you have a normally driven SLS fixture or retro you really NEED to cram as many bulbs as you can over it.

I had my 4*54 over a 12 inch wide 50 gallon tank and was getting light readings that were plenty enough to keep SPS, and underlighting was not a problem.

However; I moved the contents of that tank into a 125G tank, and used the 4*54 fixture to light the left 4 foot of the tank. Now tank is 18 inches wide, so insted of adding another 2 bulbs I just spaced them out.

I now have underlighting problems. Corals past the half way mark suffer, and even at the top of the tank colors are dark, although I have good growth I can tell that I will benifit from more light. I currently have the T5 2 inches off the water to get as much out of it as possible.

The question to me was "do I want to go with 6, four foot T5's, and 6 two foot T5's to cover this tank properly, or just go with 3 MH?" The T5 bulb replacement costs would kill me, so MH it is.

I will continue to use the T5 over my softie tank (insted of the PC's on there now) because the bulbs will last longer than PC bulbs, but for SPS in a 6 foot tank it looks like MH makes more sence to me, especially when XM 10K bulbs burn strong for 2 years.

Whiskey

[Nyles]

To cover 18" wide and 24" deep on a bow that goes from 18"-24"-18" I had to go with 8 simply because I didnt want my SPS all at the top. I would say 4 is not enough, 6 will get you by..... 8 is perfect.

[REEFSTOCK]

If your tank is dominate SPS, it seems MH is the way to go (on a display) anyhow. So far all the folks in our club who have done both feel they get richer colors from their SPS. Not better growth or more healthy necessarily, but better color. Now, there are probably SPS that will look better under T-5 and others better under PC or VHO (as this is ALL anecdotal). It's just that most people want to get the Oregon tort or Tyree LE or... and those are typically grown under 20k MH. So, the most traded corals are best under MH. Or, perhaps all acros have lighter color under MH... or perhaps we are just blasting them with T-5 as they do not profit from the wave action constantly dimming and strengthening a source point light.....OK enough rambling.
Certainly, at this time, we collectively have the most knowledge of how to use and best results from MH lights.
T-5 is the best second choice (and has all the obvious advantages over MH) when you need a bright source of lighting.

[90_berlin_joe]

Don't want to flame any MH guys. BUTT!!!!! Tests show All that MH has over T5 is shimmer. Oh yeah and the increase of heat, price and maintenance!!! Running T5 IMHO is the best way to go. price on bulbs cost 20per every 14 months when MH bulbs cost what $60per every 6 months. Then you have to add all these fans, chillers, canopy oh yeah and your other lights [i.e PC, VHO's or even TADA T5's] cause you should not run MH 12hrs a day

Everyone save yourself some money, headache and time. Go with T5-HO's and never look back.

T5-HO TEK owner and very happy at that.

On a 2 bulb MH unit cost per year
MH bulb = $120.00
mh ballast hood or DIY 500.00[very low end]
fans= 2 @ 20.00 [low end] replace ever 2 years
chiller = 100.00per year up to what 4 years [low end]
Other lights = 100.00 for pc,vho----$40 for T5
Total if i am lying im dying! =840[low end]for the first year and 300.00 plus electric usage per year after.

On a 8bulb T5 unit less on 6 or 4 bulb.
TEK 8 bulb 500.00
8 bulbs 160.00
no chiller
no fans
no canopy
no other lights
nada, zip, nothing!!!!
total =660.00 first year saving 240 [low end] and 160 every year after that. That is a savings of 180 first year [low end] and 140 every year after. Make sure you add in the savings on the house electricity.

[Nyles]

I thank you for doing all this testing and Im sure you have collected great data, I will only disagree with you on coloration with t-5. With the right brand / combo just as with MH you can get top quality show color. Just as I have seen brown corals from mh, I have with T5, and vice versa. I think thats its a little bit of a false statement. But it depends on the bulbs your using.

I have seen t-5 setups that would knock the socks off almost any MH setup (any I have seen) but I honestly dont beleive the colors where from the bulbs, but from good husbandry along with a "PROPER" bulb that gave a good spectum.