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Old 08-06-2009, 02:21 PM   #1
tdwyatt
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New PC or Hard drive?


I keep reading about folks that have crashes or extremely SLOW processing speeds when the get new systems, or even when updating their hard drives. A Microsoft Windows PC that has not been updated for security vulnerabilities will be compromised by some from of malware within minutes (less than 12) of connecting to the Internet. Take steps to protect yourself before you start Web surfing.

It is only natural, when you get a brand new PC, especially one with broadband capabilities built-in, you want to connect to the Internet and see it action. For many, the browser and the World Wide Web are the "killer-apps" of the modern PC—the Internet is what you have a PC for, everything else is just extra fluff.

However, connecting to the Internet with a new unprotected and unpatched PC is practically inviting the nefarious and malicious to infect your PC. According to research published by Sophos in July 2005, there is about a 50 percent chance that an unpatched PC will be infected with malicious software within 12 minutes of connecting to the Internet. Once infected, it is almost impossible to get a PC clean again without completely re-installing the operating system. (We are restricting this conversation to Windows PCs for the moment, sorry Cath...)

To prevent the frustration that comes with re-installing Windows, you should take the necessary steps to update, configure, and patch your new PC. Keep in mind that no matter how new your PC is, it will most likely need patching and it will definitely need to be properly configured. Here are 10 basic things you should do before attaching the Internet to a new PC.

1. Make a starter CD-ROM
Before you disconnect your old computer, take a few minutes to burn a starter CD-ROM that contains the latest version of your favorite anti-virus software. I prefer to keep this simple and inexpensive by using AVG from Grisoft, but if you like Norton or McAfee those will work just as well.
To save time later, you should put other security applications on this disk like Spybot Search & Destroy, AdAware, etc. It would also be a good idea to include any updated drivers you might need—drivers for your video card for example. Just like Windows, your video card drivers are likely to be a little old also. You should also put drivers on this disk for peripherals that you will be connecting to your new PC, like cameras, scanners, printers, and game interface devices. Having all of these device drivers residing on a single CD-ROM means you will not have to go to the Internet to retrieve them as you set up your new PC.

2. Remove the promotional apps
After going through the initial setup process where Windows identifies devices you may be asked to register and/or activate your copy of the Windows operating system—hold off on that for now, you can always do that later. This first thing to do is to clean up the mess that shipped in your PC. You should remove all of the promotional and trial software that you do not intend to use from your new PC. This is usually the first thing I do, because invariably one of those apps will ask if I want to activate it or register it—a process that usually involves accessing the Internet. (Some times they don't ask—they just assume I want them on my pristine PC). At this point you should have no connection to the Internet at all, wireless or not.

The applications to be deleted are usually ISPs advertisements like AOL and Earthlink, an antivirus app from a competitor of your current application (something you should already have ready on your CD-ROM), trial versions of Money or Quickbooks, etc. If you are not going to use these, go to the Add/Remove Programs applet in the Control Panel and remove them completely.

3. Install antivirus software
Install the antivirus software that you burned onto a CD-ROM in step 1. The assumption is that any PC purchased after this document is published will have Windows XP SP2 installed, but if SP2 is not installed, you could have that update ready on your disk too. In fact, if you know how, you could have some of the more important Windows patches and updates on your disk also. This would be a good time to install anti-spyware software too.

4. Turn on a software firewall
Windows XP SP2 comes with a modest but still useful software firewall. Before you start surfing the Internet you should turn it on—or you can install an alternative third-party software firewall like Zone Alarm. Any alternative firewalls should have been included on the startup CD-ROM you made in Step 1.

5. Install printers and other peripherals
Before you connect to the Internet it is a good idea to install your other peripherals to your new PC. Performing this step means that when you do connect to the Windows update page, it will see your devices and make suggestions for new Microsoft-tested (WHQL) drivers if they are available.

6. Establish a password for the administrator account
One of the most glaring security vulnerabilities in any new Windows-based PC is that it ships with a wide open administrator access to the root directory. You never want anyone but you to have unfettered access to the admin settings on your PC. And while a password could easily be bypassed by a skilled cracker, it will deter the less determined intruder.

7. Create a new user account with password
This is almost as equally important as password protecting your administrator account. For general day-to-day activities, you do not want to be using your admin account. Instead, you should be using a user account that is also password protected (a password that is different than the one you are using for the admin account, please). This adds another layer of protection for your new PC because a user account does not have the same all-access permissions as an admin account. In some cases, malicious software will be thwarted by this level of permissions restriction alone.

8. Turn off unnecessary Windows services

Microsoft has been doing a better job of this with the release of SP2, but there are still numerous unnecessary Windows services and processes running by default on most PCs. If you'd like to see how many there are just perform the three finger salute (CTRL-ALT-Delete) click Task Manager and then the Processes tab. All of those applications, services, processes, etc. are operating in the background on your PC. The problem is that many can actually open access to your PC to the outside world without your knowledge or active consent. That access is usually justified for what the process is supposed to be doing, it is just that many times your PC doesn't need that process at all—Web servers, network messengers, debuggers—are all processes you probably don't need on your personal PC. (Check out this TechRepublic download for an in-depth examination of these services and for some suggestions for which can be deactivated.)

9. Establish a system restore point
Now that you have performed the first eight steps you should take a moment to establish a system restore point. To manually create a Restore Point, you launch the System Restore utility by clicking Start | All Programs | Accessories | System Tools | System Restore and then follow the steps in the wizard. This step will establish a fall back point if something happens to go haywire later.

10. Install and configure a router
This last step may seem like an unnecessary added expense to some, but in this age of viruses, worms, and other nasty Internet infections, a router standing between you and the outside world coming at you at broadband speeds offers another significant layer of protection. Connecting a PC directly to the Internet means that PC gets its own IP address, which means it can be seen by every sleazebag with malicious intent. By adding a router to your broadband setup, the router gets the visible IP address and gives your new PC an internal address. In addition, routers have hardware firewalls and other features that help block the bad guys before they get to your new PC.
This is especially helpful because the first thing you should do when you do actually connect to the Internet is head directly for Windows Update. This is the most important tip in this guide—the only place you should be heading on the Web when you first connect your PC to the Internet is the Windows Update page. You will not have time to check movie times or football scores. The 12 minute countdown to possible infection starts as soon as connect.
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:14 AM   #2
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Great advice Tom, thats pretty mush what my son did when he built this PC, and what Wiskey did when he set up the lappy he so graciously provided me with
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:13 AM   #3
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First thing I do on a new laptop is reformat (from a windows disc, not the included MFG CD) and bring it up to my own personal standards. That promo software that comes on a new PC is crap.

I build my desktops so I don't have to worry about any promo stuff.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:42 AM   #4
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It is amzing to me that the manufcturers do not send out a sheet like this to protect new computer owners...


OOPS! I forgot that the crap on the disks much like malware out there is driven by greed or misdirected pride.
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdwyatt View Post
It is amzing to me that the manufcturers do not send out a sheet like this to protect new computer owners...


OOPS! I forgot that the crap on the disks much like malware out there is driven by greed or misdirected pride.
I am sure they just want to make sure you have all the tools to make your puter experience safe and pleasant, just like Microslops constant efforts to make their OS better, faster, safer
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:15 AM   #6
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Tom, i could not agree more!

I highly recommend getting a computer built by someone who knows what they are doing over buying prebuilt systems these days. the average prebuilt PC will last 2-4 years max without a major fix-up (IME) whereas a good custom system can last 6-10 years and can be upgraded for much less along the way without replacing the whole system.

the cost can be more for a basic custom job but i have found the cost to actually be less if you want a powerful system. custom build is the way to go. I build the systems for my family and close friends and a good rule of thumb for me is I (and any good builder) will completly install all windows updates and a virus/malware program on my protected network so when i give the computer to the recipient they are safe with or without a router.

when looking for a builder ask them what is the age of their oldest customer. if they can build a safe PC for a person 65+ then they know how to do their job (I support my 90 yr old grandma)

I can never stress enough how much better and more stable a custom built system is. most prebuilds are so loaded down with extra software and crap that they simply cannot run effeciently.

on a side note, I also recommend using caution when buying a printer. a lot of printers will load a bunch of useless crap on your computer and slow it down as well. the worst offender... HP, they are just awful. my favorite, Cannon

And lastly EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE AN EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE WITH A WEEKLY/MONTHLY BACKUP OF ALL IMPORTANT DATA!!! they are cheap, you can actually make one with a regular hard drive and an enclosure for less than $100. My brother had to pay over $1000 to recover info from a hard drive that crashed with all the family photos. now he has an external drive. additionally, in a fire or natural disaster, all you need to do is grab the drive as you run out and you will have all your data.

PM me if you have questions, i highly recommend newegg.com for prices.
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Twitterbait View Post
...on a side note, I also recommend using caution when buying a printer. a lot of printers will load a bunch of useless crap on your computer and slow it down as well. the worst offender... HP, they are just awful. my favorite, Cannon

And lastly EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE AN EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE WITH A WEEKLY/MONTHLY BACKUP OF ALL IMPORTANT DATA!!! they are cheap, you can actually make one with a regular hard drive and an enclosure for less than $100. My brother had to pay over $1000 to recover info from a hard drive that crashed with all the family photos. now he has an external drive. additionally, in a fire or natural disaster, all you need to do is grab the drive as you run out and you will have all your data.

PM me if you have questions, i highly recommend newegg.com for prices.
Ditto, Costco now has a terabyte external HD for ~$100 USD.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:29 PM   #8
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Backups are essential. With the price of storage as low as it is, there is absolutely no reason for data loss. Especially when it comes up to backing up pictures and other irreplaceable data.


I've lost a 750gb drive at about 85% capacity back before I started backing up every piece of data that goes through my system. That really was not cool; it wasn't irreplaceable data, but it was a lot of work to get back where I was (rips of all my DVD's for my media system).

Now I have a dedicated backup computer that holds all my backup drives; about 5TBs worth.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:16 PM   #9
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We didn't do quite all that but I removed most of the extra crap from Cynthia's Dell. We added a 500 GB external hard drive for pictures (and save the SD cards).

I have a modem then a router for the internet for protection, and we only use Mozilla. The wireless is WPA instead of the cruddy WEP that is an option easily hacked.

There are more steps you listed Tom, but I think we are in pretty good shape.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:21 AM   #10
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Thanks Tom - I do all this before connecting a new computer to the 'net.

Question to anyone - My router has a firewall, thus I haven't run the Windows firewall. I've always heard that two firewalls cause conflicts... ??

Also: I didn't realize the Admin password and user password were necessary for security from the "outside". I figured that was to keep kids, neighbors, family from "messing things up" on one's computer. I've never set pwds since no one gets on my computer - SHOULD I?

I've yet to have a computer get infected.... hope I didn't just jinx myself.

One more question:
When I have photos and word docs organized but scattered all over two internal drives and two external drives, with backups done once in awhile, what's the best way to back up ONLY the latest data saved and not everything all over again? I can't possibly go find every new file I created and back it up...

Thanks! And thanks for your efforts in writing all this out for people.
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