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04-30-2006, 10:01 PM
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#1
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Goldstripe's 150
Most of these pictures at the start of this will be in the same order as my other thread but the club has migrated so here we go. I bought this tank over a year ago, the same order from Rob's that Lageo04's tank came in on. Looking back, I'm glad that I didn't rush to set it up and have it going in a month because I've learned so much from other club members and LFS folks and the boards.
Seems like we have a bunch of projects going on in the club these days.
The tank is a Perfecto 150 (48x24x30) There have been many firsts in this project for me. First time building a stand being one of them. As the stand came together I got better and better with wood working, a new hobby that I enjoy.
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04-30-2006, 10:01 PM
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#2
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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In hindsight I would have changed how the frame was constructed but I was too far into it to change. The 2x4's are all clear Douglas Fir doubled up and gorilla glued and screwed together. I used 1/8" thick "L" brackets everywhere with 8 screws in each. After the frame was built, I used West System epoxy to cover all of the 2x4's with 3 coats. Not only does it protect very well, it does add some strength to the structure.
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04-30-2006, 10:03 PM
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#3
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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And filling the tank to test the frame. I was a little nervous at this point!!

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04-30-2006, 10:04 PM
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#4
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Midway through building this thing I decided that I wanted a bigger cabinet so things weren't so cramped underneath. I also wanted to put in a freshwater resevoir for topoff. I hate having to fill my current tank with a gallon jug everyday. So, I added 1 foot on the side and 10" to the back to fit the resevoir behind the sump. I also added an opening on the top of the stand so I can access the skimmer from the top. I hate having to sit down to get to my skimmer cup now. Here's a pic of the stand sitting on its back right after I cut the openings for the front doors.

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04-30-2006, 10:05 PM
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#5
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Here's a different angle to show the top and front skimmer access. The stand is still sitting on it's back side.

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04-30-2006, 10:06 PM
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#6
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Almost done with the trim work.

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04-30-2006, 10:07 PM
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#7
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Trim work completed. I didn't use any screws or nails on the trim to avoid having to fill holes. I used Titebond 3 wood glue and man is that some strong stuff. I can't even begin to try and pry off the trim.

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04-30-2006, 10:08 PM
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#8
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Another first for me was applying finish to the stand. This was one part of the project that I really did not enjoy. I had a very difficult time with staining on different woods. The plywood is 3/4" Birch and the trim is well I have no idea but I'd venture to say it's pine which sucks for staining. I probably had 100 test pieces in the garage testing various colors to see how the different woods would take the stain. Glad that's overwith, except for the canopy ughh!! Here's a shot of the finished stand sitting in what will be it's final destination. I used 2-3 coats of stain and 6 coats of wipe on polyurethane. On the inside I sealed up the bottom of the stand with epoxy mixed with filler. In the event of a spill, the entire bottom of the stand can be filled up the first 4" or so before it starts spilling out onto the carpet. After I sealed the inside I put on 2 coats of white Easypoxy 1 part epoxy paint. That brightened up things a bunch underneath.

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04-30-2006, 10:10 PM
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#9
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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The next "super fun" part of this project was drilling holes in the back of the tank. My overflow system has evolved into what I hope to be a great sytem. I'm going to use a Calfo style overflow that spans the whole back wall of the tank. I'll show some pics of that in a minute. For now here's a couple of me drilling and setting up the plumbing.

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04-30-2006, 10:10 PM
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#10
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Two holes done four more to go!!

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04-30-2006, 10:12 PM
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#11
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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A shot of the tank with all the holes done and back up on the stand. Some of my plumbing is in place. The tinted glass you see is the overflow. The top plumbing is obviously the drains. The two midway down are my closed loop intakes. I may use different strainers I'm not sure yet. Those are quite large. The bottom two holes are for 2 of the 4 closed loop outputs. The closed loop will consist of a Reeflo Dart mated with an Ocean Motions 4 way unit.

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04-30-2006, 10:13 PM
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#12
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Here's another shot of the Calfo box. Silicone is hard to keep neat but I think it turned out decent.
side shot of the box. The inside dimensions of the box are 4 1/4" wide (off the back of the tank) x 5 3/4" tall. The top lip of the box is 1/4" above the bottom of the black trim. This theoretically, will be my water level.

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04-30-2006, 10:14 PM
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#13
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Speaking of firsts, in this shot you can see the sump that I built for this setup. It measures 40x18x16 which equates to ~ 50 gallons. This is modeled after melev's model F. I know a couple of you saw it at the last meeting at Rob's Reef. Acrylic work takes some practice to get clear joints and I got much better towards the end. The drains come in on the left which is where the skimmer will be (ASM G3). Water will flow through the bubble trap into the middle return area. I tried to make this area as big as possible for evaporation reasons. On the right side is the fuge which will be fed by a "T" off the return pump. The skimmer will also be fed off the return pump when I do the recirc mod to it. I've got the uniseals, just need to do it.

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04-30-2006, 10:15 PM
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#14
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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A closer look at the plumbing. Originally I wanted to Tee off the drains to feed the skimmer and fuge but after more research I found that regulating the flow into the skimmer from a drain is easier said than done. So this is how I have it as of now. The return pump is an Iwaki MD70 which is rated 1500 GPH @ 4' of head pressure.

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04-30-2006, 10:15 PM
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#15
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Certifiable Tank Driller
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 331
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Some of this plumbing may change, who knows. It's a work in progress and I'm learning as I go. Many thanks to all who have helped me so far, especially with the return pump issue!! That's about all I have for now but I will update as things progress. Here's a shot of my tub of live rock in the garage. I have no more room in my current tank to fit it.

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Tags
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ball valve
,
closed loop intake
,
dolphin ampmaster
,
halide bulb
,
iwaki md
,
iwaki pump
,
mother colony
,
pink birdsnest
,
recirc mod
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reef optix
,
reef optix iii
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