Need advice on painting R&J stand

[PelagicMagic]

I found a 120 tec with R J stand and canopy. The stand and canopy is black which will not fit with the rest of our furniture. Whats the best way to paint the stand and canopy a dark brown?

I was thinking about a light sanding then painting the stand/canopy white with Kills, then a top coat of the new color and varnish.

I also called R and J and they told me to use a lacquer based paint to "burn" into the black stain.

I would like to do it right the first time around.

Thanks!

[OneDummHikk]

Complete sanding with 80 grit sandpaper.
1 coat Kilz.
Wait 24 hours.
Second coat Kilz.
Make sure it stays white and that the black hasn't bled back through. If it bleeds through, the kilz coat will appear to be tinted.
1 coat of a lacquer based primer.
1 coat of a lacquer based paint.
Seal as desired.

Lacquer based paint sticks a lot better to lacquer based primer than it does Kilz, even if you use laquer based Kilz.

[PelagicMagic]

Thank you very much! This is what I was looking for. Can I use an orbital sander or should I sand by hand?

[OneDummHikk]

Orbital is fine. Just make sure you don't sand through previous coats when sanding between coats. When I get to the clear coat stages, I prefer to sand by hand but its just a personal preference. I doubt you could find 1 out of 100 cabinet shops that sand cabinets by hand.

[PelagicMagic]

what grit should I use when sanding between coats and the clear coat? whats a good clear coat and sealer to use?

[OneDummHikk]

I usually use 220 or 320. For a long time I used 220 and switched to 320 simply because it was easier for me to get 320 than 220 because I was buying in bulk to do wood and cars and you use 320 on a car. Either is fine to use though. You aren't really trying to remove anything as much as simply scuff the surface so that the next layer sticks properly.

Try the 320 and if you see the scratches in between coats (you shouldn't with 320 but its possible) then you could go to 400 but most cabinet shops use 220 between sealer and clear coats.

As for a good sealer and clear coat, the best way to decide that is to ask the paint store what to use over the particular paint or stain that you use and what you intend to go over it. It sounds like a cop out but it isn't. If you don't use compatible products, you get a catastrophe in the end.

For stains, I typically use 100% Minwax line of products. The stain, sealer, and polyurethane. For paint, I get it from a cabinet shop and to be honest, I have no idea what brand it is. I just tell him what I am painting, we decide how much I need, he puts it in buckets for me, takes my $$$ and I go home. But its a commercial brand of paint he uses.

Sherwin Williams would be the first place to start looking. Its a little more expensive but the experience and knowledge of the people at Sherwin Williams has always been a lot better for me than what you run into at Lowe's or Home Depot.

[PelagicMagic]

If I bring a drawer from a piece of furniture to Sherwin can they color match it?

[OneDummHikk]

Yes, they can match it. They will do a color sample and then tint it to match the color for you. They do it almost exactly the same way HD and Lowes do it.

When are you going to be painting? This weekend?

[PelagicMagic]

I hope to have the tank sometime next week.

[Loverotties]

Good luck with it!SW will be able to show you what you need to do the job right.