Dreaded Aiptapsia

Caoineag · 03-20-2006, 01:21 PM

Ok so I originally posted this in general but obviously we are having some changes.

I have 4 types of aiptapsia, 3 are the traditional glass type which is why I started doing research on them, and the last kind is a red and white banded aiptapsia (maybe seen photos suggesting both ways).

No matter what, I am probably keeping the 2 red and white ones I have since they have been with me since day 1 of this tank and they haven't reproduced in three months.

The glass anemones however, may or may not have been with me that long. They are tiny and have not been reproducing that I can see but doesn't mean they won't.

Did some research, seems aiptapsia only goes nuts where there is excess nutrients so its not surprising mine haven't reproduced yet.

I am taking your bets on how long before the glass anemones start reproducing. What do you think? Soon, never, or somewhere in between?

Mr.Reef · 03-20-2006, 01:36 PM

My pepermint shrimp devours glass aptasia's.

tims · 03-21-2006, 04:18 PM

If you can find a predator that likes them you will be better off in the long run, once they get to a certain size they seem to spread a bit more. not sure if it is a maturity thing or not.

autochek · 03-21-2006, 05:13 PM

I have a problem in my 90G seahorse tank with them. I tried the copperband and it died. I tried the pepermint shrimp and the seahorses ate them. The only thing that works is a very thick past made with Kalk and Ro. Mix it up and inject it with a srynge.
Be careful if you do, this can have an effect on your PH if you use too much.

VWD · 03-21-2006, 11:04 PM

I agree here, Kalk paste. Inject in the mouth area while it is open. It will take it in and burn it. We do it all the time and it works.

Quote:

Originally Posted by autochek

I have a problem in my 90G seahorse tank with them. I tried the copperband and it died. I tried the pepermint shrimp and the seahorses ate them. The only thing that works is a very thick past made with Kalk and Ro. Mix it up and inject it with a srynge.
Be careful if you do, this can have an effect on your PH if you use too much.

SeahorseFanatic · 03-25-2006, 06:15 PM

hey. a simple Peppermint shrimp will do the trick for Glass Aptasia, but if you really want to kill it all go with this stuff here

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch..._Code=Medicine

Geoff · 03-26-2006, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by autochek

I have a problem in my 90G seahorse tank with them. I tried the copperband and it died. I tried the pepermint shrimp and the seahorses ate them. The only thing that works is a very thick past made with Kalk and Ro. Mix it up and inject it with a srynge.
Be careful if you do, this can have an effect on your PH if you use too much.

how big are your seahorses!!

i peps i get are usually an inch and a half long. then in a couple of months they get will be over 3".

G~

Nyles · 04-19-2006, 06:47 PM

I have peppermints, don't seem to care about it, but Kalk paste works

Caoineag · 04-19-2006, 10:14 PM

Sorry, should have updated this one awhile back. Just as with the isopods, my puffer ate the only one in the main tank

Now the only place I have them is in my refugium. If they start multiplying I will put the infected rocks in with the puffer

ChrisPrusha · 04-19-2006, 10:16 PM

That puffer of yours is something else!

Caoineag · 04-19-2006, 10:31 PM

What is really hilarious is that he hasn't touched any of my corals, hangs out with my other fish like he is one of the good ol boys, and eats algae.

No aggression, thinks he is a vegetarian (except when I add shrimp live or dead, but then he lets the foxface eat the shrimp with him

) and eats any pest that my tank can produce.

Boy do I have it good.

tdwyatt · 04-22-2006, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caoineag

What is really hilarious is that he hasn't touched any of my corals...

yet...

Remember that Aiptasia spp. are cnidarians, too.

I find that using a turkey juice infuser designed for injecting marinaides into turkey breasts just prior to deep frying are the best syringes for kalk paste. Mix it to the consistency of thin toothpaste using RO/DI water (caution, it will get HOT), then let it drip through very coarse gauze to remove the chucks (or mix it in a mortar and pestle for a smooth paste/slurry). Pull it up in the syringe, then attach the large bore injector needle and start killing Aiptasia spp. and Anemonea cf. majano.

BTW, the drop in pH is transient, as it is due to the removal of the CO2 from the water column to build alkalinity in your water column by the Ca(OH)2. CO2 is so soluble in ASW that it will quickly (within minutes) be replaced and you will see the pH drop back to WNL in less than 15 minutes. You'll be able to tell if there is too much kalk in the water column if a haze starts to develop in the water, this will be when you are very close to the supersaturation limit for Ca++ with respect to alkalinity, and can be corrected for with a teaspoonful of white vinegar (to drop the pH and solubilize the calcium carbonte forming, it won't take much) if you are worried about the pending precipatory event. Personally, at the rate that you would be adding kalk to the water, I would not worry about this happening, but now that I've said it, I'm sure someone will show me wrong...

Very slow day here today, amazingly enough I have not seen a patient in about an hour...

Dreaded Aiptapsia

Sorry Guys Update