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Old 07-02-2010, 11:45 PM   #1
Nawest
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Setups to make your own RO water


Hey, right now I'm using tap water (treating for the chlorine) for my water changes and tank top offs.

Our water comes from a wale and has alot of stray salts and minerals, can someone help me find a thread/guide to making/where to buy a ro water filter? and for now should I be using ro/distilled water from my grocery store?

I have a longnose hawkfish, blue damsel, and lawnmower blenny. 30 g tank. Also a coloney of about 15 red/brown mushrooms that are doing great (then again I bought them at that size and have only have them for a month)

The tanks been running for 4 months, has about 30+ live rock and coral life lights. Not exactly sure how good the coral life lights are, (Should it give model details on the light fixture?) The mushrooms love it, but I've heard they like low lighting.

I would like to start keeping some non soft corals but would like to know what things are a must before I make the jump, thanks.

I know alot of this information is probably already out there (having a hard time finding stuff), a simple link to another thread would still be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:02 AM   #2
Fish Lord
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Hey nawest I answered your earlier questions, now the RO you can buy RO units from most aquarium retailers. This is the one I have: http://allpetdepot.com/CL-50GPD-RO-U...B000BJNL8I.htm

It works great for me. A good RO unit will run you anywhere from 120 to 200 dollars. Before I got the RO unit I used dechlorinator. It worked great then I just decided to get an RO unit. The dechlorinator should be fine. I get my water from the well too.

Some info on the light would be appreciated. Mushrooms like low light like you said, although before you try hard corals like Acropora, Montipora etc. You will need to get a Metal Halide or T5 light fixture. If you have a good enough light, you may want to try some LPS such as Frogspawn, Bubble, or Hammer Corals. These are great for beginners. Get some more experience with soft corals first, try some zoanthids, or xenia. You may want to get a protein skimmer if you don't have one yet.

Oh yeah, and you may want to lose the damsel, those are some of the most aggressive fish I've seen. May want to trade him in for a clownfish, or a chromis.
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:41 AM   #3
Nawest
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Thanks for the info fish lord, you've helped alot (alot). I might put off the ro for now, the declorinator seems to be doing fine. Skimmer and better lights prob need to come first. I'll def go for the begginar lps corals (when the time, and uh money comes lol) and was hoping to pick up a couple diff zoanthid frags when I pick up my baby sis b-day gift (non agressive clown, not marron bad experience with them) Also a blue mush frag.

I do, however, have a xenia frag in my tank.

Sad story, in my 16g tank I had 2 xenia stalks that did GREAT (like for a period of 4 months) inbetween that time period I went from having 2 ,that I bought, to four. I also went on to buy a owl eye coral. My owl eye coral did AWESOME. That hungry sob ate like crazy, dragging food with his tenticles to his center mouth. Grew and fanned himself out until he pract took up the entire bottom part of my tank. He did great for 3 months

I had some algae like bubbles pop up arround him and the xenia and it looked like snot trapped air bubbles. I've read this is bad/possibly posion is? My owl eye coral threw up its stomich acids (im assuming, it threw up something anyways.) My xenias started to wilt and the owl eye was doing bad. ( I took the owl eye out b/c it was on a last leg and xenia was first priority. ) Did water changes and managed to save one xenia, my yellow tang also died b/c of this

Now I only have one itty bitty xenia in my thirty g that has seemed to make it (barely) It hasnt grown and I'm afraid he'll never make a full recovery
.

In my 16 g, I couldnt afford nice lights then, I set up two round cheep (lizard) light fixtures with high watt compact florecent bulbs. The xenia at the time loved it.

I post some pics in a min
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:50 AM   #4
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This is my 16g when I first added the xenia, there still acclimating in this pic. I had this pic on facebook so it was easy to get, in the morning I'll post more pics (got to find the memory card) Hopefully it will have a pic of the owl eye too

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Old 07-03-2010, 12:59 AM   #5
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Glad I could help. Cool, ya RO isn't a must quite yet anyway. By the way you shouldn't have put a tang in a tank that size. Some people are gonna kill you for it lol. Just don't put a tang in your 30 gallon either please. These guys need a tank of 75 gallon preferably 6 feet long. Although they sometimes seem to do fine in a 48" long. Nice tang though.

Sorry to hear about the downfall of your 16 gallon. It seems like your 16 gallon was a pretty cool tank in it's heyday lol. Sounds like bubble algae to me. I would recommend as a light, the coralife aqualight elite (metal halide) or nova extreme (T5) this should do fine for LPS. The more bulbs the better. Also SPS need high flow in addition to high lighting. Just stick to LPS and softies for now. As for peaceful clown, you should go for Ocellaris or Clarkii. Ocellaris are the best though IMO.
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Old 07-03-2010, 01:07 AM   #6
Nawest
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Yeah the people at my local fish store have missled me a couple of times. I had that tang in my tank for 8 months though and it was very friendly and would take food out of your hand, seemed to do fine before my tank crashed. He was very small when I got him, and they told me he would be fine in the 16 gal tank. When I started doing research on my own is when I found out how unacceptable that kind of thing was. Even if he was fine I felt bad having him in there, thats when I started to try and get a 50 gal tank, had to settle for the 30. Totally understand why this would upset some people, its inhuman. Wish I had done more research, b/c its 100% my fault things didnt turn out right.

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Old 07-06-2010, 05:15 PM   #7
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My suggestions for RODI units is. AirWaterIce, BulkReefSupply or Spectrapure. This is one of those questions that has been asked a billion times here, and I always give the same response...Buy the highest GPD (gallons per day) unit you can afford. You will eventually want or need it. My current unit has 2-75 gpd membranes. All RODI units are pretty much the same, but you do get better components from the above listed suppliers and some say that they DI resin in the Spectrapure units lasts alot longer.... HTH
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:13 PM   #8
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I will disagree with Tony on his statement that all RO/DI units are pretty much the same. While outwardly they may appear the same its what the filter housings contain that make all the difference in the world.
Quality prefilters and carbon blocks are there to protect the more expensive RO membrane which does 90-98% of the work and which in turn protects the DI resin or cartridge.
Many vendors tout the word "Stages" like it really means something when in fact its not a matter of how many "stages" but what those stages contain. I can make a 3 stage system outperform a 7 "stage" system any day of the week. When shopping for a RO or RO/DI system you want 3 stages for RO only and 4 stages for RO/DI. If you havs special conditions like high sediment loads or high dissolved CO2 you might need another special stage to deal with those but its rarely needed.

Look for a system with the lowest micron rated prefilter you can afford, some go as low as 0.2 microns such as the one I own, others use a 10 micron prefilter which is slightly more effective than a screen door when it comes to protecting the more expensive carbon block which is its purpose. Two carbon blocks are not necessarily better than one, in fact two can be detrimental as it often causes increased pressure drop leading to lower GPD production and lower finsihed water quality. A single carbon block in a 1 micron or less range, 0.5 or 0.6 microns is best, is all you need for chlorine or chloramines or VOCs.
You will want at least a 75 GPD RO membrane and in the case of Dow Filmtec ypu do not want the 100GPD as it is not a RO membrane at all and is only 90% efficient versus 96-98% for their 75 GPD. In the case of Spectrapure they start with a 75 GPD Dow Filmtec then treat it with a special process then test its perfromance, either individually or in batches then they are shipped wet in a special solution to increase perfromance and lifespan. Other vendors use dry untested off teh shelf RO membranes, remember I said they may outwardly look the same but looks can be deceiving, its what is inside that counts.

You will want a ful sized 10" vertical canister type DI filter with a refillable 20 oz cartridge inside which is far superior to the small horizontal type no matter how many they stack on and call "stages". The verticals fill from the bottom up so all DI resin comes into contact with the treated water while horizontals short circuit or channel causing spotty treatment. All the vendors Tony mentioned offer vertical DI filters.

You will need a TDS meter to determine how well the system is working and when to replace the RO membrane and DI resin, a pressure gauge is also a good investment as it can tell you a lot about filter condition and system performance.

I can go on and on but there are literally hundreds of threads on RO/DI on this and many other reef forums.

A few places I would suggest looking are:
http://www.spectrapure.com/email/cus...ciation.html#1 Look at the CSP-DI

www.buckeyefieldsupply.com 75 GPD premium

www.purelyh2o.com Optima Automated is a good choice

www.melevsreef.com Marc uses GE RO membranes so the 100GPD thing does not apply, compare the 100 GPD GE to 75 GPD Dow Filmtec, they are almost identical in every way.

www.bulkreefsupply.com
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