HELP!!! I'm new

bsauer · 03-24-2006, 11:18 PM

Wow this seems like such a helpful web site. So I have a few questions if anyone would like to assist a very needy fish lover.
I have a 125 gallon marine tank, I'm getting ready to set it up, (I had it up and running about 4 years ago, but decided to put it away for a while and now I'm back). So I have been doing alot of reading to refresh my memory and it has just made me wonder what I was doing the first time.
Question 1: My lighting seems very inadequate...I have about 1 watt per gallon right now (I have two 36" twin strip hoods, w/ 2x30W actinic white & 2x30W super actinic blue). These came with the aquarium when it was purchased and now I have a VERY STUPID QUESTION: on the back of each hood the manufacturers sticker says 75 watts...does that mean per bulb or for the whole hood? I was told initially that this would be enough. But now I have read that you need alot more light in a marine only aquarium if you want to sustain your live rock(I have 195LBS). Should I invest in a better lighting system?
Question 2: I have a 200 wet/dry trickle filter with bioballs. I have read that the bioballs are not necessary with live rock, they just create more nitrate...so my question is, can I use my wet/dry as a Berlin Sump and just leave it empty, or is there something else that I should put in the place of the bioballs? I have seen people with rock in their sumps...what is that about? and does it require its own light source?
Thankyou to any and all who appreciate my inquiries. I don't have a saltwater store within 60 miles of me, so I don't get to ask those one on one questions, I just surf the web and research... research... research. So I truly appreciate any help. Thanx, Brooke

Caoineag · 03-24-2006, 11:42 PM

Umm...wow lots of questions, I will pick out ones I can answer.

You can do live rock in your sump if you would like to, no light needed and yes bio-balls tend to create a nitrate problem.

Yes you need a lot more light, even for live rock. How much more depends on what you want to keep. Check out Metal Halide, Power Compact and T-5's. Research what corals could go in and go with one of these that is appropriate for the eventual coral desired.

Caoineag · 03-24-2006, 11:44 PM

The reason people use live rock in their sump is for increased bacterial filtration. Generally not needed if you have a lot of live rock in the system already but can be done.

bsauer · 03-25-2006, 12:12 AM

Thank you for your help. the only thing I may add in this tank (other than fish) would be some low light polyps. I have a 72 gallon bow front that will house all of my coral. I have 2 250 watt MH w10K blue line. I have read that I will also need some CF along with my MH. But does that mean to run them at the same time or just before and after with the CF?
So for my MOWLR I was thinking compact fluorescents, but I'm not sure what size, type or wattage would be best for my tank size (6 feet).

Geoff · 03-25-2006, 07:17 AM

if you like the colour of the tank with the MH's only, than you do not need to add any flourescents. actinics are only for our benefit, not for the corals. i have a set of VHO's on my tank for colour correction.

G~

Caoineag · 03-25-2006, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsauer

Thank you for your help. the only thing I may add in this tank (other than fish) would be some low light polyps. I have a 72 gallon bow front that will house all of my coral. I have 2 250 watt MH w10K blue line. I have read that I will also need some CF along with my MH. But does that mean to run them at the same time or just before and after with the CF?
So for my MOWLR I was thinking compact fluorescents, but I'm not sure what size, type or wattage would be best for my tank size (6 feet).

I have power compacts on my reef and I have 4 65watt bulbs in 48", for live rock, you could do two 36" one 96watt bulb per fixture or two 96 watt bulbs per fixture (they sell them both ways and either one would work). If there is even a small chance you might like to try mushrooms or other low light corals, go with the two bulbs per fixture because then you won't have to upgrade for that.

http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...ear.asp?CartId=

Here is an example page so you know what I am talking about.

bsauer · 03-25-2006, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff

if you like the colour of the tank with the MH's only, than you do not need to add any flourescents. actinics are only for our benefit, not for the corals. i have a set of VHO's on my tank for colour correction.

G~

I'm sorry, I'm still confused. So when they suggest extra lighting in conjunction with the MH...that is really only for color correction?...or are there beneficial reasons also?

bsauer · 03-25-2006, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caoineag

I have power compacts on my reef and I have 4 65watt bulbs in 48", for live rock, you could do two 36" one 96watt bulb per fixture or two 96 watt bulbs per fixture (they sell them both ways and either one would work). If there is even a small chance you might like to try mushrooms or other low light corals, go with the two bulbs per fixture because then you won't have to upgrade for that.

http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...ear.asp?CartId=

Here is an example page so you know what I am talking about.

Thank you so much for the link. When I was trying to shop for them I got confused because there were several types: "mini PC", "PC retrofit", "PC fixtures", "PC striplights" ect...I couldn't find the info on their individual uses. Now I know what I'm looking for. THANKS AGAIN! Do yours just sit on the glass or do they require legs for set up?
I'm sure I'll go with 4 bulbs. I have read that CP doesn't degrade as quickly as the VHO. Do you have an opinion?

Caoineag · 03-25-2006, 09:54 AM

Mine sits on the frame, the link I gave you is actually very similar to mine so you won't have to worry too much about heat since they have built in fans and they have a glass covering to prevent saltwater getting on the bulbs and stuff.

Its been my experience that the bulbs hold up well. I do recommend replacing one bulb every six months so that you don't shock your critters with the sudden replacement of all your bulbs.

Example when starting out month 6 replace 1bulb, month 7, replace 1 bulb, month 8 1bulb, month 9 1 bulb, and then let every bulb age only 6 months from then on.

If you do that, you won't ever have to worry about bleaching out coral or coralline algae and it spreads out the expense.

As to the VHO never had them, but have heard that they degrade pretty quickly.

For the people who do metal halide with vho, thats not a big deal because the light from the VHO is for their benefit, not the corals. The corals get all they need from the metal halide.

Power compacts are great for low and medium light corals so as long as you don't plan on high light corals in the next year or two, I recommend power compacts. I am considering metal halides but I am not going to buy them for probably another two years. When I do, my power compact fixture will just move to my 125g so I am not wasting any money(the 125g is a low light tank).

In the meantime, I plan on lots of pretty mushroom corals

bsauer · 03-25-2006, 10:43 AM

[quote=Caoineag]
Its been my experience that the bulbs hold up well. I do recommend replacing one bulb every six months so that you don't shock your critters with the sudden replacement of all your bulbs.

Example when starting out month 6 replace 1bulb, month 7, replace 1 bulb, month 8 1bulb, month 9 1 bulb, and then let every bulb age only 6 months from then on.

Really? In my comparison research I read that PC bulbs lasted longer than VHO's and only needed to be changed every 12-18 months? Does that depend on the manufacturer or the wattage? Have you heard anything like this? Thanks

Caoineag · 03-25-2006, 07:40 PM

With just fish, changing the bulbs ever 12-18 months is really no big deal. My point about every six months has to do with corals.

All bulbs start dimishing in light capacity from day one. How often you need to replace pc bulbs is actually a small controversy amongst aquarists.

The acceptable range for corals is 6-12 months. I am just very conservative and prefer not to run the risk of shocking my corals. Its up to you how long you want to go, I am just not willing to go longer than 6 months because the steadier you keep everything in your tank, the happier your corals will be.

It was more of a note for the future for you, like I said, not an issue with fish only.

bsauer · 03-26-2006, 02:11 PM

[quote=Caoineag]
I am just very conservative and prefer not to run the risk of shocking my corals. Its up to you how long you want to go, I am just not willing to go longer than 6 months because the steadier you keep everything in your tank, the happier your corals will be.

I understand what you're saying. That sounds like something I will do. I always want to go above and beyond the requirements to make sure that my tank stays very happy and healthy.

I really appreciate all of your advice. Thankyou.

Caoineag · 03-26-2006, 05:10 PM

No prob, that's what we are all here for.

Geoff · 03-26-2006, 10:21 PM

when i say, has no benefit to the corals i am referring to the actinic spectrum. a 6.5k or 10K flourescent would help photosythetic corals.

the actinics are used to lessen the yellow that some MH's produce.

G~