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Old 09-20-2006, 01:51 PM   #1
bbehring
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54 corner bowfront - closed loop drill


Just picked up my 54 corner bowfront with the megaflow overflow (w/ 1" overflow bulkhead and 3/4" return bulk head) which I plan to use for flow to and from my sump/refugium with return with mag-drive 7. I have a HOT backpak skimmer. My inquiry is regarding having the sides (backs) of the tank drilled for a closed loop flow system. I'd like to eliminate powerheads and heat from the tanks as much as possible. I'd like to drill for (2) - 1" outflow bulkheads that will have cone screens on them, placed about 3 to 4 inches from each side of the corner overflow box. This will be plumbed with 1" pcs down to a mag drive 7 or 9.5 and the return will have a 4 way om squirt (occelating valve) split off 4 - 3/4" return pvc brances to (2) drilled holes (high and low) about 4" off both corners. I was wondering if 1. If this All Glass brand 54 tank can actuall be drilled or if anyone has done similar drillings into the back panels of this specific tank. 2. If this seems to be a good closed loop plan. 3. If the pump size for this closed loop and tank appears to be correct (mag 7 or mag 9.5)? 4. If the placement of the overflow holes and the return holes seems optimum. Also what would be the best placment locations for the side returns from the top and bottom of the tank? Thanks in advance for any insight/input.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:30 PM   #2
Geoff
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Welcome to TRT!!!



i am a little lost on the fact that you have a drilled tank, but have a HOB skimmer. do you plan on hanging the skimmer off of the sump?

i would check with All-Glass, but i am pretty sure the sides of the tank are not tempered. so drilling should be fine. are you thinking of two CLS or just one using the mag 7-9.5? if you are thinking 2 than those pumps should be fine. if you are thinking of one than you will need a bigger pump. Mags can also be pretty noisey when run externally. they are great reliable pumps, but can be a bit noisey.

i like to place my CLS inputs as high up as i can so that i can clean the screens when they get clogged. i strongly suggest not putting inlets behind LR.

i would also recommend putting at least one outlet behind the LR to power a spraybar to keep detritus from building up behind the LR.

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Old 09-21-2006, 01:22 AM   #3
bbehring
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Geoff, here's a bit more info. Sorry to confuse you/all.

The 1" overflow via the megaoverflow will feed a 20"lx10"wx18"h refugium with 5" DSB and cheato. The cheato will be lit on a 12 hr. photocycle opp main display lighting. The water from the refugium will then be pumped back to the display via a mag 5 pump through the overflow internal 3/4" return with a lockline y outlet. At this point the mag 5 could be run either internal or external. I was thinking external due to heat load back into the water.

I then plan to drill the 6 holes 2 - 1" supply and 4 - 3/4" returns for the closed loop with om squirt 4 way. I will place the 2 supplys close to the top as you recommended. How far from the top should these be? Will they such air being near the top? My waterlevel will probably be about 1/2" to 1" below the tank top. What pump would you recommend? I have purchased the mag 5 for the sump but not the pump for this piece of the puzzle.

Regarding the HOT skimmer. The unit is actually the Freedom Filter hang on unit with skimmer. I have a mag 7 pump in the unit. I purchased through a petstore owner/freind at a great price and thought I'd give it a try. I've spoken direct with the owner and committed to trying the unit.

Looks like I will be lighting with a Aquanetics 24" MH/T5 combo fixture with 175W Coralvue 10K MH and dual 24W Blue Pro actinic T5s and moonlight. Not sure if I will mount inside the canopy on a new plywood lid top or remove the top plastic lid (basically forms a hole in the canopy) and hang the fixture from the ceiling above? Also what distance above the water would you set the bottom of this fixture? What are your thoughts on the bulb temps here?
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Old 09-21-2006, 01:34 AM   #4
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Geoff, regarding the rear hole location (behind the rock) with a spray bar as you noted. Could you give me a little more info or your thoughts on this. I am intrigued by this concept. Do you have mfr of the spray bar you are thinking of? Since a corner tank would I need a spray bar on both sides? I also read a thread on another site where a air bleeder line was paced into the bottom supplies which when desired, one could open the vavle and air would rush into both these returns and blow all the detritus off the rocks etc. but this was in the front not behind.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:56 AM   #5
Geoff
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OK, much better picture of what is going on.

not a big fan of fuges, but i do suggest not going with the DSB remotely. you can keep the Chaeoto, but the remote DSB will accumulate phosphates much faster than you think and will need to be replaced quite often. it is better to just leave that area BB and siphon it out once a week during your water changes.

depending on the power of the pump it may suck air in from the surface. with 2 1" inlets this will be lessened significantly. do you have an idea on what kind of aquascaping you are thinking about doing? this may help you finguring out a good placement for your inlets/outlets.

if you do a search for spraybars, you will get quite a lot of different designs for them. they use a lot more water than you think. if you plan on incorporating one than i would easily double the flow you were thinking for the pump. you will also need to add ball valves on the non-spraybar outlets to allow more water to get to the spraybar instead of the outlets.

as far as the skimmer goes. use it, not a problem, it just seemed odd to have a HOB if you have a sump.

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Old 09-21-2006, 03:51 PM   #6
bbehring
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the gang at wetwebmedia seem to be big fans of the DSB with the cheato. can I use some live rock in the sump? I thought the DSB provided NNR? Regarding aquascaping was hoping to have about 70bls of live marshall island and deep tonga mix rock, 1/2" sand bed in bottom of display. Would like to aquascape the rock so that it does build up from the side walls to the back, stacked. I don't mind pusing the pump up a size, but was wonding if the SC40x or 50x would be too much flow for this size tank (54 gal). Don't think I can throttle back ony one of these pumps that much, can I? Regarding the spray bars would you place one behind the rock on each back panel. Also how high on the glass back, mid span? Any idea or recommendation for the spray bar? Thanks for your help and insight here.
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:50 AM   #7
bbehring
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To keep you all up to date. Decisions and purchases made thus far. I will post photos soon of equipment only. Working to get the closed loop supply & return holes drilled in the tank back panels (hopefully Thursday, if not some time next week).

Closed Loop System: Pump: PanWorld 50PXX-MD30X External Water Pump - 1110gph w/ Oceanmotion OM Super Squirt Compact 4-way. System will be plumbed with 2 - 1" supply bulkheads and 4 - 3/4" return bulkeads. 1 supply and 2 returns in each back panel.

Lighting: Sunlight SILVER Maristar 24" 1x250watt w/T5 Package w/ PFO 1Watt Extreme LED Moon Light - flat mount
Sump/refugium: 20"lx10"wx18"h. 5" DSB with Cheato with CF lighting. Pending order and receipt.

Skimmer/Filter: Freedom Flow hang on the back. Unit has built in skimmer and mag drive 7 pump. Testing this unit for the LFS and Freedom Filters. Hope to have good results in combination with the refugium and high flow closed loop. This will also provide another 500 gph turnover to the tank, plus raw water skim/filter. I can also place carbon or poly filter media inside if needed. This seems to be a very highly crafted, compact unit. Can't wait to give a whirl. I have left room in my sump, just incase this unit does not pan out and I need to add a separate skimmer
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ball valve , closed loop system , flow box , hob skimmer , poly filter , remote dsb , spray bars
 
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