Kordon Ich Attack - FNG

[Neuticle]

I've been using Kordon Ich Attack for two weeks now at 200%+ the daily recommended dosage, the bottle recommends this for "severe" infections.

Fish are looking worse, but still alive. All Ich Attack does is free your wallet of a money infection, $15 per 16oz lasts only 4 days at my dosing rate. To it's credit, my anemone is fine as are my snails, plants, corals and hermits.

Quarantine tank was set up two weeks ago, then took down on hopes this miracle cure would work, but it doesn't. Fish are getting hypo and eventually copper for a minimum of 40 days of QT, which I could have started two weeks ago...

[Kyuss]

I had good luck with it, cured ICH in one week and did not have a relapse but that does not mean anything.

[vstastny]

I just tride this stuff at the regular dose and my 2 infected fish died after the first night, one of my cleaner shrimp died and I am still looking around if it has killed anything else. I guess the only thing it didnt kill was my corals but i had to do a signifigant water change so I could try and keep the rest of my shrimp and fish alive.
I do NOT reccomend anyone to use this stuff, like you said, Its good for cleaning out your wallet of that pesky cash build up.

[Dragonist]

I recommend getting a skunk cleaner shrimp.http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...696&pcatid=696

@ the lps i goto all the time and well experince reef keeper takes care of fish when u have the rich guys buy in bulk like all the lr fish and stuff the two tangs the guy bought got ich(they just came in that day) he threw a cleaner shrimp in with it they were squeakie clean of ich just a couple of dots on the fins.

[crvz]

well there's little confidence that cleaner shrimp will actually eradicate ich. Better to follow more hands-on methods of treatment if you're really suffering from it. In any case, Neuticle's post is about 6 months old, so I hope some solution was found by now.

[jenglish]

Originally Posted by crvz

well there's little confidence that cleaner shrimp will actually eradicate ich. Better to follow more hands-on methods of treatment if you're really suffering from it. In any case, Neuticle's post is about 6 months old, so I hope some solution was found by now.

Posts I read from researchers of ich (mainly Lee Birch) state that biological controls cannot even get to the ich. Best case scenario if they can... it is after the ich has done the damage for that cycle and it would only have to miss one for the cycle to continue. I think they do a good job of quickly making a fish look better. They may help lower secondary infections, but are far from a cure.

[Hop]

Ahhh another ich safe treatment

[Mr.Peanut]

My Clown is about ready to move from Q/T to the main tank. After that, I am buying my next fish. If it shows Ich while in Q/T, I am gonna try a reef safe ich treatment just to see what happens.

[Dragonist]

I've been dosing tank w/ a reef safe remedy...i need to find the bottle and adv of the name !

[Jnicho]

I don't mean to be the skeptic here....but I've never seen a reef safe Ich treatment... IME they come in two forms...those that work and are not safe for inverts...and those that don't kill inverts but don't work!

[Dragonist]

...lol the same thing i used for my coral beauty is what the thread is about...he never fell to hard breathing or stop eating...i fed him formual 2 (could be the garlic in it)w/ occasional dwarft angel food and his constant grazing...but he is alive and looking like he should...a BEAUTY!

[McLoki]

It worked well for me in my 180 reef. Did not do much until I dosed exactly what was directed but 2 times per day (every 12 hours) rather than one - and turned off my skimmer. Tank has been ich free for 2 months now. (dosed for about 2.5 weeks at that level)

I would certainly use it again.

Michael

[Atv023]

Agreed with some of the other posters on this thread. If you are adding supplements or chemicals to your closed ecosystem, not the most brilliant of ideas.

The Ich parasite is present in every aquarium. Every single one. Your problem is the water quality. You water quality is so poor that the fish cannot fight off the parasites. I would recommend some heavy cleaning of all the detrius and massive water changes. Probably 25% at a time, but do it a few times at few day intervals. So maybe every 2 or 3 days do a 25% water change, do it at least 2 or 3 times. Don't try and do too much percentage wise at once, it is too much of a shock for your already sick fish. If the fish are real sick, maybe 15% every day or two instead, till you get to 50 to 60%.

The only additives I put in my tank are salt and water. If you are frequent on your water changes, and use quality salt, your nutrient levels will always be where they should. I have a 75 gallon, and I do 5 gallons every 4 or 5 days. If I am doing a heavy cleaning the most I change out is 10 gallons at one time. Which is about 12% in my system. 5 gallons is around 6% for me.

I dont use the premixed saltwater from the LFS. I mix my own with RO/DI filtered water. Think about all the fish dying in the LFS, then think the water they all died in is the water your putting in your tank. Food for thought.

Ich is always present though, its a common misconception.

[Mr.Peanut]

[quote=Atv023;1545595]The Ich parasite is present in every aquarium. Every single one. Your problem is the water quality. You water quality is so poor that the fish cannot fight off the parasites.
[quote]

I am sorry to disagree with you, but I have to. The idea that every tank has Ich is wrong. My fish and my aquarium are 100% ich free. Nothing will trigger an outbreak other than adding a fish that is infected.

[Atv023]

You are entitled to your opinion and I respect it, but ask WWM and Dr. Fenner specifically. You might have a different opinion than you once thought true. If you introduced Ich in your system through LFS fish, live rock, and everything else, than they are still there.

As an example of my own, when my water quality starts getting poor, my fish develop Fin Rot and Ich white spots on fins and body. My dottybacks gills get very red, and his color starts disintegrating. Now if they are fine most of the time, but develop these symptoms sometime, it would lead you to believe the parasites are always there. Don't you think?

In that regard, my creatures are the best indicators of how my system is doing. If they start developing fin rot and ich, I know its time for a good cleaning and big water change. After I do that, the fin rot and Ich spots disappear within 24 hours.