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Old 03-22-2008, 10:12 AM   #31
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Bad news, the frag is badly bleached out and I've moved it down to the floor of the tank in a shaded position. The polyp extension is poor as well. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but it doesn't look good.
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:45 PM   #32
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That stinks. I have always kept mine in the top area of the tank. At one point I had a few frags that were 4-5 inches from the surface & the colors were awesome and I run 20K 400W

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Old 03-22-2008, 03:52 PM   #33
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Now are you sure it's getting bleached because of TOO much lighting? With T-5's I couldn't see it burning the coral or causing it to bleach high up in the tank, and moving it lower may only cause further problems?
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Old 03-22-2008, 10:13 PM   #34
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Sorry to hear you are having trouble with it Hoang, I hope you are able to get it sorted out soon and the colors come back in full.
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Old 03-27-2008, 01:22 PM   #35
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Now are you sure it's getting bleached because of TOO much lighting? With T-5's I couldn't see it burning the coral or causing it to bleach high up in the tank, and moving it lower may only cause further problems?
T5 par levels can be just as high or higher than MH, a 6 bulb tek fixture with 4 blue bulbs and 2 day bulbs gets PAR readings over 1000 at the surface.

Back to the coral, I put mine in the middle of my tank and it also got bleached, I moved it down to the bottom and it has staretd to slowly color back up, it has been very slow in recovering but is doing ok so keep your hopes up
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:11 AM   #36
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There are several varieties of "supeman" montipora - some require intense lighting and others do not. Apparantly, I've got the one that does not! The frag is still hanging in there.

Joker - T5HO's put out a heck of a lot more light than most people give them credit for. As jrpdriver pointed out, the PAR readings are very intense, especially if you are overdriving the bulbs. This has been one of those "problems" that people have had with sps and T5's. Unlike halides, T5's are not a point source of light, meaning that intense light will reach the coral from all sides and angles. That's great for bigger colonies that may get shaded by growth on top, but it's also tough on frags that have no shade at all. You also don't get varying light levels by moving a coral out from directly underneath the bulb (in a T5 system, the PAR doesn't decrease by simply moving a coral a few inches to one side). Additionally, halides have the benefit of "shimmer" lines which not only intensify the light, but it also provides temporary decreases in light levels for corals. T5's don't have the shimmer - it's just strong lights constantly. One other issue I'm having is with the bare bottom method which produces "cleaner" water which allows for even more light to penetrate the water. Adjustments include decreasing the photoperiod and feeding more heavily - both of which, I'm working on.
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:00 PM   #37
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Glad to hear the frag is still hanging in there for you Hoang. Hopefully you will get everything sorted out with it soon.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:22 PM   #38
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hope it does better lower hoang. i had a superman digitata that bleached and died from too much light(i think), thats why when i got the monti i placed it lower in the tank. a week or so ago i moved mine up about 3" to a spot that i liked better, it seems to still be doing ok im just waiting for it to spread on the rock. really hope it turns around for ya.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:25 PM   #39
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I got a rainbow monti a few weeks ago that is also bleaching out mid level in a t5 bb tank...

it's been moved to the bottom... lets hope they both recover!
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:43 PM   #40
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Good luck to your coral too Amy. My little frag is hanging in there but not looking very good. At least he's not looking any worse this week.
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Old 04-18-2008, 01:31 PM   #41
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Yeah, I had one up high in the tank and colors were "ok", but never grew. I moved it down some and it seems to be much better.

The sunset that I have seems to love being higher, growth is apparent over the last month and the colors are great....I need to take pics...
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Old 04-18-2008, 02:32 PM   #42
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Good luck to your coral too Amy. My little frag is hanging in there but not looking very good. At least he's not looking any worse this week.
thanks - and I would agree mine is no worse, but not a whole lot better either

I also agree that my sunset is diggin higher light.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:26 AM   #43
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high itensity light to intense light dffanitly mh in a 90 nothing less than 250w mh right on top of it
wow its the MH bandwagon. I used MH once and sold the fixture within two month. It was the worst investment ever. You get just as good growth if not better with a high quality ballast, t-5, and each bulb having its own reflector. Some day everyone will realize this. The manufactures are. pc production will begin to be fazed out this year and every major manufactor will decrease MH fixture production this year.
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:51 AM   #44
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i wish i could find a peice of superman monti

not a hard piece to aquire i have plenty of real tyree SM. mine is a fast grower along w/ my sunset as well. they are about 6"-8" beneath a 150 watt mh right now.

i think many are misinformed about T5 lighting. they are not at all what they once were, even without overdriving them a good quality individual reflector and a good bubl will give = to or > par than its MH equivalent. my 72" aquactinics constellation that has 14 39 watt bulbs. and i cannot leave the white part of the bulbs on but a few hours a day or it will bleach coral. mh is hard pressed to do that at 400 watts.
i run individual miro IV reflectors. w/ a 3/1 ratio of blue and white bulbs.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:57 AM   #45
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i wish i could find a peice of superman monti

not a hard piece to aquire i have plenty of real tyree SM. mine is a fast grower along w/ my sunset as well. they are about 6"-8" beneath a 150 watt mh right now.

i think many are misinformed about T5 lighting. they are not at all what they once were, even without overdriving them a good quality individual reflector and a good bubl will give = to or > par than its MH equivalent. my 72" aquactinics constellation that has 14 39 watt bulbs. and i cannot leave the white part of the bulbs on but a few hours a day or it will bleach coral. mh is hard pressed to do that at 400 watts.
i run individual miro IV reflectors. w/ a 3/1 ratio of blue and white bulbs.
This is what I am talking about. At some point people will realize they do not have to run street lights over top of their tank.
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